Wiring 3 wire alternator

[85mudblazin]

Thanks for the info guys, ill figure it out tomorrow......err today

 

[hack500]

the white wire (#1) of the plug is for a dummy light is optional. the red 12V+ (#2)is what 'senses' whether the alternator needs to produce addition amperage/voltage to maintain a charged battery.

Also, this happens internally, with the generator operating the same voltage appears at both the "BAT" and No. 1 terminals, and the indicator lamp goes out to indicate the generator is producing voltage

 

[pauly383]

I simplified mine , nothing goes to the starter except the trigger wire and battery cable . I have the alternator bat terminal to battery , the gauge wire to the gauge , and the other wire to the junction which goes to the battery . Been working since I replaced the alternator in 2002

 

[RootBreaker]

are you doing the pontiac trans sport alt upgrade?
I got all the parts but couldnt get it to work.... later this summer I will be re-looking into this... I even bought the 3 wire plug from advanced auto and couldnt get it to work.. then I bought the 2 wire to 3 wire ac delco wire that has the resister in it ($25) and still couldnt get it to work... oh well i will figure it out eventually...

good luck man... wiring can be a pita

 

[85mudblazin]

The way I wire mine is from the stud on the back of the alt. I run a heavy wire to the 12V constant side of the starter or directly to the + side of the battery. And on the two wire plug , the bigger wire also connects to the stud on the back of the alt., the smaller wire runs inside the cab and connects to a light (I use a red one) that I mount in the dash. The other side of the light connect to the 12V+ key on side of my ignition switch. The alt. acts as the ground. flip the switch, the light comes on, start it, alt starts charging, light goes out. I've read somewhere about using a resistor instead of a light, but I prefer the light. I used to have trouble throwing fan belts and wouldn't know it till the engine over heated or I run the battery dead.
I've also heard that you can run without the two wire plug but the engine has to hit something like 3,000 RPM's for the alt. to start charging.
If this doesn't make sense I'll try to find pics.
Hope this helps

Did it just like this and it works good. Not to mention my bling bling light I added to my switch panel
I noticed that when you start it the light stays on, just blip the throttle and it goes out and stays out.

 

[468k5]

after all the helpful info I've found on this site I'm glad I could help some one else

 

[onetonbb74]

glad it worked. Im going to be adding a bling bling light now also.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Wire Cut

... just rip it off by moving it back and forth until it breaks all it has is a tab that bolts to the bellhousing bolts.

This was the ONLY nunrusted piece and it stood its ground.
Finally got the bolt out that held the insolation tube in place.

I have one more issue: Is there a problem and giving the Blazer a wire cut?

Can I put all the wires that were going to the bat stud on the starter to the block on the back of the firewall and run one 8 or 10 guage wire from the stud or + battery to that post?

Is there a reason to run all the wires (4 I think) back down to the post on the starter?

 

[diesel4me]

I'd ditch the tube...

I've yanked off that stupid tube on many GM vehicles I've had over the years,and ran either new 8 gauge wires with new fusible links, or a section of another GM harness with OEM ones from a junkyard directly to the battery positive terminal ,rather than route them through that tube abortion..90% of all GM's wiring dilema's are caused by those main power wires and fuse links cooking inside that tube 1" from a hot exhaust manifold!..

So every vehicle I've had that fried a fusible link there gets "rewired" MY way..and I had no troubles ever again..in fact,GM USED to run the wires right to the battery cable AT the battery in older trucks..why they stopped and went to a failure prone idea like the "tube" is beyond me.. ..my 79 C10 has 2 sets of fusible links now,one OEM set from the original six cylinder harness,and another I added in from a donor truck,so they can reach the battery cable..and I could replace all 4 of them without crawling under it (and without cracking the solenoid cap in peices)if they ever meltdown..

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Cool thanks - that's what I will do. I wanted to check before I got too deep in the rewire.