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Why did I do this.......

bent72 said:
Hey this is how the rest of us learned, so i classify them as doable.

On a related side note, my place of employment routed me down Tower Rd today. I saw no smoke and heard no profanity, so I took that as good news?
Did you burn down the Blazer yet?
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Haha I'm of 56th and tower so if you see anything on 9 news tomorrow night at ten about car fires then it's me. I don't have a chance to work on it tonight, I only get about 3 to 4 hours a night to freeze in the garage.
 
I leave a week from tomorrow. Gone for 10 days. Seeing my mom in Lake Havasu and picking my boat up to bring home.
 
bent72 said:
As was mentioned, the thread side of the bolt away from the frame will help.

Second, ive been known to grab the lip on the spring hanger with a pipe wrench. Just a bit of torque can open it up enough for that bushing to come down.
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I had to do this with mine and if you can't get enough torque then use a leverage bar on the end of the pipe wrench or smack it with a big hammer. But the metal does bend fairly easy if you have enough ballast like me.
 
Not sure if this has been resolved or not but it looks like your bolt on top is contacting the frame. Flipping it around might help the issue as others have mentioned but then again I'm not 100 % sure how the factory bolts are installed.
 
Little update, springs are in and attached now I just gotta put the new shocks in and attach the drive shaft back then tires can go on.


I started to look at the front u bolts that I have, does this look correct? I have 1 that is larger than the other 3

IMG_1435.JPG

IMG_1436.JPG
 
One of the front ones will nornally loop arond part of the pumpkin so its going to be a bit longer but it looks like on the other set you have two different thicknesses and I couldn't honestly say if that is right or wrong...
 
Might just be the angle of the camera on that last part of my comment though.
 
I just checked the thickness and they are all the same, just have that longer ubolt, I just wanted a second opinion in case I had to order new front u bolts
 
Be prepared if the u bolts splay out some the spring plate sometimes doesn't slip on, I use a big giant pair of channellocks to squeeze the ends together just to get the plate started then it'll slide on. Also disconnect your anti sway bar from the axle before you try bolting up the axle to the spring. Makes it a lot easier to line up the u bolts.
 
no sway bar on 1st gens. Front d44 yes those u-bolts are correct. Like said, one side settles up on the diff the other is around the axle tube.

Answer to the original question. Because knowing your ride is a great feeling. O - and I don't trust shops like 4-wheel to treat my baby like I would.
 
GMC5.3 said:
I just checked the thickness and they are all the same, just have that longer ubolt, I just wanted a second opinion in case I had to order new front u bolts
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Should be ok. Making good progress, almost got it licked
 
I feel like I conquered the world, and I've only got the rears done, only down side is I had to disconnect the drive shaft from the rear end to get the leaf springs in the perches. So I'm hoping that won't take me two weeks to get back in.

I appreciate all the comments guys

IMG_1440.JPG
 
I let you know if I ever get rid of them, 14's may be a bit too much, too many ideas running through my head, I want the stuffed look but then having 17 or 18" rims can look good as well
 
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