Yellow goes inside?

[ChefBear]

I'm so close to cranking over the crate motor...

On the starter Purple goes out side yellow goes inside?

Inside=towards the block.

And, I'm taking the yellow up to the HEI from the starter and then can I jump it to the electric choke? or should I pull another wire?



I'll post some pict later

 

[bigblock72]

Purple goes to the inside. If you're running a HEI then you don't need to have the yellow wire. Make sure the HEI gets power directly from the ignition switch, check it with a meter, it should read battery voltage. I'm guessing you still have the resistance wire for the original points which drops the voltage down to around 10 volts. This will not work! Cut the wire at the junction block and replace with a regular 14 AWG wire.

Find a different source for your choke, the small wire is going to be about maxed to the HEI.

 

[ChefBear]

So...

I run the yellow to the out-side post on the starter, purple on the inside, then pull a new wire for the HEI and another one for the choke...?

 

[bigblock72]

Discard the yellow, it splices to the original resistance wire and will not be needed.

 

[ChefBear]

I don't mean to be an idiot...

So on the starter Im gonna have the big one from the battery and the purple one and no yellow one?

 

[bigblock72]

Yep, the yellow wire is just to bypass the resistance wire and apply battery voltage when cranking. You're eliminating the resistance wire and the need for the bypass wire.

I think it'll make more sense when you start to disect the harness.

 

[ChefBear]

Thanks

Got it. I think. Thanks for the help. Not quite as exciting as a Greg Project but...

 

[Greg72]

People will look at almost any thread as long as it has lots of embedded photos....



Rust repair isn't my idea of exciting, but the stuff that follows certainly will be.

 

[bigblock72]

Not quite as exciting as a Greg Project but...

That's ok, not everyone can have as many loose screws as Greg.

 

[ChefBear]

Yellow doesn't go anywhere!

I ran the purple one to the starter and pulled a new line for choke and another for the distributor, wired up the flex-lite fan and cut out everything else that i couldn't identify.

Primed the oil thingy and the SOB fired right up, plenty of oil pressure, temp looking good, and then the thermostat opened up and $hit went everywhere and I remeberd the radiator cap.

Motor is broke in and I ran it to work tonight even though the TSLs are way beyound flatspotted after almost 2 years.... I can run the truck while I fifnish projects, I will never take the truck out of commision like that again!

 

[Greg72]

Post up a new photo of the engine when you get a chance....

That first picture looks a bit messy, and I'd like to see that you're not still using an inline fuel filter directly about the hot exhaust system....

Congrats on getting the new motor installed and running, that's got to be a great feeling.

 

[ChefBear]

I put that there on purpose because I'm always running the tank way down and I can just look and see if I'm out of gas... You're right though I should move it. Where should I move it?

I orderd new body mounts and the ORD 1" body lift today, and I went and had a meeting with the shop that's gonna build my cage. Were going to do it in stages, with the basic cage first and then seating etc etc.

I have a SW Racecars kit and I'm going to modify and change as needed and use it as the base.

 

[muddy shoes]

could i see some pics of your sw cage mounted or not, im planning on getting one of those for my 75 blazer and would like to see how it will look. will the hard top still fit?

 

[Greg72]

Just get the filter down lower and out of direct alignment with the exhaust in case it ever cracked or leaked..... somewhere down near the fuel pump would be better.

Not bagging on you, just trying to help prevent one of those sad "my truck burned to the ground" stories that nobody likes to see.

 

[ChefBear]

I never turn down good advice, and I'm just smart enough to know that I'm not the smartest. I think the first thing you told me was to build for safety, then reliability with performance 3rd or 4th...