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winch idea

Kain

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I have an idea for mounting a winch behind the bumper and I thought I would run it by you guys and get your opinion on it.I have a bunch of questions that concern me for safety.

The front spring perch has two rivets that hold it to the frame. I want to replace them with bolts will that take out too much strength? I know ill have to move the cylinoid away from it but the winch will fit between the frame rails.I plan on using this plate by
chassisunlimited to mount it. I thought about welding it in for strength.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/181810776680?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The pic below is where im talking about the rivets that are there. Thats not the only thing holding it in just want to know if it will be sound when i do it.and not throw the spring off the darn thing and cause a mess.

CAM01349.jpg

CAM01352.jpg
 
The plan is to put a winch behind the stock bumper by bolting a winch cradle to the bottom of the frame rails? Since that rivet is in the way of having a flat rail to bolt against, you want to remove it, then run one of the plate mounting bolts through this hole? I don't think replacing the rivet with a bolt is a problem as long as you can keep it tight. You might put a spacer or something to get a little more thread length and be sure to use locking fasteners.

If the plate is bolted to the bottom of the frame and the winch in between the frame rails, then it's pretty much boxed in, right? How will you access the lever?
 
If the plate is bolted to the bottom of the frame and the winch in between the frame rails said:
have the hole for the fairlead and then a hole to access the clutch lever as bent 72 suggested in his thread up there and i like how he mounted his
 
@Kain

Moving our pm conversation here for the benefit of whomever uses the search button

For underneath protection image.jpeg
That is 3/8" plate x 6". Welded to the frame horns and the front spring mounts (I'm on 52s, hangers are moved forward 4")
I bought all the steel from a supply shop. Wasn't very expensive to buy a 72" long piece. I got two of those, 2x 4" square by 72" tube, three different thicknesses of 24" square sheets, and several .120" thickness strap width chunks under $200
 
These were the 2 winches we were discussing

The first being the 9500. 160:1 gearing, so it's faster, with 5/16" cable

image.png
 
This is the one I went with.
218:1, it is noticeably slower. Never have regretted more oats on a winch.
Waterproof with 3/8" cable

I made longer leads to remote locate the control box inside the engine compartment using auto store battery cables

image.png
 
I was just wondering if it's easier to mount the plate to the top of the frame instead of the bottom. That rivet problem would go away (maybe there's another one on top?) and it seems flatter.
 
I was just wondering if it's easier to mount the plate to the top of the frame instead of the bottom. That rivet problem would go away (maybe there's another one on top?) and it seems flatter.
See post #8

:D
 
When you do an old school 56 front leaf spring conversion, you grind off all the front spring hanger rivits and swap the hangers to the opposite side, then bolt them back on. My old jimmy was done this way and I never had an issue with the bolts or spring hangers..and those front springs got a work out
 
I mounted my winch just like your idea.

I had to notch the radiator core support to make it fit.
 
i have to wait to afford the winch im going to get all the smalls that i need then save for 2 months and get the one i want
 
i have to wait to afford the winch im going to get all the smalls that i need then save for 2 months and get the one i want
Look around for another iron supplier too.
 

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