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Why did I do this.......

Questions for you gentleman.....

Did I screw up getting a steering arm rather than a dropped pitman arm. The more I research the more I see a pitman arm reducing bumpsteer problems.

With that should I look at replacing my tierods and draglink to help eliminate the potential of having bumpsteer or any other problems when this thing is back on the road?

Any suggestions on a good steering stabilizer?
 
I don't know of any reason why the steering arm won't work for you, vs a dropped pitman arm.
And just check the tie rod ends for play, then replace if necessary.
 
Over the years I have seen 3 cases (2 different GM and one Dodge RamCharger = same Saginaw steering box) where the output shaft on the steering gear was cracked or broken completely because of dropped pitman arm under hard flex but yet not a single story about a broken gear box output shaft with a raised steering arm. I wouldn't doubt there is a correlation to broken frames near the steering gear there somewhere too. I am a huge fan of raised steering arms over drop pitmans and I honestly haven’t noticed any more or less bump steer with either. The problem is the installing a raised steering arm can be a lot more challenging than installing a drop pitman arm as those cone washers on a D44 or Corp 10 bolt can be a sumbish to get off in order to replace the steering arm. I have two almost technically identical squarebodies and one has bump steer (Suburban) and the other doesn’t (K10). Both have the same lift and raised steering arms with stock pitman arms.
 
So I finally got the damn pins in the perches and now I got this..........


This is the front pass side, is this bad???

image.jpg
 
It looks to me like the heads of the spring center pins are too big to drop into the holes on the axle pads. I have seen that a time or 2!
I have pulled the center bolts back out, then put it in a drill to spin it against the grinder wheel.
Or see if you can find the correct center bolts for the axle.
My last resort would be to drill the axle pad holes. I don't know why that is my last choice...
 
good to know the bolts in the spring can be taken out. Oh well , guess it comes apart again , thanks
 
Put a C clamp next on the spring before you take the bolt out. That way all of the leaves stay in alignment.
Vise Grips hold the head to twist the nut off. And if you break one, no worries.
I have found them at NAPA.
( but I can also go to Alcan!)
:D
 
So the bolts were just out of wack a little, ehhh?
Good deal!
 
Well I have 2 things left, bleed the front driver side brake and reconnect my drive shaft to my axle, and now my drive shaft does t reach.

I disconnect the drive shaft because I was having trouble matching up the pins on the rear leafs, now the damn drive shaft doesn't reach. I haven't read of anyone else having this problem so does this mean I have to take it all apart again????

IMG_1516.JPG

IMG_1517.JPG
 
The axle is where it will be. As long as it's bolted in good, you might need that drive shaft lengthen

Check the rear as well

Guys I recommend:
Front range driveline
Rocky Mountain drive line

Don't use Bills...
 
Yeah, and ask whoever is going to do the driveline how to measure. They will want it measured a specific way, more than likely with the slip in the trans and measuring between the two.
 
GMC5.3 said:
Well I have 2 things left, bleed the front driver side brake and reconnect my drive shaft to my axle, and now my drive shaft does t reach.

I disconnect the drive shaft because I was having trouble matching up the pins on the rear leafs, now the damn drive shaft doesn't reach. I haven't read of anyone else having this problem so does this mean I have to take it all apart again????

View attachment 224688

View attachment 224689
Click to expand...

Is the driveshaft extended fully? It should be able to grow and shrink as you pull and push on it. Should not be locked into a single length, that's what the slip yoke is for. If you overextend it, the driveshaft should fall out on the T-case end of things.
 
Wait wait wait

Slip shaft?
or
Tail cone slip, where it slips into the transfercase?

Don't let it come out of the t-case, you will have fluid everywhere
 
This the rear end driveshaft, I have no clue how to measure for a new one but I guess that's what YouTube is for, I've got this far.

I did not know the two pieces seperate, if that's the case maybe I should of pulled a little harder because it does extend back and forth
 
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