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Why did I do this.......
- Thread starter GMC5.3
- Start date
My O'Reilly's caries the Spicer's.
Special request?
A lot of store brand and knock off stuff is questionable. I've never had an issue with spicers
Nope. In stock. If not, the main store in the springs will have them. That store can actually be called a speed shop.
Adding length is usually more expensive to address on a driveshaft than shortening. It usually requires them to retube and set the length that way vs shortening where all they do is cut it down. Talk to the guys at front range they can tell you what they are going to need to do once you get the measurements.
Spicer is the top dog in the driveline industry. It's worth the extra coin. My shaft that front range built has all spicer joints in it.
I'll say again, I'd check the driveline angles out prior to doing any shaft work. If your angles are far enough out you might only be able to fix the problem by adding a CV joint to the shaft. You don't need to send the shaft out twice to get fixed if you don't need to.
Spicer is the top dog in the driveline industry. It's worth the extra coin. My shaft that front range built has all spicer joints in it.
I'll say again, I'd check the driveline angles out prior to doing any shaft work. If your angles are far enough out you might only be able to fix the problem by adding a CV joint to the shaft. You don't need to send the shaft out twice to get fixed if you don't need to.
I second the CV, always
And instead of measuring the shaft, just pull it out so it's connected at both ends and scribe the splines a little. Then you will have an exact template to take to the shop.
And instead of measuring the shaft, just pull it out so it's connected at both ends and scribe the splines a little. Then you will have an exact template to take to the shop.
datmony
Registered Member
With that much lift I would highly recommend just calling Tom Woods and having a CV shaft made for it as the folks above are noting. They are not cheap but I worry for you that you will go to the expense of lengthening the existing shaft and still have vibration. You are then going to end up having spend 1/2-2/3rds the amount of a new driveshaft only to still end up needing a CV to make it drive correctly without vibration. Resell your stock one to someone that needs a cheap replacement and help buffer a little of the cost.
Having been through much of what you are experiencing many years ago on a CJ7 I was building, I feel for you. Take pride though..... you are teaching yourself a TON of useful skills that you will carry forward. In a couple years you will be laughing at this scenario.....
Having been through much of what you are experiencing many years ago on a CJ7 I was building, I feel for you. Take pride though..... you are teaching yourself a TON of useful skills that you will carry forward. In a couple years you will be laughing at this scenario.....
I definitely appreciate the info as always, if that's the safer and long term route then I'm all for it, I downloaded the app listed above to help me try and measure my angles when it's back down off jack stands. I'll probably post some more annoying pictures to help my understanding.
I can't wait for that day of being able to look back and laugh cause right now I feel like that annoying little brother that asks to many questions
I can't wait for that day of being able to look back and laugh cause right now I feel like that annoying little brother that asks to many questions
Nope, you'll laugh at how little you know and can't believe you were about to spend eight hundred flocking dollars to do the job. 
How does anybody learn this stuff? It's just another form of education. You got to start somewhere. Kudo's for taking it on!
datmony
Registered Member
Go to home depot and pick up:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-Magnetic-Angle-Locator-700/100161689
They are sub fifteen bucks and invaluable. I still use the cheap one that I bought a decade ago. I used it to design the entire drivetrain layout on my cj7 build so that I could set the motor/tranny/transfer case degree to what the engineers designed (put a 2002 stroked 4.0 in a cj with an nv4500, custom skid, ford 9" and set to the drivetrain orientation that jeep used on the tj).
I now have two for a whopping 30 bucks so I can view pinion angle relative to drive shaft angle relative to engine/tranny/tcase etc.
To truly do this correctly there are some things you will want to do. First is figure out the driveshaft style you are going to go with as it will define the pinion angle you want to set. If you want to try to go with a stock style driveshaft and not a cv, you'll likely end up with a pinion angled more upward. You can accomplish that either by using shims (little angled blocks) or you can cut off the perches and reweld. The thing to think about there is once you tip that pinion up too far, the ring gear doesn't lubricate the pinion bearing as well and you can smoke the pinion bearing. With the lift you are running, this is definitely something you want to think about. Burned up rear ends suck.
If you go with a cv driveshaft, your pinion can be at a more normal (what the engineers wanted for oiling the pinion bearing) angle. Likely you won't need shims or less of a shim/reweld of the perches.
Both are legitimate approaches, both have their tradeoffs. Complexity/cost/skill set, tool access/etc.
A good thing with these trucks is that these concerns are not as extreme as they are in short wheel base vehicles like the jeeps I have cut my teeth on (long wheelbases increase drivetrain lengths, reduce angles etc). That however doesn't mean you shouldn't design things well. Especially when you are going to be rolling with the family it is always better in my view to do it right the first time. I have been down the path far too many times of buying what I thought would be enough (often knowing what I should really do) and then be disappointed and spending double or more.
To the others points..... Don't get discouraged and just think on the progress you have made already.... You are getting there and getting there relatively quick. When I first started building 4x4s.... I didn't have the tools or the knowledge to get done what I had in my minds eye. I went to shops. I spent thousands. I have over the years thrown away everything they did. It was short sighted, ill informed and in many instances a straight up death trap. The undertaking you are doing here will pay for itself in spades. You will very likely find you made some errors..... They can be fixed as they show themselves, don't stress out. Just be patient and thoughtful on what you do and I would advise to not cut corners. I have seen as an example people that have allowed drivetrain vibration and rolled with it. In just a few thousand miles instead of needing just a driveshaft they needed to rebuild the rear end, needed to rebuild the transfer case, etc because they frankly rattled it apart.
Keep asking questions, folks here will guide you.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-Magnetic-Angle-Locator-700/100161689
They are sub fifteen bucks and invaluable. I still use the cheap one that I bought a decade ago. I used it to design the entire drivetrain layout on my cj7 build so that I could set the motor/tranny/transfer case degree to what the engineers designed (put a 2002 stroked 4.0 in a cj with an nv4500, custom skid, ford 9" and set to the drivetrain orientation that jeep used on the tj).
I now have two for a whopping 30 bucks so I can view pinion angle relative to drive shaft angle relative to engine/tranny/tcase etc.
To truly do this correctly there are some things you will want to do. First is figure out the driveshaft style you are going to go with as it will define the pinion angle you want to set. If you want to try to go with a stock style driveshaft and not a cv, you'll likely end up with a pinion angled more upward. You can accomplish that either by using shims (little angled blocks) or you can cut off the perches and reweld. The thing to think about there is once you tip that pinion up too far, the ring gear doesn't lubricate the pinion bearing as well and you can smoke the pinion bearing. With the lift you are running, this is definitely something you want to think about. Burned up rear ends suck.
If you go with a cv driveshaft, your pinion can be at a more normal (what the engineers wanted for oiling the pinion bearing) angle. Likely you won't need shims or less of a shim/reweld of the perches.
Both are legitimate approaches, both have their tradeoffs. Complexity/cost/skill set, tool access/etc.
A good thing with these trucks is that these concerns are not as extreme as they are in short wheel base vehicles like the jeeps I have cut my teeth on (long wheelbases increase drivetrain lengths, reduce angles etc). That however doesn't mean you shouldn't design things well. Especially when you are going to be rolling with the family it is always better in my view to do it right the first time. I have been down the path far too many times of buying what I thought would be enough (often knowing what I should really do) and then be disappointed and spending double or more.
To the others points..... Don't get discouraged and just think on the progress you have made already.... You are getting there and getting there relatively quick. When I first started building 4x4s.... I didn't have the tools or the knowledge to get done what I had in my minds eye. I went to shops. I spent thousands. I have over the years thrown away everything they did. It was short sighted, ill informed and in many instances a straight up death trap. The undertaking you are doing here will pay for itself in spades. You will very likely find you made some errors..... They can be fixed as they show themselves, don't stress out. Just be patient and thoughtful on what you do and I would advise to not cut corners. I have seen as an example people that have allowed drivetrain vibration and rolled with it. In just a few thousand miles instead of needing just a driveshaft they needed to rebuild the rear end, needed to rebuild the transfer case, etc because they frankly rattled it apart.
Keep asking questions, folks here will guide you.
Latest update.
I finally got to call the front range driveline and was told to measure from center yoke to center yoke and take the driveshaft and the yoke from the transfer case down.
Question I have and I will ask when I drop this stuff off, I checked my angles with the TREMEC Tool box app off my phone, but if my angles are not correct prior to measuring, won't that effect my upgraded driveshaft once my angles are correct?
I brought up angles to Bill and he said more than likely the rear end will need shims
I finally got to call the front range driveline and was told to measure from center yoke to center yoke and take the driveshaft and the yoke from the transfer case down.
Question I have and I will ask when I drop this stuff off, I checked my angles with the TREMEC Tool box app off my phone, but if my angles are not correct prior to measuring, won't that effect my upgraded driveshaft once my angles are correct?
I brought up angles to Bill and he said more than likely the rear end will need shims
Depends how out of whack the pinion angle is
I was taught to set the centerline of the pinion pointed directly at the t case U joint, but down about 1-2*
I use a 4' level or a string line to best guesstimate that
If you have a drive shaft that will bolt up but is not ok for use, you can check the angle between the driveline and the drive yoke on the pinion
I was taught to set the centerline of the pinion pointed directly at the t case U joint, but down about 1-2*
I use a 4' level or a string line to best guesstimate that
If you have a drive shaft that will bolt up but is not ok for use, you can check the angle between the driveline and the drive yoke on the pinion
I don't unfortunately, i just left front range and my to do list still remains.
Measure my leaf spring for either a 2 or 3 degree shim
Install the shim and re measure the distance from bolt hole of the rear end yoke to the threaded end of the transfer case because I already removed and left my transfer case yoke at front range.
And last take the seal from the transfer case so they can order a new one.
At this point I just wanna tow the blazer around with me so I can ensure the angles and measurements are correct so I won't be costing myself more money in the long run
Well almost a month later I'm finally nearing the end. The plan is to get it installed tomorrow night after I get some oil for the transfer case which leads me to my next question.
When I pulled the yoke out of the transfer case fluid came out so I figured I may as well drain and change it.
I've never done this before but have researched and seems pretty straight forward as far as bottom plug drain and top plug fill till it starts to come out.
Only question is what do I use gear oil?
When I pulled the yoke out of the transfer case fluid came out so I figured I may as well drain and change it.
I've never done this before but have researched and seems pretty straight forward as far as bottom plug drain and top plug fill till it starts to come out.
Only question is what do I use gear oil?
Which T-case do you have?
