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Zero rate question...

CK5

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So I'm in the middle of installing a 1" zero rate and plan to move the axle back 1.5", looks like by moving it back 1.5" I will no longer be able to use the shim that is in it now, is that correct or am I missing something?
 
I think you'd be able to use it still, might need to aquire a slightly longer bolt to pass through the shim and into the zero rate.

Just have to remember that the bolt going through the spring pack is the one goes to the adjusted hole in the zero rate, the axle pin on the zero rate is the center, you want the spring perch in the middle of the block, not offset...
 
I think you'd be able to use it still, might need to aquire a slightly longer bolt to pass through the shim and into the zero rate.

Just have to remember that the bolt going through the spring pack is the one goes to the adjusted hole in the zero rate, the axle pin on the zero rate is the center, you want the spring perch in the middle of the block, not offset...
I think you are describing using a shim with out moving the axle back?
There are 2 bolts, one center pin and then an offset bolt, that offset bolt gets covered by the shim, thus no way to tighten.
 
Should bolt through the shim, and if the hole in the shim is too big to be bolted together, you should get new shims...
 
I see what you are getting at now...no way to tighten the bolt holding the spring pack together once the shim is in there
 
Drill a hole in the shim for a socket..

Or tack the bolt head to the zero rate.

or bolt up the shim sideways, attach zero rate to spring pack. hammer shim in correct spot

get a longer bolt for spring pack, hold the end with vise grips and tighten nut with wrench
 
Just one of those things I never thought of before hand... I wonder if I can get away without the shims?
20171001_115357.jpg
 
Should be able to get the nut tight enough on the bolt that goes through the spring pack with an impact gun even though you can't access the head of the bolt. If you still have the leaf pack clamped together nice and tight, slide the assembled shim and zero rate up in there and hit it hard with the impact, friction should take over and the bolt should tighten...
 
Ideally, the pinion angle should be within 1 degree of the drive shaft with your current setup.
 
P.S., I'll take my "GMOTM winner" banner next to my name please...:burnout:
 
So you likely need that shim to get your pinion angle right...
 

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