CK5
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Yup big for sure! So are the universals... have a good look at them too Dave.

Actually just for interest is your driveshaft aluminum or steel? One peice or two being a 2x4?
 
What are you going to use for the diff cover gasket?
I bought a new Dorman cover and Lubelocker gasket. Painted over the China Dorman logo, and cleaned up the bolts and gasket surface, drying overnight then poppin it on tomorrow.
Yup big for sure! So are the universals... have a good look at them too Dave.

Actually just for interest is your driveshaft aluminum or steel? One peice or two being a 2x4?
U joints look good, no zerks for grease, but they’re solid. Look like 1410’s, same as I run throughout the Maiden!
Its a 2 piece steel/steel driveshaft., a bit rusty, but it still has the factory stickers on it....must be some good glue!
 
That’s what I wanted that know. Never seen a 2 wheel Duramax around here. Colby’s 01 Short box extended cab has a steel one piece shaft and my 02 short box crew cab has a one piece aluminum shaft.

Kind of cool the different shafts between the models of trucks.
 
Was just curious about the gasket because dodge uses the aam 11.5 axle also and from the factory it has a reusable gasket. It’s what I have on my 07 Silverado.
 
It would be interesting to know what application dictated the different driveshafts.
Also interesting Dodge used a reusable gasket. I'm sold on the Lubelockers, especially on my Blazer, where it seems I get into the trans and diff’s frequently.
 
Let paint dry overnight, and now rear diff back together, and filled.
Put the new rounded version of the Z71 bumps on. Others were long gone, but not crumbling with rust like the 99 was.
Drained the drivers side of the block...orange bolt. Evidently the pass side is under the starter.
Took the overflow? Bottle off to clean that out with some flush, that’ll sit overnight.
Fought with trying to get the fan guard/shroud off. The one that is directly around the fan. Its got 3 mounting bolts and they kinda suck to get at, so out come both of the inner fenders, intercooler piping, and then I can get in with a wrench, one flat at a time to get the bolts off...got two of em, and a phone call pulled me away from it for tonight. Ive been avoiding this task because it looked like a suck job, and it has proven to be so. Suck it up buttercup!

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Looks like rock auto gets about the same price for the molded rubber as what I paid for the Lubelocker. The Lubelocker are a steel core w a gasket coating and 2-3 lines of silicone on it. They work!
 
Ya factory dodge are metal core black ribbed silicone we take them on and off only one I’ve seen leak is one that someone put rtv on.
 
If you pull the air box out and the computer the plastic studs for the shroud are easy to get at.
 
Dean I believe this is a shroud that started application in 2006. It is full circumference around the fan itself, in addition to the two piece shroud.

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From what Ive read the LLY’s had cooling problems that they addressed pretty good in 06. The airbox and ducting was revised as well as cooling system mods. Not quite sure what the airbox had to do with it, maybe more airflow?
 
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Well, I’m in this deep, MAW pull the balancer and change the pump. Looks like its starting to weep a bit anyway.
Decided it was so much fun removing stuff to this point, that about everything Ive taken off just to get the radiator out, I’m going to replace, So I’ll be changing the tensioner, idlers, belt, and hoses, as well as thermostats. The idlers spun ok, but sound a bit rough through a stethoscope, same with the idler, not surprising for 250k.

A few pics of the teardown so far...the extended chisel to loosen that fan nut is a great tip I found.

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Anybody know how to get this trans line fitting and this type of electrical connector off?

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7CA45875-90E1-456E-8B1C-E434A2C8E249.jpeg A33A1633-7683-4C9B-B80C-FAE85A06DF49.jpeg Here’s a pic of a line unhooked and what the clip looks like installed . To put it back together the line just snaps in and then slide plastic cap over to keep clip in place.
 
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