CK5
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wish me luck on installing lift...before pics

As for getting the steering arm off. You need to bet down on it with a big hammer to make the wedge cones come up that are around the studs. It's the only way to get them out so you can get the arm off.
 
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looks great 88. why did you go with quad shocks up front and who makes those those? i got an old set of factory styled quads on mine now and i'm gonna loose 2 next week, my back is not liking the hard hits in this lousy city.
 
Yup, steering arm 101:

big hammer, at least a 1 lb mini sledge. Beat on the arm downwards, and side to side. Don't be shy...as soon as you see one of the cone washers pop up a hair use a sharp screwdriver and a hammer to unscrew it upwards and off. Repeat until all three cone washers are out.

I've done three or four now, and none have taken me longer than 10-12 minutes. Most recent was for my current 90 I just lifted.

Rene
 
As for getting the steering arm off. You need to bet down on it with a big hammer to make the wedge cones come up that are around the studs. It's the only way to get them out so you can get the arm off.

I searched and read all the threads, they say beat down not up, beat on the part number area on arm etc....didnt budge.

looks great 88. why did you go with quad shocks up front and who makes those those? i got an old set of factory styled quads on mine now and i'm gonna loose 2 next week, my back is not liking the hard hits in this lousy city.

Thats factory quad front setup, two seperate upper mounts. I dont know how it will ride, havent driven it yet till I get the other issues completed.

Yup, steering arm 101:

big hammer, at least a 1 lb mini sledge. Beat on the arm downwards, and side to side. Don't be shy...as soon as you see one of the cone washers pop up a hair use a sharp screwdriver and a hammer to unscrew it upwards and off. Repeat until all three cone washers are out.

I've done three or four now, and none have taken me longer than 10-12 minutes. Most recent was for my current 90 I just lifted.

Rene

LOL.....Your posts in those steering arm threads I searched for is what made me think I could do it. I followed your advice and they just wouldn't budge.

Honestly the kit doesnt say it requires the arm, I just figured I would install it since 3" is close to 4". Skyjacker says its 2.5" should use the pitnam arm drop so I guess thats what I will have to use.

I might start a thread for acceptable drag link angles.
 
Looks great, can't wait to see it with your new wheels and tires on there.
 
Thanks....I cant wait either...killin me.

Hey guys another thing I cannot remove is the stock stabilizer bolt on the driver TRE. I took the nut off and it seems to be a weird wrench size on the bolt/stud...this screws in to the TRE correct?....anyone know the size?....tight in there.
 
The stabalizer bolt in the tierod is a tapered hole just like a tierod or draglink end. Hit the bulged area with a hammer it will dislodge just like a TRE.
 
I don't remember for sure on the size (i bet it is metric) but I think it was just a stud that goes through the TRE I don't think it screwed in. It may be a tapered hole.
 
Man that is looking good! I like the idea with the steelies & hubcaps. Still tempted to do that myself ;)

Good luck with the steer arm.

Clay
 
Your drag link angle is gonna cause ya greif man -- definitely get more aggressive with that steering arm and beat it off so you can put a raised one on instead. I had one once that I beat on with a full size sledge hammer for a couple hours to get it off, but it did come off.
 
Yup, some arms are nasty bastards. You gotta beat em like a rented mule for a while...it's not a 'finesse' job at all. Brute force and ignorance will win the day...

Rene
 
Thanks guys, got the 6deg pinion shims installed today and that looks good now. Got the swaybar reconnected and a few other things.

still needing to be done:

1) install ext brake lines (have)
2) extend diff breather hoses frt/rr (dont have)
3) buy/install pitnam arm (dont have)
4) buy/install new draglink assy (dont have)
5) buy/install new TRE's (dont have)
6) install stabilizer shock (have)

Parked it in the garage and I have 3.5" to spare, tires are about that much taller measuring with mounted tire next to loose new tire so in theory it should still clear the garage opening but wont know for sure till they are mounted...gonna be close.

Cab height with stock tires/lift is approx 77.5", front fender height is 40.5".
 
Its as close to level as I could get it, had to add a shim and a small block in back. Pinion angle looks good to me now.

lift5.jpg


lift4-1.jpg
 
If you haven't gotten you steering arm off yet. Take off the tie rod and get a big sledge hammer and hit it from underneath. It will come off. It usually comes loose in 10 or less hits.
 
If you haven't gotten you steering arm off yet. Take off the tie rod and get a big sledge hammer and hit it from underneath. It will come off. It usually comes loose in 10 or less hits.
a lot of people will argue that you shouldn't hit up on it, tightens the cones inside the arm. Down and side to side is where it's at.

However, I haven't had the pleasure of doing this yet. :D
 
I always beat up, down and side to side when I remove them arms. The first one I ever took off took me nearly a week and I almost gave up and bought the pitman arm but the extra money spent vs. figuring out what I already had took over.

After I got it figured out I take them off all the time for friends or anyone else that cant figure it out. I use a either a 3 or 4 lb hammer, no less and beat it till it comes off. It seems like when you beat up and then down it works the cones out so you can get a screwdriver in the groove and spread em apart, then off it comes.

Dont let that old arm win:waytogo:

and nice blazer by the way
 
hey 88....i thought you did an all spring lift. how big of a block did you need to level the back out...any why? i would have thought the back would have been higher than the front.
 
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