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Why do I have no turning radius?

Tie-rod goes from knuckle to knuckle. The draglink goes from the sector shaft to the steering arm
Now THAT clarifies a thing or two.
Do you guys think a dropped pitman arm would solve the issue or atleast be heading in the right direction. I'm looking around right now for a set of knuckles to use for crossover. What would I have to look for to match Dana for Dana to swap my gears over to the axle with the appropriate knuckles?
 
tierod is knuckle to knuckle. drag ling is from the box to the steering arm.

first, set the wheels straight, then disconnect the draglink from the axle. center the steering wheel by checking to make sure the pitarm arm is perpendicular to the frame. then adjust the draglink to join them ( pitman arm and steering arm together).
Perpendicular...pointing straight back? Mine was pointing straight out the driver's side.
 
perpendicular- means intersecting. it should stick straight out, away from the frame.
 
perpendicular- means intersecting. it should stick straight out, away from the frame.
Guess I should have Goodle'd that so I didn't look retarded. Some words you don't use often enough to remember their actual meaning.

Anyhow, I disconnected the draglink from the pitman arm and centered the wheel (by turning the steering wheel all the way left, then all the way right and splitting the two) and the pitman arm was perpendicular. Still no bueno. I may check it again today or this weekend. I'm probably just gonna swap out the ends first so I'm not wasting my time. Can anyone tell me before I check myself, is the pitman arm cast or can it be bent down slightly to accomodate?
ORD and DIY4X the best places to look for dropped pitman arms?
 
Look at this draglink, it has a 4" drop. Goggle GDL40 for a better pic of how dropped it really is.
GDL40_4.jpg
 
you can get a dropped pitman arm from most anywhere. summit should have them too. when you steering wheel was straight out from the frame, were the wheels pointing straight forward?

i don't think the dropped pitman arm is your problem though. you want the draglink at a slight angle, just like yours is. if you go with a dropped one, it'll be too much. i would not try bending it either.


how are the all the bushing in the front springs and shackles, including the frame?
 
I've never seen a dropped pitman arm for a 4WD steering box (not saying they don't exist, i've just never seen one), they are all over the place for people doing crossover steering and using the 2WD steering box though.
 
you can get a dropped pitman arm from most anywhere. summit should have them too. when you steering wheel was straight out from the frame, were the wheels pointing straight forward?

i don't think the dropped pitman arm is your problem though. you want the draglink at a slight angle, just like yours is. if you go with a dropped one, it'll be too much. i would not try bending it either.


how are the all the bushing in the front springs and shackles, including the frame?
Bushings look brand new. The Superlift springs with bushings were put in late '07. The frame looks good. I think the DL ends were binding really bad. I noticed it spun when I tried tightening it after adjusting the length, but for whatever reason (it was late) I didn't check to see how smooth the joint moved. I just went out and tore the whole draglink out and their both shot. The holes are elongated, there's grease, but the movement sucks. I'm picking up a set of Moog ends and a new sleeve here in a bit....we'll see how that does.
How perpendicular to the frame does the pitman arm really need to be? It's cocked back about 10degrees from perfect....is is really worth bushing out the pullers?:thinking:
 
How perpendicular to the frame does the pitman arm really need to be? It's cocked back about 10degrees from perfect....is is really worth bushing out the pullers?:thinking:[/quote]

??? pullers for what?

it should create a 90 degree angle. just make it that then make sure your wheels are straight, then adjust the draglink till both holes line up.
 
How perpendicular to the frame does the pitman arm really need to be? It's cocked back about 10degrees from perfect....is is really worth bushing out the pullers?:thinking:

??? pullers for what?

it should create a 90 degree angle. just make it that then make sure your wheels are straight, then adjust the draglink till both holes line up.[/quote]
Figured I need pullers to get the pitman arm off. Will do though!

Okay, so the axle mounted steering arm appears to be about a 4". At the very bottom of the suggested website above, it says that I should have a 2" drop pitman and a 4" drop draglink. I think I'm just gonna replace the endlinks now and use a dropped pitman when I go higher. Yeah?

I'll be picking that up today so I'll let you all know what comes of it.

Thanks again for everyone's help, you guys are awesome. Little more local and I'd buy you all some beers (almost said y'all - damn, rednecks rubbin' off on me!).
 
Make certain the wheels are dead straight.
unlock steering column
Center the box exaclty like you did before
leave steering column unlocked
install one end of the new drag link
adjust other end until it drops into the hole in the steering arm
turn adjuster sleeve until the steering wheel is completely straight.
cinch adjuster bolts on the sleeve.

You should have equal turning radiius left and right now, and with the sloppy joints gone it should turn a bit sharper too.

Rene
 
Make certain the wheels are dead straight.
unlock steering column
Center the box exaclty like you did before
leave steering column unlocked
install one end of the new drag link
adjust other end until it drops into the hole in the steering arm
turn adjuster sleeve until the steering wheel is completely straight.
cinch adjuster bolts on the sleeve.

You should have equal turning radiius left and right now, and with the sloppy joints gone it should turn a bit sharper too.

Rene
Verbatim. Just got back in from installing it and it looks like it did the job. Definitely feels like the wheels are turning exactly the same amount and it looks like they're turning further now too. I'm gonna take it out for a drive when the wife gets home...wish me luck and thanks again!:bow:
 
Results were good. Turns pretty good minus the whining from the power steering and working out the flat spots in the tires.
What would cause the truck to raise a little when turning while sitting still? Seems like I may need to turn the draglink sleeve a turn or two...ya think?
Also, while inspecting the centerlink I noticed that the driver's side end looks like one piece with the whole link and the pass. side has a sleeve and a typical endlink. Or is it a press-in/screw-in type balljoint?



Thanks again everyone.
 
it's normal to move the body up when trying to turn. the drag link is at a slight angle.

on the tie rod, one side is all 1 piece and the other is just a normal tie rod end. you could find another YEAR tie rod, and it would have screw in end links and a hollow tube.
 
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it's normal to move the body up when trying to turn. the drag link is at a slight angle.

on the tie rod, one side is all 1 piece and the other is just a normal tie rod end. you could find another reay tie rod, and it would have screw in end links and a hollow tube.
Is that a typo? I did a search just in case but found nothing. I was thinking of just getting some 1-1/4" DOM and having the ends tapped.
 
Any angle on the drag link will create that 'lifting' you are seeing. The more force it's able to deflect by lifting the less turning effort you get. This gets way worse when off road, specifically when the drivers side is drooped and passenger side is stuffed. if you have somewhat flexy suspension you can end up with the drag link 'vertical' enough when crossed up that you will have no steering input at all.

This is the main reason to go to cross over steering.

Do a search for Rock Rods...that should get you plenty of info on heavier aftermarket tie rods.

found a link...

http://coloradok5.com/rockrod.shtml

Rene
 
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