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WTF Do I do now - 1988 K5

oh.. for the record... I remember talk of this rig needs to be moved, etc....

with the body issues you have going on, I wouldn't be throwing more than $50 in Rusto at this rig paint-wise....

get the rig together and transportable, douche the pee out of it with a 1/2 dozen cans of rusto.. get it where it needs to go... put it on the road mechanically... THAN sort out the body issues before investing ANY real body supplies at it......
 
Thanks

Ok thanks!!!!

Sorry to go on about it , I should have asked this before but

should I wait till paint and install of gaskets or do it now ?

EDIT: Just saw your second reply.

Yes moving to Vegas but wanted it done 1st. Otherwise I have to haul all those boxes of interior parts that I already have. They will take up less room if installed right ?

It is running now but have another problem with that. It will not go into park and it starts in reverse gear. Scary. Good thing I have two feet one for the brake and the other for the gas :))
 
which gaskets? doors on the pinch welds? yup, throw em on, see if the doors latch closed reasonable.... expect some minor wind/water leaks for now.

door window felts, etc, I like to strip/prime/trim out the doors with paint.. than install felts... paint down the road...
 
blackwall1.jpg
 
gaskets

Yes the pinch weld gaskets are what I was referring to.

I don't have any window glass right now. They were in the door when the welder was welding the skin on. I did not know know that when the slag hit the glass it would crack it. Came out the next morning all the glass was just a bunch of pieces, I guess the over night temp change did it .

FYI I finally made a check list of things to do. It had 133 when I started the list (after most panels were installed). Down to 106 items now. but 1 item is putty all the dents. so that could be on the list a while
 
like I said... imo, puttying dents is the last thing you should be thinking about...

douche it for rust.. but you need to work on some metalwork/alignment issue before investing any time or money at getting to paint with mud, fill primers, etc......

once your gaps are as bent and aligned as you can get em, you can go back in and gorilla hair/mud em, etc...


glad it's running again!
 
ok

So my new list:

1. Finish welding
2. Get doors / fenders properly alligned. Include in this process putting door gaskets (may be pieces of old one) on temporarily.

From this conversation I get that what I thought was bad replacement parts is really my fault - I have not put the door back where they belong.

Got it. Waiting for welder right now but will work on item # 2..
 
yeah, your in a small, minor move/bends till this is reasonable mode imo....


normally I'd say start with "aligning your door to a known good edge, like a qrter or factory rocker..." tho that's not gonna work here.... :doah:

I just don't wanna see you guys throwing a TON of body materials at this rig to make it "reasonable".. when putting a bit of patience, and hydraulic/bending/aligning effort may make it WAY easier in the end.. whether east coast, or west.....
 
i understand now

I think I finally see where your coming from. Ok will work on step 2 tomorrow

Thanks so much Royken

Be back on tomorrow.
 
Reading

Chevy305 said:
You really need to read through Chief's thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283048

Its quite the novel but it spells out step by step the propper process for body work from cut out old pannels through applying base and clear.
Click to expand...

I have read it. But, there is so much there and reading it is not the same as reacting to it.

Now, if your offering to download it, cull out the dialog that is not instruction, Put it into chapters, That would be sweet. :whistle:

Just kidding, and your right, I should read it again now that I am at the fine tuning of the body phase.

Regards...
 
Aside ????

Well that 4x4 in the door jamb is working, Thank you Royken.

Will post pics when I get the doors right. That curve at the door handler is getting a lot closer to the curve of the rear quarter. I apologize to the mfg's for dissing their parts.

You may know that I had trouble getting it started a few weeks ago. WE (i.e. team coloradok5.com) finally solved that but I am now running into a new problem.

It will not go into park and it starts in reverse.

In case you did not know this but way way back, when I removed the body, the firewall / cab dropped down about 6 inch's since there was nothing to hold it up.

Could that drop have bent the linkage from the shifter to the transmission so that I don't have the "range" to get it into park ?

Any ideas ?
 
chock the wheels... put it in park.... disconnect linkage from shift lever on trans... see if the lever moves further in the park direction, or is actually all the way in park...

your neutral safety must be disco'd already..
 
disco'd

ryoken said:
chock the wheels... put it in park.... disconnect linkage from shift lever on trans... see if the lever moves further in the park direction, or is actually all the way in park...

your neutral safety must be disco'd already..
Click to expand...


does disco'd mean disconnected ? sorry, don't know some term's.

Is "your neutral safety must be disco'd already" - a statement or an instruction ?
 
actually it may be hooked up and "thinks" it's in park.. yes, disco means disconnect.. you need to verify shifter throw..
 
shifter throw

The shifter is moving oddly.

(linkage was disconnected for a while because the town had the truck towed for sitting in one place for 7 days. It was disconnected when the firewall dropped)

If it goes into park with the linkage disconnected from the trans would that suggest that the linkage rod is bent ?

Is it best to manually position the shifter on the trans to park or first when connecting the linkage ?
 
yes, that would suggest the linkage is bent... everything is determined off the location of the lever on the trans.. that should be in park... the linkage should be made to bend/conform/adjust to that position..
 
two things and some pics

Transmission issue:
So I examined the linkage and I do not see a bend or kink where the firewall could have dropped onto it. It's a straight bar from the lever on the firewall to the trans.

I did find that the bushing and spring that "levers" the linkage at the trans against the frame are missing. Ordered new ones, waiting for receipt.

Just realized that I did not examine the flat bar that transitions the shifter rod to the linkage bar at the firewall. Will check that and advise.

================================================================
Edit: No that rod is not bent. removed linkage rod and it appears straight and i cannot bend it. so don't think it was damaged.

I am tired of this and my son offered to pay so I just ordered this: B&M 80680 - B&M Light Truck Mega Shifter

==================================================================

Doors Issue:

old curve before adjustment.jpg

So that 4x4 worked to pull out the upper door. Next we cut a slit along the rear fender, inside the door frame, from the bottom of the rain gutter to the point where the crease from front to back is. Then we tapped in the rear quarter curve until it match the curve of the door. Then welded that back up. (I know old pic is passenger side but battery died just now.)
Curve after adjustment.JPG
However, when you said press on the middle of the door I took that literally. I should have been pressing on the middle of the door edge instead I now have a concave door. I am so ignorant I should have thought that through better.
Door concave after adjustment.JPG
Any suggestions on how to undo what I have done to un - concave that door. ?

Just a pic of completed rear. (Note the contraption my son created so he would have an armrest and more storage under the center console. I hate it but it's his truck)
Rear - completed.JPG

old curve before adjustment.jpg

Curve after adjustment.JPG

Door concave after adjustment.JPG

Rear - completed.JPG
 
Last edited:
More pics showing my modifications

Just wanted to share some modifications we have made:

1. Fuel Pump hatch open.JPG
Fuel pump hatch closed.JPG

We cut this hole for access to the fuel pump. We cut old door gaskets and glued it to the underside as a "Starter" seal. We plan on using either seam sealer or just silicone to fill in the gaps and completly seal the hole prior to putting down the new flooring.

2. step rails.JPG

Had square stock left over we we made these step rails.

3. Spare tire holder 1.JPG
spare tire holder 2.JPG

A while back I bought this spare tire holder that fit into the receiver. After almost getting a ticket for blocking my license plate I stopped using it. It was not convenient also because you had to remove it to open the tail gate.

Here is link to how it looked before mods: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Car...tml?feed=npn&gclid=CKibkcCl5LgCFVCf4AodryIAoQ

(Sorry for link but can only post 5 photos)

So I saw that the post would fit into the side of the receiver and I cut it up and made it so we can lower it. It does not block the plate or the turn signal any more and you just pull the inner pin to lower it and it fits under the tailgate.

Figured I would share this idea.

Fuel Pump hatch open.JPG

Fuel pump hatch closed.JPG

step rails.JPG

Spare tire holder 1.JPG

spare tire holder 2.JPG
 
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