why can't I steer. [drop pitman arm]

[metalneverdies]

Ok, I'm out of ideas on why I can steer WAY further to the right than the left. I didn't change the wheel position or anything else between stock and my 4" lift and drop pitman arm. I lined up the splined section perfectly.

Reference pics are all from drivers side fender

 

[YZEATER]

You need a raised steering arm. The should be a slight angle on the drag link , not the major angle.

For a quick temporary fix you can adjust your current drag link, make it longer.

 

[metalneverdies]

You need a raised steering arm. The should be a slight angle on the drag link , not the major angle.

For a quick temporary fix you can adjust your current drag link, make it longer.

So even with a 4" drop pitman arm I need a raised arm in addition? That seems a bit overboard.

 

[sweetk30]

drop pitman does 2"-3" lift only.

more than that needs raised are NOT the drop pitman arm .

and do not try and use both at same time with only 4" lift.

 

[metalneverdies]

drop pitman does 2"-3" lift only.

more than that needs raised are NOT the drop pitman arm .

and do not try and use both at same time with only 4" lift.

I can't believe ord would suggest the drop pitman arm with their 4 inch lift if there is issues.

Maybe because my springs still need to settle 3/4" still.

 

[sweetk30]

if you ever talked or planed on dana 60 swap then maybe that's why . as drop pitman are would still be used .

but yes it will work and its just not the 4" you need .

also the taller you get with push/pull steering the worse it gets . that's why 4" or more is best to do crossover if you want 100% steering .

lifting it gets the angles and travel all messed up even with correction parts its still not back to 100% range of motion of stock hight and setup .

also as said have you played with the adjustment of the drag link for best range of motion ?

 

[metalneverdies]

if you ever talked or planed on dana 60 swap then maybe that's why . as drop pitman are would still be used .

but yes it will work and its just not the 4" you need .

also the taller you get with push/pull steering the worse it gets . that's why 4" or more is best to do crossover if you want 100% steering .

lifting it gets the angles and travel all messed up even with correction parts its still not back to 100% range of motion of stock hight and setup .

also as said have you played with the adjustment of the drag link for best range of motion ?

I have not played with the length yet. I was so focused on getting the wheel straight when driving straight ahead.

Guess ill be going cross over sooner than planned.

 

[cyclic]

Take off the link, center the steering wheel. Turn the wheel left and right counting the turns, and the place it right in the middle of its travel. If the steering wheel doesn't match up, pull it and place it centered.

At that point make sure the drop arm is perpendicular to the frame. If not pull it and make it parallel to the axle/perpendicular to the frame. Finally point the wheels straight forward. THEN and only then, connect and adjust the steering linkage.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I have not played with the length yet. I was so focused on getting the wheel straight when driving straight ahead.

Guess ill be going cross over sooner than planned.

You need to adjust the draglink so the steering wheel is straight, that will get you lock-to-lock turning (on the street anyway).

 

[Kain]

You need a raised steering arm. The should be a slight angle on the drag link , not the major angle.

For a quick temporary fix you can adjust your current drag link, make it longer.

anyone got a pic of this?

 

[metalneverdies]

You need to adjust the draglink so the steering wheel is straight, that will get you lock-to-lock turning (on the street anyway).

thanks chris.