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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}

Overview Gallery Discussion
pblaze725 said:
JIMMY is looking sad. There's a nice size puddle of tranny fluid under him.

Leaking oil out of my engine mounts.:D

I've got some work to do.
Click to expand...

I feel yer pain. :doah:

I've got a wasted 700R4, The 208 is draining itself on my driveway,
There's more oil on the outside of the motor, than in it.... Etc.

Cranks
Hard,
Every
Valve
Rattles,
Oil
Leaks
Every
Time

It's in the name... :haha:
 
But it starts every time. And continues to run. Mine knocks, leaks & smokes sometimes but it won't quit.
 
I have some questions about common leaks.

-The rear YOKE. WTF?* SCAAMCO
I tried a shadetree trick of putting a nice layer of JB weld on the little hole where fluid seeps thru.
That don't work so don't bother.
Maybe weld it?

I just got an idea. Drill it out and tap it for a zerk fitting?

I'm gonna get a new one.
leaks 001.jpg



- The 2 bolts on the bottom of the tranny that are directly below the bolts at the flange for the Tcase is? WTF?* SCAAMCO
UM. there is black silicone and tranny fluid leaking from the bolt holes.
How do you fix that?
leaks 002.jpg



UH oh, Coolant dripping out of my bell housing dust cover!?:eek1:
leaks 003.jpg
I might need to pull the engine and start a low dollar rebuild.:thinking:


*SCAAMCO worked on my rig a while back, when I got it home it was leaking a lot of fluid. I returned it back to the shop dissatisfied so they filled my yoke and the bolts with black silicone.





Roger Dodger is registered as a 3/4 ton but it has a 60 on it. If I go get a Dana 44 from the JY and the gear ratios match and toss it on there would it still be a 3/4 ton?

:dunno: :whistle: :thinking:


leaks 004.jpg

leaks 005.jpg

leaks 001.jpg

leaks 002.jpg

leaks 003.jpg

leaks 004.jpg

leaks 005.jpg
 
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Yea WTF? if I remove the bolts I can see the other bolts going thru the mounting flange.


Anywhoo I went to the Junkyard today to get a used 10 bolt front driver side axle shaft because I messed the yoke flanges at TDS and popped 2 ujoint caps.

Previously someone suggested welding the Ujoint caps to prevent them from popping off.


Well I did and the result was snapped axle shafts. It turned out to be more difficult to repair broken shafts because you have to pull the diff and get the nub out of the locker. You know the deal.

I didn't see a single 10 bolt front axle in all 3 yards I searched. Well there was one but it had a 30 spline shaft & I have 28.

I might be heading to the Carlsbad yard pretty soon if anybody wants to go.



Squirell.jpg

I saw this Squirrel and thought of DUG.

Squirell.jpg
 
The squirrel is trying to tell you a few things. He says (and I quote):

1. Try inserting the slip shaft at another angle. Sometimes the splines are worn down just right to make the seal leak and drip a little. Also the squirrel uses the seals from NAPA that are have green rubber (he thinks they are National brand) as opposed to the orangish colored Timkens. The green has stopped a leaky NP208 slip shaft a few times before.

2. The two bolts on the TH400 to NP208 adapter aren't leaking. It's the front seal for the NP208. It just collects on the bolt heads and drips off them, making them appear to leak. Only a squirrel would be able to get up under there and see it.

3. Mr. Squirrel doesnt' think that's a kingpin D60. He can't really tell though. I (Andy) had a Dodge W250 3/4 ton pickup and it had a D44 front and D60 rear.

Now go shoot that dang squirrel before he gets up in the engine bay of JIMMY or the Dodge and wrecks havoc on the wiring!

:weapon30:
 
Sorry my phone didn't post it before its definitely a king pin 60 you can tell be the spring cup on top held in by the 4 bolts
 
andyblack said:
3. Mr. Squirrel doesnt' think that's a kingpin D60. He can't really tell though. I (Andy) had a Dodge W250 3/4 ton pickup and it had a D44 front and D60 rear.
Click to expand...

I was responding to that. I thought it was clear from the pictures that it had kingpins.

Martin
 
82355 said:
I was responding to that. I thought it was clear from the pictures that it had kingpins.

Martin
Click to expand...

I'm clear now. I posted the question because of something Andy"Squirrel Master"Black said earlier.


It's torturous having a broken 10 bolt sitting next to a 60 that's for sale in the driveway. :doah:
 
Oh yea my rant for the day.

Craigslist people!! UGH!!

I took Roger Dodger off the market yesterday but a guy replied to my add prior to me taking it down.

Him- Do you still have the truck 'I AM A SERIOUS BUYER'.

ME- "yes sir I still have the truck"

Him- Can I come look at it whats a good time?

Me- After 4pm is a good time I can't talk during work hours. I had plans after work but if you are a serious buyer I'll change my plans. here's my number give me a call then.

5 minutes later my phone rings.

Him- Hey it's me I got your message-

Me interrupting- I can't talk I'm working. I'll call you later...

Later...

-Ok meet me at my house here's my address-

Shows up. Nice truck yada yada yada looks it over... Here's the best part it has a King Pin Dana 60 front. He climbs under the truck and looks it over pulling himself under the front axle and then opens the passenger side door and asks...









... Is this 4WD? :popcorn::doah:








Really?



Craigslist people...:doah:
 
My whole point earlier was that my old Dodge W250 3/4 ton came with a 44 front, so I think it would be acceptable to get the Dodge 44 front axle you saw and swap them out and no one would know the difference. However, I would definately do some research to find out about parts differences in the Dodge and Chevy D60s. I mean who knows, that D60 could be a Chevy axle that someone stuck up under there. But if it were me, I would want to make sure I knew what size/spline axle shafts, u-joints, etc. that it used, plus if it had different sized hubs than a Chevy axle because it might cost a little bit to get the ones to match a 14 BFF rear if it's not 8 on 6.5" to start with. Also I would find out what the castor is. It may work great on the truck it's under now, but it could go all over the road and have vague steering input or be hard to steer if it's not right for your Blazer. All this can of course be corrected, it just may not be worth the trouble, if you know what I'm saying.

I think that's what the little squirrel was actually trying to tell you - "Make sure this swap is worth the hassle."
 
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