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Why is it I always have issues? Fun with factory rivits!

jjlaughner

jjlaughner

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Went out today to work on the frame and I tried the air hammer method of removing the factory rivits and its not working for me. SO, I grind off the tips of the rivits and begin drilling them out.... the drill bit BREAKS! Soooo, I grab the grinder and grind the heads of the inside of the frame rails and start hammering away with a punch........... STILL not wanting to come out!

How am I going to get the rivets out of the bottom of the bracket and the bushing cup? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I got all but one spring eye bolt out and I got my echobit flips put on (I flipped sides so the mounting bolt is towards the rear and the 56's with the shackle flip fit pretty well /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif Have to see how it does with weight on it and if it flatens out. If so, then I'll swap sides back and make some longer shackles. I got plunty of pics on the camera and will have those up tonight. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I've had pretty good luck doing it this way:

<ul type="square"> [*]Centerpunch the rivet as close to center as possible. [*]Drill a small hole (perhaps 1/8th of an inch) about 1/4 of an inch into the rivet head. [*]Using a drill bit that is slightly larger than the head of the rivet, drill into the rivet until the head is gone. [*]Use a drift and hammer to smack the rest of the rivet out. [/list]
 
My dad taight me something similar, except less drilling.

Centerpunch rivet, drill into it as mentioned.

Run another drill into it, a bit bigger.

Take a cold chisel, and chisel the head off.

This is what I did for my front crossmember. If you can't get a drill on it, you're fun is just beginning. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Obviously the more meat you take out with a drill the easier chiseling is, but it should be quicker than drilling the entire shank of the rivet out.
 
Drill the rivit head with and then use a chisel head on an air hammer and shear the head of the rivit off. The put the punch attachment on the the airhammer and knock the rivit out the back of the frame...I have used this method for about 16 of the factory rivits and have only broken 1 drill bit and it works well each time..


Chris
 
Werll breaks over I'm headed back out!
Thanks for the info /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
As I've posted before, this is the easiest way I've found.

<ul type="square">
[*]Grind slot in rivet head. Make it look like a flat head screw, and grind almost to the base part.
[*]Use air hammer with chisel to "fold" sides into slot. They will pop right off.
[*]Use air hammer with punch to drive out remaining rivet.
[/list]
If you can't get a grinder to it, you can use a drill as suggested earlier, or you can just let the chisel wail on it for a bit. I can't even remember the last time I got out a drill for a rivet…

[Edit] One more thing. A newer "punch" will tend to drive into some tighter rivets, especially those holding 3 layers or bound and locked in place. This spreads the rivets even more making it very tough to get out. I took a broken "can opener" chisel, cut it off, and made a broad tipped "punch" that does not drive into the rivet. Basically, make it look like the regular punch, but with a 1/4" flat tip. Works much better.
 
I like to grind off all of the head on one side and air hammer them back out. No drilling at all. Better yet, if they are on something that I don't intend to keep such as the rear crossmember for the gas tank I will fire up the torch, cut the head off on the crossmember side of the frame using the crossmember to shield the frame of any cutting. Once that is done punch them out. Much faster than any other method I have ever tried. Just make sure there are no flammables (gas tank) nearby of course.
 
You guys have entirely too many tools at your disposal. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I can get access to these tools, but by the time I realize they would make the job much easier, I'm already too far into it to take the vehicle to their place.

I have to agree with these guys. If you have the tools to do some quick grinding and cutting, their methods are probably easier and quicker. If you don't have all the tools they do, you are kind of stuck with the drill and chisel methods.
 
nothing gives you a better workout than using a 3/4"x8" cold chisel and a BFH. My friends and I did 90% of our 52" front spring swaps this way. If you trust your friend, let him swing the hammer while you hold the chisel. About 10 whacks at it and it is gone /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

To make punching them out easier, take your cold chisel to the other side of the rivet. Work it loose with a couple of taps where the rivet meets the frame or attached part. That will make punching them out much easier. I have seen very few air hammers that were good enough to make quick work of a rivet.
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you trust your friend, let him swing the hammer while you hold the chisel.

[/ QUOTE ]


That reminds me of that movie, Dennis the Menace, when they were building the tree house and one of them drives the nail with one swing while the other holds the nail till an instant before the hammer strike. LMFAO... /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
If you trust your friend, let him swing the hammer while you hold the chisel.

[/ QUOTE ]


That reminds me of that movie, Dennis the Menace, when they were building the tree house and one of them drives the nail with one swing while the other holds the nail till an instant before the hammer strike. LMFAO... /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif hahaahaha thats what I was thinking. I dont trust anyone enough to do that.

I ended up using a center punch and making a starter hole then use a 17/32 bit (bout the only small one I got left, all the others broke). Drilled out the center and popped the head off with the air hammer. I think I'm about due to change the oil in all these air tools hard to tell when the last time was and they are all getting a little weak.

Now all I have left to do today is get this last spring eye bolt out and mount up my other 56" spring, then I'll start measuring and marking out my plans for dropping the front mount down a couple inches and making a new lower crossmember.... speaking of I need to get my bumper swapped over /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Buy yourself and air hammer with a good chisel and punch bit and you will have it done in no time. I had every rivet on the back half of my K30's frame off in not much more than an hour, and anyone that has ever worked on a K30 knows there are a TON of rivets.
 
DCP_9741.jpg
BEFORE

AFTER
DCP_9767.jpg


Thanks for all the ideas, I used most of them just to try out different ways. Some of the places I coulded use the grinder I got to with a long drill bit.
 
I just use the torch. It can make a bit of a mess if you are not careful, but it is a hell of alot quicker and less work!
 
i completely removed my front hangers/body mounts on Wednesday. i had no problems whatsoever. of course, this was probably thanks to my new friend. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
rl910a.jpg


its a Matco RL910A Redline Long Barrel air hammer. by far one of the baddest tools in either of my toolboxes, next to my RL1325 air saw.
 
You'll probably delete my post for suggesting this--but I watched a guy at the boneyard remove rivets with a all steel camping hatchet and a 5 lb hammer--he simply put the hatchet between the mount and the frame(not the rivet head)and after 4 or 5 mighty blows with the BFH the rivet was sheared--he had a set of cab mounts off in less than ten minites! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I know this is dangerous--dont try it at home unless you wear a full face sheild!! I was amazed at how well this crude method worked--and it hardly bent up the cab mounts only slightly,a litte tapping bent it right back!.I prefer torches--they get into tight places,no mashed fingers,and best of all,hardly any work! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifIt sucks when a glowing rivet head drops down your shirt though! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
My chicago pneumatics air hammer with chisel makes short work of rivets without grinding or drilling. It is the long barrel style and cost me about $50. Oh yeah, it's made in the usa too.

It's not as nice as the one above, but it has a lot of power due to the long barrel and it will get the job done.
 
My IR short barrel also work ok without grinding. Biggest problem I have using only the air-hammer/chisel is that it tends to chew up the braket or frame under the rivet if you can't get the blade flat enough (which is often the case).
 
I haven't noticed any issues, but the only rivets I can remember knocking out were the front spring hanger ones.
 
TORCH!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I torched the heads and blew them through the frame and took a nice big sledge to the brackets - they pop right off! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

The rivets are softer material than your frame, so when heating them the rivet will blow out before you cut into the frame if you do it right.
 
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