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windshield cleaner on tv show ? ? ?

sweetk30

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recently I seen a powerblock / car crazy / other show and they advertised a new windshield cleaner for dirty buildup windshields .

I can find it online or remember the name brand .

anyone recall it ?

its a buff on/off hard core cleaner for buildup of road grime and water minerals .

I got a truck with bad build up and need to clean it .
 
NO not the cheep as seen on tv sale crap .

it was name brand and just a new product. only reason I tried to rember it as it was name brand :D
 
recently I seen a powerblock / car crazy / other show and they advertised a new windshield cleaner for dirty buildup windshields .

I can find it online or remember the name brand .

anyone recall it ?

its a buff on/off hard core cleaner for buildup of road grime and water minerals .

I got a truck with bad build up and need to clean it .

buffer and compound/finesse it... nothing will polish/clean a windshield better...
 
easy peezy.. just borrow/buy a cheap wheel if easy.. it's not voodoo, you can do it..

it was more just a general post to the masses really... miracle/snake chemicals are often not the best choice..
 
What type compound? I have a 2 scrathes in glass where old owner let wipers rub and would be willing to trying this out if it might work. Just curious steps YOU use. Brandon
 
I have used "Bon-Ami" cleanser on old grunged up auto windows with good results (by hand,not with a buffing wheel)...some ammonia mixed in will help get the film off faster...once I tried using toothpaste with a buffing wheel to remove some windsheild wiper streaks from a windsheild,it seemed to work,but the glass cracked on me when I bore down too hard of the buffing wheel ,or I had it going too fast...:doah:
 
obviously it depends on how deep the scratches are...

unlike paint, etc, glass is stoopid hard... compounds range from most aggressive being orange lacquer compound, 3M super duty being the most common, to finer white clearcoat compounds.. ...

it's always best to try the least aggressive approach first, white clearcoat compound.. if that fails, orange lacquer, if they don't come out with that, than it will require actually wetsanding.. usually, that involves 600 grit wetsand, 1000, 1200, than orange compound and finesse it..

sanding glass is relatively extreme, but I've actually gotten 80 grit DA scratches from a stoopid body guy out of glass.. but as I said, glass isn't like a paintjob, it's ridiculously hard and everything is a slow process...

if any of the compounds work, you want to follow it up with a polish like finesse it, to remove the heavy cut/swirls from the compound..
 
but the glass cracked on me when I bore down too hard of the buffing wheel ,or I had it going too fast...:doah:


that never should have happened, we did dozens in the resto/collision shop days and never had a window crack... speed only creates heat, which is generally not an issue for glass as it creates minimal compared to paint, etc......
 
Figured it was a late night infomercial........

Don't think I have seen that one.

Be warned, though. All windshields for the past many years have a thin layer of mylar on the inside to contain glass fragments and stop heads from going through in case of an unbelted passenger in a wreak.

This is very easily scratched with a rough surface, and I don't think a scratch could be buffed out afterward.
 
that's buried many mils under the outer surface...
 
that's buried many mils under the outer surface...

Maybe so these days, but not for a long time.
Note: I slightly mistyped. I said it was to contain the glass shards. The windshield has a goo between the two panes that does that. Probably what you are thinking of.

But, several years ago, they started bonding a super thin mylar sheet on the outside of the glass on the inside of the car.

I have reread that sentence a couple of times, its right, just does not sound right......

Anyway, I found that out the hard way. I took my father's Lincoln into a big carwash.
Got the full package.
The order taker wrote an "A" on the inside of the windshield with a grease pencil to indicate what treatment it was to get.

Afterward, there was a faint outline of the letter scratched into the windshield.
It was low enough down, and faint enough my father never noticed it. I could not figure out how a grease pencil, even with some dust stuck to it could scratch glass.
Went to a local glass shop down the street from my work, and they told me about the mylar.

Of course, they may not do it anymore. That was about 1998-2000.

Now you have me wondering. I'm renting a building to a company that replaces windshields among other car stuff, and its time for rent.

I'll ask and get back.
 
yeah, I'm talking 70's and 80's stuff.... I have no idea what they've done to windshield tech since the early 90's..

could be weasel jizz in em for all I know now...
 
Not all windshields, only certain cars. Ford/Linc/Merc were definitely on the list of cars using them. It was short lived 90s technology because of seat belt laws coming into play and airbag systems being improved. Now, if your head even comes in contact with the windshield then you've done something seriously wrong.

You can tell one of those windshields by looking at them, they have a pinkish hue to them as opposed to the normal blue/green hue that normal glass has (not including the tinted strip at the top).
 
that never should have happened, we did dozens in the resto/collision shop days and never had a window crack... speed only creates heat, which is generally not an issue for glass as it creates minimal compared to paint, etc......

It could have been the windshield was comprimised already by a hidden chip under the moulding or the wiper streaks made a weak area,a body shop worker I knew told me I probably had the buffing wheel going too fast and used too much pressure,which would make a hot spot in the glass and maybe cause it to crack..:confused:

At any rate,the windshield was pretty much due for replacement anyway,it was all milky around the edges a good 2-3" and between that and the wiper streaks and pitting from thousands of miles of road grit,it was no good really--I just called my insurance company and told them it broke somehow overnight,and it was covered under my comprehensive coverage...

The Bon-Ami works good on old faded paint on vehicles covered with grunge from being parked under trees or exposed to soot and pollution too...but I used it with a rag by hand,not with a buffer...
 
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