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wish me luck on installing lift...before pics

wazzabie said:
I'm no expert here.. but I would have tried to heat it with propane. It can be had for cheap at Lowes or Home Depot. Maybe that would have freed it and say the trouble of all the cutting. Plus we need picks. Keep us posted how it goes.
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never thought of propane...but this weekend I tried to stay away from all stores and that christmas shopper frenzy. I had hell just buying sawzall blades at the local hardware store.

Im hopeing the front wont be as bad, at least the spring bolts are easy to get too. That one rear leaf nut is tucked up by the frame so I couldnt get a box end wrench or socket on it.

Last time I lifted one of these was about 7 years ago
 
usually you'll be pissing in the wind with a little handheld torch.... especially propane.. even with Mapp gas you wont put enough heat to a bolt, etc to do diddley...

can't wait to see new pics!
 
Ya I think with them being frozen to the sleeve and the sleeve spinning in the rubber I had no choice but to cut. Once I got a thin cutting disc for my grinder it wasnt bad at all, just time consuming.
 
yeah, thats the approach i usually have to take... one day i'll get a torch setup here at the house.... my argon supply place has nice refurbed, ready to run, setups for $350.... tho the plasma has been a nice addition to the tools of destruction...
 
ryoken said:
yeah, thats the approach i usually have to take... one day i'll get a torch setup here at the house.... my argon supply place has nice refurbed, ready to run, setups for $350.... tho the plasma has been a nice addition to the tools of destruction...
Click to expand...

I told my wife and kids thats my next pruchase, $350 isnt bad at all
 
yeah, it's actually a really sweet deal... just like a slightly smaller real shop setup.. good cart, like a 60 and 40 lb pair of tanks, new regs and hose, and what could pass as new, Victor or equivalent torch...

it's funny as thats a setup i would have thought i'd have gotten a LONG time ago... heck, back in the late 70's, early 80's, prior to MIG hitting it big, I did TONS of torch welding.. lot of brazing.. definitely a lost art these days.. but everywhere i've always worked, had a setup... my new place doesn't... always one of those "shop tools" i didn't need to buy.. bring it to work, or torches home in a pinch...

anyway, back to the dungeon.... try to have fun with it! :D
 
So you think the propane would be of no help with this. I know the metal will turn red using propane. Again I'm no expert on this stuff. I'm going to be doing this myself and can uses all the tips possible. I would prefer not to take out the sawall or grinder if possible.
 
man I tried air hammer, air chisel, 3/4" impact...nothing worked better than 4" grinder with a thin cutting blade disc attached and a helluva lot of elbow grease lol

wazzabie.....if you wanted to, try and loosen a front hanger rear leaf spring bolt now, maybe even a upper shackle bolt or one u-bolt nut, that will give you an indication of the task at hand
 
I keep coming back to this thread and still no lift pictures!!!!
get the lead out :)
cause I can't!!! d'oh
 
pichers.php.jpg
 
When the bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve inside the bushing your only real option is cut-off wheel. I don't waste a lot of time trying to remove those bolts anymore...same with U-bolts, you're not gonna re-use em anyways so why do it the hard way?

My rears are frozen inside the bushing, so for the short term I used the blocks. In the spring when the 60/14 go in i'll break out the cut off wheel, then burn the bushings out and install a shackle flip.

My front was really bad, I had two busted bolts at the shackle end and the rest were rusted solid to the sleeves. It was so bad I ended up getting the FUSH set-up from DIY. There was no saving my front upper spring hanger brackets...and I would have needed new bushings anyways. Much faster to knock out the rivets and install a beefier part with all new poly bushings and greasable bolts.

Rene
 
While we're waiting for pics of his lift I'll toss my .02 in....

My local hardware store had these little Propylene torches on sale one day and I couldn't pass it up. I've used it numerous times for stuck bolts on stuff and it hasn't failed me yet (although I think I've used it to kill spiders more than work on trucks :))
Anyways it was cheap and is my first step before I take stuff to work to use a real oxy/acc torch. It can get small stuff almost red which so far has been enough to break stuff loose.

28571.jpg


Watch this....

 
Last edited by a moderator:
tRustyK5 said:
When the bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve inside the bushing your only real option is cut-off wheel. I don't waste a lot of time trying to remove those bolts anymore...same with U-bolts, you're not gonna re-use em anyways so why do it the hard way?

My rears are frozen inside the bushing, so for the short term I used the blocks. In the spring when the 60/14 go in i'll break out the cut off wheel, then burn the bushings out and install a shackle flip.

My front was really bad, I had two busted bolts at the shackle end and the rest were rusted solid to the sleeves. It was so bad I ended up getting the FUSH set-up from DIY. There was no saving my front upper spring hanger brackets...and I would have needed new bushings anyways. Much faster to knock out the rivets and install a beefier part with all new poly bushings and greasable bolts.

Rene
Click to expand...

I agree, I cut the u-bolts right off. What I dont understand is my hangers/frame/rivets even the bolts have no rust on them, the nuts had a little surface rust but thats it, the rust was on the inside of the sleeve and I guess the rubber was so dry rotted/cracked the force of me trying to turn the bolt just sperated the rubber from the sleeve.


Okay guys, theres not much to show in the pics, like I said its face down azz up :whistle:


 
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