What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Zinc Chromate tech......

ryoken said:
anything comes up you wanna know bodywork/paint/fiberglass-wise Rob, just PM me, I'll hook ya up.... :D
Click to expand...



Thank you VERY much, I a dumbass when it comes to painting and I have little patients for the process but I want to learn and know how to do it. In fact I would like to driveway paint my rig just to say I did it. So your help is appreciated GREATLY! I know I'm going to beat my truck when it's done so having a shop "custom" paint my rig for more money then I care to spend is just stupid. If I can do a decent job at home, I'm stoked big time. With my drawing ability I think I could lay out the flame job I want no problem. I have already thought about how to transfer one side to another for a Symertical paint sceem.
 
So whats a good primer in a spray can to use on a frame after the zinc? Sandblasted my frame today and got the bottom zinced gonna flip it tommorow and do the top with the zinc. Then what?
 
then any standard fill primer... rattlecan-wise, I can't help ya... all my standard primer is 2K urethane primer from Dupont.. 2-part stuff..

I'd guess some sandable Krylon stuff would be ok... don't use an epoxy over zinc...

in reality, the absolute proper finishing procedure is...

etching primer

filling primer

sealer

topcoat

I rarely seal anything.... works nice... it's just the extra labor and coin that make me skip it usually...
 
BoondocK5 said:
ALODINE

Good stuff, if you leave it on too long it will "burn" the metal leaving it brown instead of gold tinted.
It chemically bonds with metal, creating a micro-thin layer of protective surface that stops rust and oxidation cold.

I paint metal with it that I'm going to leave outside for more than a day. rinse off after 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

I use that aluma prep all the time at work on aluminum diamond plate, works awsome. Only thing is that it likes to eat the metal in our bilges... :doah:
 
I would add that "Cold Galvanizing Compound" available from C-R-C and Rustoleum (and other brands) has worked remarkably well on some things I used it on,like the gas tank in my 81 G-10 van--I sprayed it back in 1990 when I first bought it,the tank was just starting to show some spots of rust poking thru the original galvanized coating--it still looks like I just did it !!...it may not be suitable for body panels,I've not tried it on a quarter panel or fender,it might not like some topcoats??--but I'd reccomend it for frames and other undercarriage parts you dont want rusting away quickly...the metal needs to be clean before applying it though,it wont "convert" rust or hold up if sprayed over rusted steel...
 
thanks Paul, I have two questions...

is there a particular brand zinc chromate in rattle cans that you prefer?

is there a particular brand zinc chromate in gallons that you prefer?


Most of the time I'd be using rattle cans, but If I was priming something large, like a vehicle frame, i might want to step up to spraying out of a gun.
 
this seems to be the preferred brand and type...the yellow I don't think covers as well as the green does....

Moeller brand...do a search for pricing...but you might as well by a 1/2 case (6cans) it'll get used!

moeller.jpg
 
yup...... and for 2 part gallon setups I like awl grips stuff..


8722.jpg
 
So how does the zinc chromate hold up when a part is shot then stitch welded? More details - two pieces of plate are stitch welded together, after time rust creeps out from inbetween the two plates. Can the zinc primer drastically reduce the amount of rust that will come out from between the two plates or should I just stick with the caulking thing?
 
If I understand you correctly, your welding two plates that have the zinc on them?
for best welding it should be bare metal obviously, but there is some weld through zinc available...but should be used only as a mist coat if your trying to weld through it. It will affect your weld the thicker the coat is.
If you have rust in the weld, it needs to be treated somehow, preferable with an acid solution to kill the rust inside the pores, and also to etch the metal for the zinc primer. If you have a porous weld, the caulk would probably make it look better, but the zinc primer will protect it good with a couple coats, but it really needs to be topcoated to seal any oxygen from getting into the weld again. Remember that rust can't form without oxygen.
 
Hmm, my can is almost done. Time to head to the marine surplus store. Need a ground wire anyways. I don't remember how much it was last time

I'll probably spray my cage with it
 
Thanks for the reminder....

I went out to the manspace to check and realized that I was on my LAST CAN! Unacceptable.

I took a chance on that vendor link you provided below. They are located in Concord, NH (only about 1 hour away) so the shipping should be quick... assuming they are not a scam company. :D

ps. Ordered Jaws on Blu-Ray a couple weeks ago.....doesn't come out until August 2012, but figured I "Might As Well" pre-order it.


-G




Chief Brody said:
This place had it for 6.75 a can when I purchased my last batch a few months ago...now look at the price...

http://www.offshorewake.com/shop/index.php/primer-zinc-chromate-green.html

Cheapest price today is http://www.boatfix.com/shop5/store/listItems.asp?strSearch=MOE 025472
Click to expand...
 
Greg72 said:
Thanks for the reminder....

ps. Ordered Jaws on Blu-Ray a couple weeks ago.....doesn't come out until August 2012, but figured I "Might As Well" pre-order it.


-G
Click to expand...

I preordered it and also preordered the British version which comes in the "steelbook" version...supposedly not offered in the U.S....I can't wait...want to see the TSISW documentary very badly...
 
Mudbuggy, Dave covered most of what i would say...

just remember this..... zinc chromate isn't something meant to deal with existing rust in any way... it is strictly a method/product for adhesion of primers to steel... thus creating a good topcoat system from clean steel... which is the basis for preventing rust...
 
So what replaced the zinc chromate? Did you say it was zinc phosphate or something? Reason i ask is that i see ryoken green all day here at work so i looked up the MSDS of it and it doesnt say zinc anything! Im not sure if i can legally say what it does have in it but it sure aint zinc. Im guessing Boeing got out of the zinc chromate game because of the health hazards involved? Or is it bad for the environment too? Cause Boeing has a thing for making sure that they have a squeeky clean image to the public so i could see them doing away with it if it was bad for envrio or health.
 
there are plenty of "zinc free" "self etching" primers out these days... they all pale in comparison.. yes, it's horrible for the enviro, your body and the universe, thus why it's becoming scarcer and scarcer...

I don't know where all this "zinc phosphate" bs is coming from, but it's zinc chromate...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom