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Winch Wiring - Tricks?

nvrenuf

nvrenuf

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The time is coming to hook up my winch and I'm curious to see if anyone has any neat connectors, etc? I have a dual post battery and my regular cables have top post ends, I'm wanting to hook the winch to the side post terminals but the winch cables just have the typical copper lugs but I'm willing to change them.
 
Although my winch is currently hooked to my side post battery, I've heard that the side posts can not handle as much current as the top posts. I plan to rewire when I get a new battery.
 
85 Jimmy said:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OSS0/01391.oap?pt=N0365&ppt=C0061


The one on the right is what I used to hook up my winch to the battery.
Click to expand...


I would recommend against this. Really, i would avoid your side post connections all together, if you can. Get some good marine/military top post terminal connectors, that you can connect everything to.

My boat has these, and they rock
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Military-Terminal-Positive-Negative/dp/B001QRTZR0

Mainly because the bolt where everything stacks can accommodate a lot of things.

Keep your connections clean, put dielectric grease between the stacked ring terminals, and you should be good to go for a while. Really, you shouldn't have too many stacked, or you need some sort of a distribution block. I can think of: starter wire, alt wire, main body harness, and winch. Maybe a stereo power wire or 2. All smaller wires should be hooked to some sort of a distribution block on the firewall.
 
I would suggest you buy the adapters that will turn the side post into a top post and hook your trucks battery cables to those and use the much beefier top post for the winch. A starter can draw alot of current but only for a few seconds at a time unlike a winch that will be drawing a fair amount of current for god knows how long. :deal:
 
4X4HIGH said:
I would suggest you buy the adapters that will turn the side post into a top post and hook your trucks battery cables to those and use the much beefier top post for the winch. A starter can draw alot of current but only for a few seconds at a time unlike a winch that will be drawing a fair amount of current for god knows how long. :deal:
Click to expand...


Was curious as to your opinion. Think thats better than running everything top post?
 
dhcomp said:
Was curious as to your opinion. Think thats better than running everything top post?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you're understanding what I mean. I'm talking about moving the factory battery cables to the side post (have to use adapters or change the cables to side post style) and using the top post for the winch and any other accessories.
 
Last edited:
Scott is correct, move the factory battery hook-ups to the side posts and hook the winch up to the top posts. A battery cannot handle the amp draw a winch produces. What I did is I've always used a dual top post battery (like a marine battery). Normal post for the starting system on your rig, and the small threaded bolt for the winch.
 
Well, way back when, when I was helping build winches, we did not have all the fancy stuff available today.
Plus, everything was top post.
We usually used a heavy ring terminal, the solder on type, and put it under the clamp nut for the battery clamp.

Today, I would use something like what dhcomp suggested, or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Raptor-RGBTU-P-Positive-Universal-Terminal/dp/B0032AMWLK/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3

Which I found on the same page as what he recommended.

Right at the tail end of my main winch life, we started hitting side terminal batteries a lot.
Our solution for that, was to cut away the insulation of the positive cable, screw a bolt with a nut already on it through the winch ring terminal and the positive wire, until it bottomed out in the side terminal.
Then back it off a half turn or so, hold it with a wrench, and tighten the nut down to press everything against the side terminal.

Again, better stuff available now.

But, if you ever do the bolt trick, either to hook up a winch, or as an emergency fix on the trail, DO NOT let the bolt stay bottomed out in the terminal as you tighten the nut.

The back side of that hole is soft and thin. If the bolt is bottomed out, and it gets turned slightly more while you are tightening the nut, it will either push out or crack and let acid start eating the bolt.

No problem for a little while, but sooner or later.......
 
Use wal mart batteries. When they die, go get a new one.:D
 
4X4HIGH said:
I would suggest you buy the adapters that will turn the side post into a top post and hook your trucks battery cables to those and use the much beefier top post for the winch. A starter can draw alot of current but only for a few seconds at a time unlike a winch that will be drawing a fair amount of current for god knows how long. :deal:
Click to expand...

This is how mine is set up. Works great!
 
I was thinking about this post again. My problem is... I don't have any top posts on my battery. It's a pretty large wal-mart battery. My only option would be to purchase the adapters.

What is everyone's opinion on wiring an in-cab switch only for my used winch? The 8274 I got didn't come with the remote or the remote receptacle. Since winching is usually a two person job, I think an in-cab switch on its own will be ok. THe remote and receptacle are pretty expensive items on the warn site.

Another option I was thinking of was making my own remote switch.
 
Muddytazz said:
... A battery cannot handle the amp draw a winch produces....
Click to expand...

Really?? :thinking: I certainly hope it does, because nothing else in my electrical system can come up with the 300 or so amps needed for winching...

BTW, I have a dual-post yellow top as the main battery - winch connected to the top posts, everything else at the side posts.
 
garydan said:
I was thinking about this post again. My problem is... I don't have any top posts on my battery. It's a pretty large wal-mart battery. My only option would be to purchase the adapters.

What is everyone's opinion on wiring an in-cab switch only for my used winch? The 8274 I got didn't come with the remote or the remote receptacle. Since winching is usually a two person job, I think an in-cab switch on its own will be ok. THe remote and receptacle are pretty expensive items on the warn site.

Another option I was thinking of was making my own remote switch.
Click to expand...

I only have an incab switch. Never needed it for anything other than winching a cucv on a trailer.
 
Every winch I ever had, and everyone I ever installed except for the last one, had in cab switches.
Remote switches are actually a kinda new thing relatively speaking.

As for building an remote switch, its pretty much a nobrainer. Just get a heavy duty spring loaded SPDT switch with center off, some 3 conductor wire, and a connection.

I would find me a marine supply house for the connection. They have some that has a waterproof cap that screws down over the socket, then the plug locks down using the same threads when you plug it in.

Wire it up, make sure it works like you want, then grab some epoxy or castable rubber compound, make a mold, cardboard or heavy foil will do, and embed the switch in it.

But, leave the incab switch hooked up too. Its handy when you are pulling someone else out, you don't have to drag the remote out.

Also, a switch under the hood, or in the grill, that can be locked out from the cab to keep curious fingers out of trouble, makes winding up the cable much easier when you are by yourself.
 
jms said:
Really?? :thinking: I certainly hope it does, because nothing else in my electrical system can come up with the 300 or so amps needed for winching...

BTW, I have a dual-post yellow top as the main battery - winch connected to the top posts, everything else at the side posts.
Click to expand...

I think he meant to say a SIDE POST battery cannot handle the amp draw of a winch (not a large enough contact area). Jeff used to work for Warn so i'm sure he knows the ins and outs of winches (no pun intended) and what is needed.
 
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