why are my axle joints binding

[big83chevy4x4]

on my k20 when i go to turn in 4wd it bounces like crazy. when i put it in 2wd it does the same thing (with hubs locked) on my k10 it only did it in 4wd and when i threw it in 2wd it stoped.

both trucks have almost the exact same everything,
350,700r4,208 on both and the k20 has 10bf and 14sf with gov loc, the k10 had 10bf and 10br.

is the gov loc doing it? even if im stuck and tires spinning i turn the wheels like 3/4 turn of wheel from lock and it starts binding. do i need new wheel joints or what is the deal. i dont want to break something that can be prevented

 

[pauly383]

I'd be careful , don't know much about 14bsf gov-loc but you just described my truck when my gov-loc blew up. Every once in awhile prior to breaking I'd turn and steering felt funny. Well after gov-loc popped I didn't know it until I git home. Thought it was my steering as it turning was like you said. Well I have gravel yard and once in yard I noticed my axles locked solid in rear ( splined discs stuck in spiders). I would pull your cover and check your rearend, before it breaks and you lose a c-clip!! Anyone who drives a locked rear on the street chime in on this , hows your steering feel? /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[big83chevy4x4]

well then its probably time to find a 14bff with detroit and 3.42 gears

 

[az-k5]

The 14SF gov-loc is just as quirky as the 10B & 12B.

 

[pauly383]

I have been thinking of taking pictures of my broken diff and starting a post for pics of broken gov-locs /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif The broken pieces of mine also sheared the crosshaft bolt clean off and it was a miracle I was able to drive off the road, onto a flatbed and off, and around my yard for a week. I think they only break only if not serviced , but I will never run another to find out. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[big83chevy4x4]

even thought it is a gov loc i love the added traction over open ecpecially in a plow truck /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[pauly383]

I may be wrong but factory ratios for the 14bff start at 3.73:1 , which will give you a little better leverage anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[big83chevy4x4]

ill probably go that way and rear gear the front. hopefully i can make it last the winter

 

[Beast388]

[ QUOTE ]
I may be wrong but factory ratios for the 14bff start at 3.73:1 , which will give you a little better leverage anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

3.21's are the numerically lowest OEM ratio for the 14BFF....AFAIK. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

 

[pauly383]

[ QUOTE ]
3.21's are the numerically lowest OEM ratio for the 14BFF....AFAIK.

[/ QUOTE ]

Wasn't sure , until I bought my K5(k10) all I cared about was GM A-Bodies , now those I know nearly everything on. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

[ QUOTE ]
The 14SF gov-loc is just as quirky as the 10B & 12B.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah but nowhere near as weak. I have hammered mine for over two years without issues. I'm going to a FF here VERY soon with Detroit.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

is it doing whats its doing because of the gov loc though or is it anthing else?

 

[imiceman44]

[ QUOTE ]
is it doing whats its doing because of the gov loc though or is it anthing else?

[/ QUOTE ]

Well one way to find out.
Jack up the front, have it in 2wd hubs locked, wheel turned and try and turn the tires, if you have oposition and get the same feel, then it's the axle U joints going dry.
If not then pop open you rear cover and check.
I would check the easy one in the front first though.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[big83chevy4x4]

ok ill try that tommorrow, do i need the additive for a gov loc? i think i do but not sure

 

[imiceman44]

[ QUOTE ]
ok ill try that tommorrow, do i need the additive for a gov loc? i think i do but not sure

[/ QUOTE ]

No additives for the goc lock, no clutches in it.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif