Will my fix keep the frame from cracking at the steering box? (pic)

[benchseat4speed]

I welded a piece of 3/8" diamond plate in between the front frame horns on my 77 to make it very strong. It's welded on all 3 sides, however I was not able to weld the last three or four inches on the drivers side nearest the crossmember. (because it curves in right there and I wouldn't be able to get the plate in if I cut it to fit that contour)

Will this by itself hold the frame solid enough to keep it from cracking, or is a brace necessary? Thanks, Kevin

 

[walla2k5]

Dunno,since it isn't directly behind the steering box,only time will tell.

 

[mouse]

It definitely adds rigidity to the front of the frame and will do so around the steering box as well. It should help. While you have it in that condition, drop the box and inspect the frame closely for cracks. Now is a good time to weld them up if you need to.

 

[jolane]

It definitely adds rigidity to the front of the frame and will do so around the steering box as well. It should help. While you have it in that condition, drop the box and inspect the frame closely for cracks. Now is a good time to weld them up if you need to.

2X on this. NOW is the time to weld up a regular brace in there. I just did mine in a full bodied "stock" burb, and it was a pain having the work under the fender, around the inner fender, etc...

 

[roadnotca]

2X on this. NOW is the time to weld up a regular brace in there. I just did mine in a full bodied "stock" burb, and it was a pain having the work under the fender, around the inner fender, etc...

X3. Now is the time to weld-in the shaped plate from the brace kit, the double thickness at the bolt holes alone, will go a long ways to keep the frame from tearing.
Otherwise, thats one hello of a frame brace. Might as well weld the crossmembers up there too. If you check, you might find the rivets are probably loose.

 

[tin man]

You might want to take the time and weld in a kit. It will only cost about 65 bucks. It will be so much easier to weld in without anything in the way. That way you won't have to wonder if it will crack. With the kit, and your work that you already have in there, it should never crack.

 

[benchseat4speed]

homemade brace pic

Well I finally pulled the engine this weekend to seal it up and put a clutch in. That gave me plenty of room to brace the frame on the inside too.

The frame looked good, no cracks yet. So what I did was cut a 4"x6" triangle (the long side is on the frame rail, short side is on the crossmember) out of the same 3/8" diamond plate that I used in front. I welded it in yesterday and burned it really good so it ain't goin anywhere. Now, will this be strong enough to keep it from cracking? It looks plenty strong to me, what do you guys think? Thanks, Kevin

Oh yeah, I've been using 7018 rod on everything I've welded.

 

[jolane]

No idea on whether that would help or not. My guess, it will help a little, but probably not as much as a bolt in steering brace would have. I guess the bolt in brace is out of the question though. The bolt in brace reinforces the bolt locations themselves.

I guess it will be a try it and see sort of thing.
Joshua

 

[benchseat4speed]

No idea on whether that would help or not. My guess, it will help a little, but probably not as much as a bolt in steering brace would have. I guess the bolt in brace is out of the question though. The bolt in brace reinforces the bolt locations themselves.

I guess it will be a try it and see sort of thing.
Joshua

I was under the impression that the frame would flex and crack under high load conditions, just becuase there wasn't much there to keep it from flexing. Thats why I triangulated it on both sides. I sure hope the braces I put in serve the purpose. DoI have to worry about tearing the bolt holes out too?Thanks Joshua. Kevin

 

[Cricket]

Chevy steering is push-pull so all the stress is at the box mounts. Cracks usually develop at the bolt holes.

 

[jolane]

Chevy steering is push-pull so all the stress is at the box mounts. Cracks usually develop at the bolt holes.

Yeah, what he said. The weld in braces cover the holes and effectively add another "layer" of support to the bolt holes (and therefore the steering box mounting locations). You can think about it like this: The force is transmitted to the frame through the bolts. The force is then distributed throughout the frame from the bolts to the surrounds steel. The highest load is at the bolt holes.

This is why the bolt-in brace is so effective, it directly opposes the loads where they are the highest.

I am not sure whether the cracking problem is one of overstressing (yield strength surpassed) or fatigue (repeated loading and unloading with sub-yield strength). It is probably a combination of the two, and a large force finally breaks the fatigued metal.

If I was in your position, I would (actually I already have) put a weld-in kit in while it is still apart and call that good. I also have a bolt in brace. If it was my truck, in all honesty, I would also add the bolt-in brace and cut your gusset as required to make it fit. Again, this would be my plan of action, what you have might be just fine also...no guarantee either way.

Joshua