So by inboarding the rear shocks I am more prone to axle wrap?
Does this mean I NEED a traction bar?
Does this mean I NEED a traction bar?
CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
Nice Poll. 
andyblack
Registered Loser
Maybe not. I mean you're not running a high horsepower engine or huge bias ply tires. I guess just do it up however you want it and see what happens. Plus now that you have your cool new welder, you can always make changes.
I like to think of it this way. Have you had a problem this axle wrap thus far? If not your probably not fighting it much. If its any cancelation I haven't had any axle wrap issues since my change.
True, it's a 305SB,700R4,NP208 and the tires are only 35's on a 13BF.
I have had a problem with axle wrap but it wasn't my rig. JIMMY had to tow a Heep home one day cuz a guy who thought he could weld made some mods and the welds snapped.
As for the JIMMY No,I haven't had any axle wrap issues but when I did my rear shock mount repair, fix, redo I kept the angle of the shock in the stock position.
I was hoping you would chime in because I know your shocks are in-board and you don't have a track bar.
The thing is you've only driven the Trimmy to work. So we know there's not a street issue.
How's it going to be on the trail?
The guy in the story I mentioned drove out to the trail so he did good on the highway too.
Valid question. Except.... I built mine like a brick **** house
andyblack
Registered Loser
I don't think it really makes that much of a difference probably. I think the advantage is that you can run shocks with more travel.
I know, I helped. @ Supermotard.
@ Supermotard.
If anyone else has experience with in boarded shocks feel free to chime in.
Hi steer Hydro assist ram mount.
I'm having 2nd thoughts about using the 10 bolt steering stabilizer TRE for my ram mount.
I would have to drill the hole out to 1". I'm concerned that there wouldn't be enough metal left to have any structural integrity.
I think I'll stick with the double tab style like I am currently using. This will help me keep the ram perfectly parallel with the drag link.
Hi steer Hydro assist ram mount.
I'm having 2nd thoughts about using the 10 bolt steering stabilizer TRE for my ram mount.
I would have to drill the hole out to 1". I'm concerned that there wouldn't be enough metal left to have any structural integrity.
I think I'll stick with the double tab style like I am currently using. This will help me keep the ram perfectly parallel with the drag link.
While I agree that using 2 tabs is better due to double shear over single. I do present you with the option that you could use a misalignment spacer to reduce to 3/4.
The 14th bolt
I finally took care of that pesky 14th bolt hole.
Before...
I burned it hot and slow.
Then I smoothed it out.
Then I tacked the lower shock mounts in place and the rear is all mocked up.
Next I'm gonna homebrew a high steer setup with junkyard parts.
I finally took care of that pesky 14th bolt hole.
Before...
I burned it hot and slow.
Then I smoothed it out.
Then I tacked the lower shock mounts in place and the rear is all mocked up.
Next I'm gonna homebrew a high steer setup with junkyard parts.
wait how did you do the lower mounts
andyblack
Registered Loser
I'm thinking he inboarded them. We need proof however.
Inboard rear.
It's just and idea so it's only tacked in place.
Going with the junkyard theme low budget build
I chopped off the stock lower shock mounts and cleaned up the edges.
I put the center of the mount in line with the center of the spring perch pin. I kept 1" clear for the U bolt.
I'm thinking about rounding the square edge for style points.
I already know that by putting my shock here I will need to remove the bump stop. That's ok, it looks like the bump hasn't touched the axle in years.
It's just and idea so it's only tacked in place.
Going with the junkyard theme low budget build
I chopped off the stock lower shock mounts and cleaned up the edges.
I put the center of the mount in line with the center of the spring perch pin. I kept 1" clear for the U bolt.
I'm thinking about rounding the square edge for style points.
I already know that by putting my shock here I will need to remove the bump stop. That's ok, it looks like the bump hasn't touched the axle in years.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Ooooooooo. I was right. For once.
I fixed it.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I don't know how to post the laughing smiley from my phone on Tapatalk or I would. Ha!
Actually I guess the shocks aren't inboarded but you know what I meant.
Actually I guess the shocks aren't inboarded but you know what I meant.
Welds and mock up stuff
I decided to go ahead and weld the shock mounts in place.
It's not quite a stack of dimes but it's still a stronger bead than the factory gave me.
I threw on a mock up shock to show how it will look.
I decided that this weekend I am going on my last trail run on the 10 bolts.
I'm thinking I might try axle breaker one last time.
Next I'm getting some 8 lug steelies. I want black but right now I can only find the white wagon wheel ones.
Hubcaps are starting to grow on me too.
Well see soon enough. I'll do some research.
I decided to go ahead and weld the shock mounts in place.
It's not quite a stack of dimes but it's still a stronger bead than the factory gave me.
I threw on a mock up shock to show how it will look.
I decided that this weekend I am going on my last trail run on the 10 bolts.
I'm thinking I might try axle breaker one last time.
Next I'm getting some 8 lug steelies. I want black but right now I can only find the white wagon wheel ones.
Hubcaps are starting to grow on me too.
Well see soon enough. I'll do some research.
After seeing Avery's calendar submission photos I was inspired to round my fangs off.
