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will these tires work

pplblazerdude

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 18, 2002
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Location
Kingsport, Tennessee
i have a stock 88 k-5 and was wondering if 33,s would work with out any gear work or lift. And also do 15 10's stick out much on a blazer with no back spacing.
 
33's on 10, will need at least 2" lift and alittle fender trim. 33's on stock 8" may fit no lift, with minor fender trim.
 
255/85R16's (33" or so) fit on my 1-ton with not rubbing or trimming. Maybe its cuz they're so skinny (9" or so).

There is the 33x9.50 for a 15" rim. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I have 33 X 12.50 on mine, and I had to trim the fenders just to get them to turn stop to stop. I just trimmed off the inside of the fender so that you can't see it from the outside. I works for going down the road, but they rub if you hit a incline with the wheel turned. I forgot to mention that I have 10 X 15 rims also, so it would be the same set up your looking at. I bought the add-a-leafs from pro comp to solve the problem, but haven't had the time to install them yet. The back will fit fine, its just the front that is the problem. Hope this helps with your decision.
 
33's fit some rigs with no clearance issues, and rub on others.

I've got 33x10.5R15's (BFG AT/KO's) on my truck, and I have no lift and stock wheels.

It's my opinion that short of old saggy leaf springs, 33's *will* fit, (with stock wheels, an important point) as long as they are narrower than the more common 33x12.5's that you see.

And as to the gear issue, check your glove box for the SPID sticker. Codes starting with "G" (sometimes a number then "G") are axle related, and will tell you what gears you have. If you don't have 3.42's or 3.73's or a manual transmission, 33's are ridiculous, and are downright dangerous to the 4 speed automatic.
 
My fresh 32x11.5's on factory rims rubbed and I had new poly bushings and 1" body lift (about 2-2.25" of total body lift). I dont think you would make 33's with factory body bushings and no lift. I could be wrong though... J
 
I've got them on mine, and I don't rub "wheeling", have NEVER rubbed in any situation, and I've tried. Even used a floor jack to get the tires as far into the wheelwell as possible.

33x10.5R15

http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/TablePics/front33.jpg

http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/TablePics/rear33.jpg

Thats with a LOT of rear sag, probably about 2-3" less rear tire clearance than stock, before I put the add-a-leaves in the rear. They definitely make the wheelwells look more in proportion.
 
The front you definatly have more room than I do but I think I got you beat for clearance in the rear and my truck sits pretty level, little to no raise from front to rear (sits almost exaclty level with a full tank).
septpassside.jpg

septdrback.jpg

desertsteel.jpg
 
I don't disagree with 32x11.5's being a good tire size, I just figured the 33's gave *me* what I wanted: no clearance issues, slightly taller (more ground clearance) better mileage, and better performance in shallow puddles, mud, and snow, vs. wider tires.

You look like you've got some room in the rear, but I'm betting my springs will still hit the bumpstops before the rear tire hits the body. Unlike Dodge, Chev didn't feel the need to have gaping rear wheel wells with dinky tires, our trucks just have a lot of room hidden under the sheetmetal. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

We are probably pretty close in the rear looks wise, bottom of my trailer hitch (looks like same hitch as yours) is 16" off the ground, and the axle housing center sections are 8" from the ground.
 
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