Worth it or not?.. (elect. harness thread/ charging issues)

[Cntymnty77]

So a couple days ago I did the unthinkable, I put the blazer on CL. I had a bit of a breakdown and said the hell with it, I just wanted something that would run and drive now, not that the blazer doesn't but something a little more reliable. I want my project truck to be done now.. I have a new (to me) 350 and intake that I've started building but the biggest problem with this thing is the electrical. This is where this all gets tied together. My charging system is nonexistent. I've replaced the battery once and the alternator twice and it still won't charge the battery. Now, this is an '83 and several people have taken the liberty of "rewiring" it. I think at this point if I could make this truck more reliable, I'd get out of my funk and get back on board with restoring this thing. All partially why I haven't been on here lately.

I know this has been covered in here a few times but most of the threads I found just seemed to fizzle out. I'd like to get some good input on this. I know that rewiring the truck is obviously the only way to fix everything that I'm having issues with but after looking, the Painless 10205 kit looks plug and play, as advertised, I just don't know if $794 is that "painless."

Has anyone used this kit? Was it as "plug and play" as advertised? Is there another kit that works just as well that is a little more painless on my wallet?



Or should I just go the $185 route with the EZ Wire kit? The same questions apply but sometimes you do get what you pay for.

 

[6872xtc]

Well I can't give you any first hand experience on either kit. I have heard that there is just about the same amount if work to use either. ... but I don't know..
I have always been able to find or fix factory stuff.. .. but I know that some don't like wiring!!!!
I can't believe that no one else has chimed in yet!!!!

I would look into the EZ wire kit, and compare, including reviews. Either kit has lots to do for final installation, try to find out what it involves.

 

[blazinzuk]

I used a kit from hot rod wires. No firewall blocks. All the wires just ran through. I have not installed the painless kit.

It's totally worth it. But my kit was 150 bucks. It lacked a couple things but pretty easy to do.

@Wicked Wolf Auto how much can you get him a kit for?

 

[Cntymnty77]

Well I can't give you any first hand experience on either kit. I have heard that there is just about the same amount if work to use either. ... but I don't know..
I have always been able to find or fix factory stuff.. .. but I know that some don't like wiring!!!!
I can't believe that no one else has chimed in yet!!!!

I would look into the EZ wire kit, and compare, including reviews. Either kit has lots to do for final installation, try to find out what it involves.

I've tried fixing some of the hack wiring on this but I don't like having 2 or 3 but connectors in one line. I'd rather just start fresh. I would even mind finding used stuff that was in good shape but for some reason, around here, you can't find it.

I used a kit from hot rod wires. No firewall blocks. All the wires just ran through. I have not installed the painless kit.

It's totally worth it. But my kit was 150 bucks. It lacked a couple things but pretty easy to do.

@Wicked Wolf Auto how much can you get him a kit for?

Did your kit have the factory style connectors?

 

[blazinzuk]

I've tried fixing some of the hack wiring on this but I don't like having 2 or 3 but connectors in one line. I'd rather just start fresh. I would even mind finding used stuff that was in good shape but for some reason, around here, you can't find it.

Did your kit have the factory style connectors?

Yep. It was the basic kit though. So it just replaced the main harness fuse block. There are several sub harness that did not get replaced but those usually don't get touched cause they are hard to get too.

Now mind you I did this a LONG time ago

 

[Cntymnty77]

Yep. It was the basic kit though. So it just replaced the main harness fuse block. There are several sub harness that did not get replaced but those usually don't get touched cause they are hard to get too.

Now mind you I did this a LONG time ago

Haha! At this point I think I'm just going to replace the whole damn harness. Its completely jacked up and looks like ass.

 

[Carcinogen]

I used the EZ Wiring 21 kit when I rewired my old 76. It wasn't terrible, and every wire is labeled but you do have to re-use your old connectors.

 

[sreidmx]

I’d check the manual that comes with the wiring kit, that should give you a decent indication on where to spend your money, the last harness I had to deal with I believe was an ez wiring brand and the directions were terrible..

I’d also look into what the wire is, std primary wire like you get at autozone is not up to what I’d consider “harness” or long term use, the insulation is not rated for the sustained heat and amp draw. The sxl type stuff is what the newer gm harnesses use, I believe painless and some of the other high end harnesses are built that was also.
If it was me I would spend the money to do this part right, try and avoid butt connecting stuff and splice instead.. wiring is a nightmare if done wrong..

 

[Carcinogen]

According to their website:

"EZ wiring kits use GXL 125 high temp cross linked polyethylene jacketed wire that is grease, oil, gas, and acid resistant. Each wire is labeled every 5” Its entire length"

No idea what that means in the real world though...

 

[sreidmx]

http://www.purkeys.net/are-you-buying-the-right-wire/

Check that link out, good info.
Gxl is the middle range and sxl would be the higher end, more abrasive and heat resistant. It depends on where the wire is going to be run. On top of the engine, sxl all the way, in the fender for lights and is away from engine heat sources gxl or even txl..

 

[Cntymnty77]

I’d check the manual that comes with the wiring kit, that should give you a decent indication on where to spend your money, the last harness I had to deal with I believe was an ez wiring brand and the directions were terrible..

I’d also look into what the wire is, std primary wire like you get at autozone is not up to what I’d consider “harness” or long term use, the insulation is not rated for the sustained heat and amp draw. The sxl type stuff is what the newer gm harnesses use, I believe painless and some of the other high end harnesses are built that was also.
If it was me I would spend the money to do this part right, try and avoid butt connecting stuff and splice instead.. wiring is a nightmare if done wrong..

That's why I will probably end up going the more expensive route. I know that there are some things that you can get cheep but others, you do get what you pay for. I really don't want to spend that much money but if it will last a long time and be an easy install, I'll do it.

And like you mentioned about the butt connectors, that's what I've been dealing with and it looks like trash and makes it hard to actually figure out where the problems are.

 

[Rugby_7]

I used the American autowire classic update series. I am not good at wiring, but this kit made it super easy to install. The main reason I went with the kit was since I was starting from scratch it was nice to have all new plugs and connections.

 

[Carcinogen]

http://www.purkeys.net/are-you-buying-the-right-wire/

Check that link out, good info.
Gxl is the middle range and sxl would be the higher end, more abrasive and heat resistant. It depends on where the wire is going to be run. On top of the engine, sxl all the way, in the fender for lights and is away from engine heat sources gxl or even txl..

Good link, thanks.

That's why I will probably I will end up going the more expensive route. I know that there are some things that you can get cheep but others, you do get what you pay for. I really don't want to spend that much money but if it will last a long time and be an easy install, I'll do it.

And like you mentioned about the butt connectors, that's what I've been dealing with and it looks like trash and makes it hard to actually figure out where the problems are.

If the price isnt an issue or if you have broken/missing connectors or you arent very handy with a soldering iron, then you should get one with connectors hands down. For me the price difference was my deciding factor but I can sure see how getting one with connectors would be easier and faster.

 

[Cntymnty77]

I used the American autowire classic update series. I am not good at wiring, but this kit made it super easy to install. The main reason I went with the kit was since I was starting from scratch it was nice to have all new plugs and connections.

I'll have to look that one up. I love your build by the way! I also wanted to ask you about your dash. Is that the auto meter dash or factory? I'm wanting to go the same route you did with the gages.

If the price isnt an issue or if you have broken/missing connectors or you arent very handy with a soldering iron, then you should get one with connectors hands down. For me the price difference was my deciding factor but I can sure see how getting one with connectors would be easier and faster.

The price is an issue but I also don't want to buy something cheap that I'll have to modify. I'm also missing a lot of the factory connections. I'd like to find a quality harness that is essentially plug and play.

 

[Ducshak]

I used the Painless kit a long time ago on a Jimmy I rebuilt. It had an abortion for a wiring harness so I decided to replace the whole thing and start from scratch with the Painless kit. From what I remember it was very well built and easy enough to install. Some assembly was required but it got me a reliable harness that I would not have to worry about.

 

[Cntymnty77]

I used the Painless kit a long time ago on a Jimmy I rebuilt. It had an abortion for a wiring harness so I decided to replace the whole thing and start from scratch with the Painless kit. From what I remember it was very well built and easy enough to install. Some assembly was required but it got me a reliable harness that I would not have to worry about.

That’s exactly what I’m looking for. Thanks!

 

[Rugby_7]

I'll have to look that one up. I love your build by the way! I also wanted to ask you about your dash. Is that the auto meter dash or factory? I'm wanting to go the same route you did with the gages.

Thank you! The dash is from classic dash. I stumbled across it on eBay and got a smokin deal. One cool thing about the American Autowire kit is it has directions for stock or autometer gauges.

 

[rpcraft]

If that is the dash I am thinking of how is the fitment for it so far? I may be mistaken but all of the ones I have seen for a square body just didn't look great. The ones they make for 72 and earlier seem to look far better... That being said, I am facing a wiring boondoggle mixed in with an LS swap, so I got one of those kits of ebay that is a 21 circuit wiring kit. It is made for GM's, ford and mopar and appears to have all the right connectors to hook up for steering ignition connections, and etc etc. I'm sure I will have to figure out some stuff for the dash but from what I have gathered swapping the pins on the cluster is harder than supplying the wire, and if you are having a wiring nightmare like I am, maybe starting over is the best thing to do. I talked to the fellow that builds the kit (Keiths Chevy and street rod shop) and he said that my kit would allow for power windows, locks, rear window, and should have open circuits if I want to add other features (like power seats), and additionally that it was very GM oriented. I went ahead and picked up the HD relay for the front windows and the headlights, plus about 5 more relays that I can use for adding some other features (like the LS fuel pump power, etc etc) I figure while I am at it I am going to swap all the lights to LED's (dash, marker lights, and headlights) It's the best time really, but the one thing it made me realize was that I need to slow the hell down and make a project list. I was trying to get the rig to a running state before the house is completed so I can drive it there, but then I realized half the reason I am building the house is so I have a garage, driveway, and yard of my own so I can take stuff off, sandblast, paint, and finish the beast the way I want. So now I'm just collecting parts, working on fiddly bits, and then prepping it to be hauled down to the house where I can really rip into it and do the things I want to do in my driveway (NO HOA, lol).... I hope your project doesn't wear you down. The wiring can definitely be scary but after having dealt with the LS wiring harness I can tell you the truck is very straightforward, comparatively.

 

[Cntymnty77]

Thank you! The dash is from classic dash. I stumbled across it on eBay and got a smokin deal. One cool thing about the American Autowire kit is it has directions for stock or autometer gauges.

I tried looking that kit up but all I could find was the Classic Update accessories, I couldn’t find the whole harness anywhere on their website. I’ve been looking at Auto Meters dash and found one that’s about a $100 off but I haven’t found anyone that has one to see how they like it.

If that is the dash I am thinking of how is the fitment for it so far? I may be mistaken but all of the ones I have seen for a square body just didn't look great. The ones they make for 72 and earlier seem to look far better... That being said, I am facing a wiring boondoggle mixed in with an LS swap, so I got one of those kits of ebay that is a 21 circuit wiring kit. It is made for GM's, ford and mopar and appears to have all the right connectors to hook up for steering ignition connections, and etc etc. I'm sure I will have to figure out some stuff for the dash but from what I have gathered swapping the pins on the cluster is harder than supplying the wire, and if you are having a wiring nightmare like I am, maybe starting over is the best thing to do. I talked to the fellow that builds the kit (Keiths Chevy and street rod shop) and he said that my kit would allow for power windows, locks, rear window, and should have open circuits if I want to add other features (like power seats), and additionally that it was very GM oriented. I went ahead and picked up the HD relay for the front windows and the headlights, plus about 5 more relays that I can use for adding some other features (like the LS fuel pump power, etc etc) I figure while I am at it I am going to swap all the lights to LED's (dash, marker lights, and headlights) It's the best time really, but the one thing it made me realize was that I need to slow the hell down and make a project list. I was trying to get the rig to a running state before the house is completed so I can drive it there, but then I realized half the reason I am building the house is so I have a garage, driveway, and yard of my own so I can take stuff off, sandblast, paint, and finish the beast the way I want. So now I'm just collecting parts, working on fiddly bits, and then prepping it to be hauled down to the house where I can really rip into it and do the things I want to do in my driveway (NO HOA, lol).... I hope your project doesn't wear you down. The wiring can definitely be scary but after having dealt with the LS wiring harness I can tell you the truck is very straightforward, comparatively.

Haha! That’s kind of the point that I’ve gotten to. I’ve started storing parts away like a squirrel storing nuts for the winter. As far as my wiring goes, I’m going to have to start completely over. There are wire splices to wire splices.

Oh and HOA’s can suck it! I got a new proposed addendum to our HOA rules today and new one is that, “No work can be done to any vehicle in driveways.” I think that was added by the HOA president because For some reason, he doesn’t like me. I think I’ll keep working on it though. You’d think he would want a better looking truck sitting in the driveway. Haha!

 

[beags86]

@Chevy305 used the ezwiring kit on his Stepside.