WTF Do I do now - 1988 K5

[THEMCGUIRE]

Status update

When I started this project I made a To-Do list. Added a lot of steps along the way but ended up with 183 steps. 119 are done. 64 steps to go.

Wagner control spray plus.jpg

Attached pic's show where we are now that we painted the interior with three coats Zero Rust diluted 15% with Zyline. Used about 90% of the gallon. It was 90 degrees when we painted and did not use a good paint gun. Just used a Wagner Control Spray Plus HVLP. I did this because I wanted textured results. My experience using Plasti-Dip in High Temp's taught me that this would happen. While it is not a uniform pebble finish it does have some texture and we are quite pleased with the result.

See closeup of piece of dash, for how it came out this way.

Piece of dash after paint shows texture.JPG

Included pics are overall look from rear, and look of front dash area with new shifter in place.

Front after paint and new shifter.JPG

Interior from rear.JPG

We had some trouble with the shifter back up lights. There was not much instruction about them in the manual but we then figured that we had to cut the power line TO the backup light switch and send that to the shifter, then from the shifter to the backup lights at the fuse box. This worked fine.

The neutal safey switch and back up lights on this shifter operate by the use of two micro switches on the shifter mechanism. There are three raised metal spots on the shifter that close one micro switch when the shifter is in Park or Neutral. The other switch is closed when it is in reverse. We can now shift through all gears, only start in Park or Neutral. Which was the reason we replaced the column shifter.

We also did a lot of fiberglass bondo on the door jams. As you may know the aftermarket rear panels needed a lot of work. One was 1/8th inch shorter then the other at the front end. (We know this because the inner metal of the rear quarters panels is flush, and tight against the back of the pillar yet the outer metal would not reach around the pillar into the door jamb.)

Look of passenger door seam after fiberglass bondo. I hope the irregularities will not be so noticeable after painting.

Passenger door seam after bondo.JPG

I still have the problem with the concave bend in the doors from when I was trying to bring out the tops. I pushed in the middle of the door. I now know that middle meant edge of door between top and bottom not exact middle of the door.

I suspect I need special tools to get these bends out because I cannot find a leverage point to pry against.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=148528&d=1375635361

Would appreciate suggestions on how to get those bends out.

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

status update pics

Here are pics of where we are with interior. Once interior is done and I figure out why she will not start, again... we can get ready to move.

 

[y5mgisi]

Lookin good man! Good luck with the starting issue.

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

Got it started with some help on another post here. Wound up it was a loose power feed going into the fuse box and a bad connection on the fuel pump assembly.

Making progress on the interior. Will post pics when done.


One comment. We are changing the interior plastic from dingy faded blue to black using the Colorguard paint from LMC.

It takes a lot of paint to change the color. I figured 7 sq feet a can, ok 2 cans. My son did make the mistake of painting both sides of a few parts but you really need 3 lights coats to get the color right.

I am now on can 3 and ran out. Ordered 3 more cans.

 

[y5mgisi]

Good to know.

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

Am I cursed?

I went over to Bloomfield to buy a cap and doors from fellow CK5 member NJK5SEAN.

Anyway, He needed a jump to get his truck started to lower the rear window. I went to turn my truck around to pull into his driveway and SURPRISE. SURPRISE, SURPRISE !!! reverse died...

Now it worked find when I backed out of my driveway...

Good thing Sean is a big guy. He pushed me out of the driveway and I was able to get home. Forward gears work fine.

I don't remember if I mentioned it in this thread or another but when I finished the body and started on getting the engine going, during my 1st try at starting the engine both of the trans fluid cooler lines to the radiator started spewing trans fluid. I replaced the lines and filled it with trans fluid, yes with engine running, moving it slowly through all gears a few times.

Then worked on engine, when I finally took it for it's first ride around the block, about 1/4 mile, I had smoke coming out of the trans filler tube by the time I got back home. To make a long story short I had to put another 3 or 4 quarts of trans fluid, in addition to the 4 put in when I replaced the cooler lines. I know how to add trans fluid so I do not understand why the gauge read full and then needed more.

This trans was rebuilt in 2006. Then it sat in my driveway from 2009 to a few months ago. BTW I took it to a trans guy a few weeks ago, he took it for a test drive and told me the trans was running fine. He had to use reverse to get it out of his lot but that was the only road test on reverse he did.

So I have a couple of questions.

1. Do I always have to buy a new torque converter when removing / replacing a trans?

2. Has anyone dealt with www.transmissionpartsdistributioninc.com

They are selling a rebuilt for my truck for 625.00 plus 125 shipping.

Here is the exact page:

https://www.transmissionpartsdistributioninc.com/servlet/the-REBUILT-TRANSMISSIONS-cln-Blazer/Categories

They say: "Parts are updated with the latest hard parts. We do not recycle used parts or put anything into the transmission that is prone to wearing out prematurely."


3. How about those ebay rebuilts ? Can any of them be recommended ?

4. Many of the ebay offers also offer upgrades like Vette Servo, etc. Should I be looking at these options.


I know that if I take it to AAMCO they will hit me for at least $1,500.00 without any "upgrades" so is replacing it with this rebuilt a better solution?

Having never done it before do you think I can change this transmission myself without messing it up or not adjusting the TV cable correctly?

I would appreciate your thoughts.

 

[jekquistk5]

You do not have to buy a new torque convertor but its good to have it flushed and pressure tested for cracks.

If you lost just reverse its probably a crack on the drum.

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

thanks for the response.

however, what drum do you suspect that I have a crack in ?

Is this repairable without pulling the trans ?

Would overheating because of low fluid cause this crack ?

even though I was only in reverse for a few seconds ?

I know nothing about transmissions.

 

[jekquistk5]

I am still a slushbox newbie. The only way to really figure out whats wrong is to pull the trans and take it apart, or have a trans shop pull it apart. Could be the TV cable too, does it shift fine forward?

Also read here

http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

I will not attempt to take apart a trans. I am not equipped with space or a warm place to work and it is just too risky.


If I take it to a trans repair how do I know that they will rebuild it with all the latest upgrades from 1988 stock ?

This is going to be a DD and I dont plan to go offroad. What upgrades should I get.

What questions do I ask to know they are a legit quality shop ?

How much should a shop charge. I see a shop in NYC that offers rebuilds for 399.00 that seems too cheap.

Finally, should I make this a thread on it's own ?

 

[jekquistk5]

As long as your hard parts are good, and you just need soft parts(clutches etc) you can get it done for about 400. Call local shops not AAMCO etc. Most big trans shops are busy dealing with kia's and mini vans.

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

thanks i made this a new thread as well.

I restated all my questions about where to buy from. If I rebuild this again, I want bells and whistles!!