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Zimmers 06 LLY

I think the sun was shining on that part in the pic, adding to the photoshopped look too.
And this truck hasn't been driven in the winter the last 5 years!
Im certainly jealous of the dry climate of the southwest! The salt just eats metal like me on choc chip cookies! And the humidity accelerates it.
You have to feel good about working on older vehicles down there!
 
Planning on doing the cooling system flush w some Bars leak flush and drain. Then fill w distilled water, drive it a bit, then drain the system. Going to pull the radiator out and have it reconditioned, as well as clean out the stack, replacing hoses, thermostat and belts as needed. Was going to do the waterpump too, worth the effort or let its trouble free self keep going?
 
If you have the cooling stack removed to clean it. It'll make changing it a lot easier. As its not an easy task normally from what I've heard.
 
Looks like you need to get a flywheel blocking tool, and yeah, shit is packed in pretty good on these engines. Took off the lower radiator hose to radiator connection....interesting fitting with just a retainer bail wire holding the hose in place, pop that off and push the hose back, and out comes some of the fluid. It looks really good, pretty clean and a pH of about 7.8. I put some Bars leak flush in it, and ran it up,to temp for 15 min, then letting it cool overnight and will flush it out good tomorrow.
It jas a Donaldson element in the air cleaner housing, those are supposed to be good, and it looks good to so Ill leave that alone for now...just cleaned out the housing.

CDF4EE61-26C5-43BC-8164-1AC6D67C1DD7.jpeg
 
76zimmer said:
Looks like you need to get a flywheel blocking tool, and yeah, shit is packed in pretty good on these engines. Took off the lower radiator hose to radiator connection....interesting fitting with just a retainer bail wire holding the hose in place, pop that off and push the hose back, and out comes some of the fluid. It looks really good, pretty clean and a pH of about 7.8. I put some Bars leak flush in it, and ran it up,to temp for 15 min, then letting it cool overnight and will flush it out good tomorrow.
It jas a Donaldson element in the air cleaner housing, those are supposed to be good, and it looks good to so Ill leave that alone for now...just cleaned out the housing.

View attachment 338593
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I was trying to remember why the need for the blocking tool... right! Gotta take the balancer off.
32 mm socket I think.
That bolt is no joke! I remember a 4 foot snipe! :haha:

I’ll look for the link I used when I changed mine tomorrow morning. It has some shortcuts that might be helpful for you.


Your dex looks nice!
 
Have you guys heard of the breaker bar on the bolt and braced against the steering boxr? then give the engine a quick crank hit to break it loose?

 
76zimmer said:
Have you guys heard of the breaker bar on the bolt and braced against the steering boxr? then give the engine a quick crank hit to break it loose?

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Done that for many years on all kinds of nuts and bolts including the nut on the transmission yoke in my Mercedes.
It's the poor man's impact
 
I can see changing it in an hour.....if you've already done it a few times. I spent an hour just getting the air intake, upper shroud and trying to find a petcock drain....which there isn't one, hence removing the lower hose connection.
After looking at the condition of the Dexcool, I may just evaluate this replacement when I get in that deep. Maybe its been done already? It does need a serp belt, so I will evaluate the hoses then too.
 
76zimmer said:
I can see changing it in an hour.....if you've already done it a few times. I spent an hour just getting the air intake, upper shroud and trying to find a petcock drain....which there isn't one, hence removing the lower hose connection.
After looking at the condition of the Dexcool, I may just evaluate this replacement when I get in that deep. Maybe its been done already? It does need a serp belt, so I will evaluate the hoses then too.
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Yeah that hour is BS! It took me 4 hours. But there was some good tips in there. And the tool list was helpful.
Mine was leaking so I had no choice.
 
I have that kit front and rear on my 2012 1500. They work great! Definitely better than the usual ceramic pads. I'd say it's a worthwhile upgrade. Very little brake dust, lower brake temps, and so far getting better pad life which is the main reason why I upgraded.
 
Also be aware that the Power Stop calipers are remans and have a very short warranty period. I had one that's piston seal started leaking after 6 months to find that warranty is either 30 or 60 days. I bought the silver painted calipers (sold separately) and only one came silver, the other was just cosmoline coated. It might be different with red calipers but just my experience.

I replaced that leaking Power Stop Caliper with a Raybestos premium or whatever for only a little more money than the Power Stop one.
 
Good feedback Glenn, I also started a post in the garage for more traffic. Thanks man!
 
Yes, even that is stout, kinda surprised it don't have a pinion nose bearing though.
 
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