Will this remote solenoid work?

[EdPDX]

Uh OH, hold the phone. The copper lead that comes out of the starter motor will run away if not secured? Or are you all worried that the end of this lead once connected to a 2g battery cable will wobble around and eventually short against the starter case?

I could JB Weld a brass coupler on the starter housing, then attach the Starter motor tab with a bolt/lock washer to one side and the HOT lead from the Ford solenoid to the other end of the coupler with a bolt/lock washer. Semi permanent and secure.

 

[Fordum]

Well, if it runs away, let me know. I'll get my shotgun and we'll hunt that sucker down.......

Mostly worried about flexing causing the copper lead to break, or touching something.
If your starter looks like that pic, its slightly different from the last one I worked on.
The one I worked on just had a short square tab coming out of the starter directly below the place it mounts on the solenoid, and was just long enough to reach.
If you have that much to work with, its going to be easier.

Your idea for a coupling sounds OK, but I would put something besides starter paint and JB weld between the coupling and the steel housing. Maybe glue or clamp a piece of heavy plastic on the starter first.

Make sure that the coupling is as short as possible. Brass conducts pretty good, but not as good as copper.

 

[EdPDX]

FORDUM, thanks for the feedback. My starter motor Tab is a long pigtail. In the neighborhood of 4 inches with a zinc plated tab. What I think I'll try is to simply overlap the battery cable lug with it and run a short nut/bolt/star washer set through them and cover the section with this heavy duty 3/4" MILSPEC shrink tube. It is NOT going to wear. I may end up running a zip tie around it locking it to the end of the starter motor. That should be enough. I'll see if I can get some pics later.

 

[EdPDX]

After hooking the starter up with the ford solenoid in-line, I could not get the motor to start. The solenoid seemed to be getting juice; but the starter motor was not turning. Having replaced all the battery cabled, the starter relay and having load tested all the batteries, I decided to have another look at the starter gear. I gingerly removed the aluminum cover to find that the starter gear was stuck in the Flexplate gear. I loosened the starter bolts and the starter gear retracted on it's own. When I originally mounted the starter(s), the paperclip seemed to move easily between the teeth of the two gears. So after months of complaining of starter issues, it looks as if the ^&*% thing just needed shimming. I had already removed the cable setup that included the Ford Starter Solenoid; but when weather improves, I believe I will introduce it back into the circuitry.

As far as the brass/copper lead that goes to the starter motor is concerned: It comes out of the starter motor fairly sturdy. 3-4 inches long; so I put a standard 3/8" lug on the cable that goes to it and ran a short bolt with two strr washers and a nut to clamp the ends together. Then I soldered the leads together and finally covered the splice with Milspec 3/4" shrink tubing. To remove this, all I have to do is unbolt it and point the MAPP torch toward it.

I'll update when I make the swap.

Cheers