andyblack
Registered Loser
I sure am learning a lot from your trials. Keep up the good work. [emoji375]
CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
Thanks AB.
That's the reason I post my failures too. ...So others can learn from my mistakes.
That pretty much wraps up the Tcase clocking project. I put a coat of Herculiner on it at the end of the day. It'll take a while to dry.
After that I reinstall the seat. No big deal.
Next up I build a Traction bar and skid plate. I'll be sure to keep you posted.
Stay tuned....
That's the reason I post my failures too. ...So others can learn from my mistakes.
That pretty much wraps up the Tcase clocking project. I put a coat of Herculiner on it at the end of the day. It'll take a while to dry.
After that I reinstall the seat. No big deal.
Next up I build a Traction bar and skid plate. I'll be sure to keep you posted.
Stay tuned....
Pblaze '82 K2500 JunkYard JIMMY {clocking the 208}
I cut some slugs of tubing 2" and figured I would weld them to some extra body mount washers laying around. Sort of like Adam did.
Here I was comparing flux core to MIG.
Interesting...
Then I made 3 little "yarn spools" to raise the seat 2" to match the box.
Not quite the stack of dimes you see in other threads.. I'm not the best welder, maybe the worst. It should hold.
I'm still waiting for Herculiner to dry, then I'll bolt the seat down and put the DONE stamp on it.
I cut some slugs of tubing 2" and figured I would weld them to some extra body mount washers laying around. Sort of like Adam did.
Here I was comparing flux core to MIG.
Interesting...
Then I made 3 little "yarn spools" to raise the seat 2" to match the box.
Not quite the stack of dimes you see in other threads.. I'm not the best welder, maybe the worst. It should hold.
I'm still waiting for Herculiner to dry, then I'll bolt the seat down and put the DONE stamp on it.
Pblaze '82 K2500 JunkYard JIMMY {clocking the 208}
I'm kind of lacking in real estate for the upper shackle due to my exhaust.
As for the lower end, I may have a clearance issue with my inboarded shocks.
I'm still scratching my head about how I'm going to get this traction bar to fit.
I'm kind of lacking in real estate for the upper shackle due to my exhaust.
As for the lower end, I may have a clearance issue with my inboarded shocks.
I'm still scratching my head about how I'm going to get this traction bar to fit.
Here I was comparing flux core to MIG.
Interesting...
.
that pic is worth a 1000 words......
andyblack
Registered Loser
Now I want a MIG. Man it's looking good. You'll just have to look at other peoples' threads to see what they've done and get some ideas.
Don't do what I did.
I was just about to pour this on my Tcase when I noticed it's not ATF!
Why would they put it a bright red container and make it look like the ATF I normally use!!!?
That was a close one!
Yea, I sent Ryoken a few PM's about flux core vs MIG. Thanks mang!
I was just about to pour this on my Tcase when I noticed it's not ATF!
Why would they put it a bright red container and make it look like the ATF I normally use!!!?
That was a close one!
Yea, I sent Ryoken a few PM's about flux core vs MIG. Thanks mang!
andyblack
Registered Loser
Shoot man it might not leak out as bad as the ATF does. [emoji57] good thing you noticed though. I'm thinking the planetary gear wouldn't last too long with thick motor oil in it.
It's ok. I'm in a good mood.
I just ordered one of these:
Warn 10,000lb winch with synthetic rope.
I just ordered one of these:
Warn 10,000lb winch with synthetic rope.
Looks good pblaze725!
When I did my Track Bar I built a plate off my Pinion Guard up to my Truss support and attached the Track Bar there about an 1" of clearance from the Driveline and followed the driveline to the cross member. I know you don't have a Truss yet but you will with the added traction so you don't twist the axel tubes. just a thought. I cant find any picture of what I did but I know my buddy has my set up when I took it off and went to 4 Link.
When I did my Track Bar I built a plate off my Pinion Guard up to my Truss support and attached the Track Bar there about an 1" of clearance from the Driveline and followed the driveline to the cross member. I know you don't have a Truss yet but you will with the added traction so you don't twist the axel tubes. just a thought. I cant find any picture of what I did but I know my buddy has my set up when I took it off and went to 4 Link.
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andyblack
Registered Loser
I have that same winch but with steel cable. You'll be asking yourself why you waited so long to get it. Hasn't let me down once. Good choice. [emoji106]
It's ok. I'm in a good mood.
I just ordered one of these:
View attachment 167689
Warn 10,000lb winch with synthetic rope.
dayuuum....
andyblack
Registered Loser
Only possible weak point on the VR10000 that I saw was the little rivets that hold the plastic cover over the socket for the winch control plug. One of them pulled out on mine the very first time I took it off. I replaced it with a nut and bolt of the proper size. No big deal. I pulled a dead tree up on one my properties a couple of weeks ago with the winch. Saved a lot of work.
Good to know. I'll check it out.
I went for a little test run today. It's alive!
The speedo works again too! ...Not even bouncy or anything.
I can feel the shimmy in the JIMMY!
I went for a little test run today. It's alive!
The speedo works again too! ...Not even bouncy or anything.
I can feel the shimmy in the JIMMY!
andyblack
Registered Loser
My needle jumps around pretty bad. So replacing the cable fixed that? I always thought it was the gauge itself.
when I had 3.08 gears and 33" tires the speedometer worked fine.
When I switched to 4.56 gears and 35" tires the speedometer thought I was going eleventy billion MPH. I started to hear a screeching noise. I thought the noise was the speedometer dying so I swapped it out with a junkyard one. It seemed to work but was not even close to accurate.
Now that I am running 3.73 gears on 35" tires the speedometer was bouncy for a while but just quit on me.
I figured while I had the cable disconnected I would spin the shaft to see if it was free. I couldn't spin it at all.
Since I had cruise control the cable goes into a gear box, then another cable goes up to the speedo. I disconnected the cable at the gear box and it spun freely.
Then I disconnected the other cable and it was siezed.
I determined that the cruise control box and upper cable were both siezed.
So yes, it could be the cable sticking; I don't know if you have cruise control.
When I switched to 4.56 gears and 35" tires the speedometer thought I was going eleventy billion MPH. I started to hear a screeching noise. I thought the noise was the speedometer dying so I swapped it out with a junkyard one. It seemed to work but was not even close to accurate.
Now that I am running 3.73 gears on 35" tires the speedometer was bouncy for a while but just quit on me.
I figured while I had the cable disconnected I would spin the shaft to see if it was free. I couldn't spin it at all.
Since I had cruise control the cable goes into a gear box, then another cable goes up to the speedo. I disconnected the cable at the gear box and it spun freely.
Then I disconnected the other cable and it was siezed.
I determined that the cruise control box and upper cable were both siezed.
So yes, it could be the cable sticking; I don't know if you have cruise control.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I do have cruise. I wonder if I could just put some oil on it if that would help.
Traction bar
After doing a lot of research I decided it was time to tackle the traction bar.
The first thing I did was find a spot that "looked" like it might work..
This was going to be be tough considering I have dual exhaust.
The idea is to make the traction bar as long as possible but the space is very limited with a SWB JIMMY.
I figured the upper shackle would go roughly in the position shown.
I soon realized this position would work as the cross member mounts would conflict with the body mounts on the side.
I started by making more room at the tailpipe but cutting off the bend that would interfere with the Trac bar.
With the tailpipe chopped I found that I can slide the cross member back to flush with the muffler, but I would need to mount the shackle on the side making it slightly lower than before.
Using a laser guided driveline identification system I marked the center of the driveline on the floor to assure my Trac bar is parallel to the driveshaft. I determined 12" is the magic number from center of shaft to center of shackles.
Getting the rear Trac bar mount in the correct position a a little tricky with the way I mounted my inboard shocks.
I had to sacrifice 3/4" of the shock mount in order to get the mount parallel to the front. This shouldn't be a big problem there is still more weld than stock left and I can weld the shock mount to the side of the Trac bar mount.
Notice I forgot to remove my shock boots. Hee hee.
A side view of the rear mount shows I shouldn't have any interference with the I boarded shocks.
Next I had to modify ORD's cross member mount to fit in the position mentioned earlier. I had to remove 1 1/4" off the side and drill a pair of holes on each bracket.
After drilling a few holes in the frame this where the cross member got mounted.
The rear mount got burned in place. Still not the prettiest welds, it was difficult to get my hand/ eyes in a good spot. I banged on it with a BFH. It sounded solid and didn't fall off.
After reading the Trac bar discussion thread, and sending out PM's the guys with Trac bars, and talking to Chris from ORD I decided to set my front shackle and 90* to my driveshaft at ride height. This pulled it away from the muffler and allows some forward movement if needed.
With that in mind I tacked the first tube in place.
Next the second tube gets tacked in place too.
The actual length of the trac bar ended up being 32 1/2".
I took a page from the Book of Avery and added a small vertical tube in the back.
With everything tacked in place I took it all off and laid it on the table.
My welds started getting better.
Thanks going out to Kert at DIY4X, Cris at ORD, for parts, Ryoken for Welding advise, Deuling for several PM's, Martin for Trac Bar discussions thread, Avery for design ideas.
After doing a lot of research I decided it was time to tackle the traction bar.
The first thing I did was find a spot that "looked" like it might work..
This was going to be be tough considering I have dual exhaust.
The idea is to make the traction bar as long as possible but the space is very limited with a SWB JIMMY.
I figured the upper shackle would go roughly in the position shown.
I soon realized this position would work as the cross member mounts would conflict with the body mounts on the side.
I started by making more room at the tailpipe but cutting off the bend that would interfere with the Trac bar.
With the tailpipe chopped I found that I can slide the cross member back to flush with the muffler, but I would need to mount the shackle on the side making it slightly lower than before.
Using a laser guided driveline identification system I marked the center of the driveline on the floor to assure my Trac bar is parallel to the driveshaft. I determined 12" is the magic number from center of shaft to center of shackles.
Getting the rear Trac bar mount in the correct position a a little tricky with the way I mounted my inboard shocks.
I had to sacrifice 3/4" of the shock mount in order to get the mount parallel to the front. This shouldn't be a big problem there is still more weld than stock left and I can weld the shock mount to the side of the Trac bar mount.
Notice I forgot to remove my shock boots. Hee hee.
A side view of the rear mount shows I shouldn't have any interference with the I boarded shocks.
Next I had to modify ORD's cross member mount to fit in the position mentioned earlier. I had to remove 1 1/4" off the side and drill a pair of holes on each bracket.
After drilling a few holes in the frame this where the cross member got mounted.
The rear mount got burned in place. Still not the prettiest welds, it was difficult to get my hand/ eyes in a good spot. I banged on it with a BFH. It sounded solid and didn't fall off.
After reading the Trac bar discussion thread, and sending out PM's the guys with Trac bars, and talking to Chris from ORD I decided to set my front shackle and 90* to my driveshaft at ride height. This pulled it away from the muffler and allows some forward movement if needed.
With that in mind I tacked the first tube in place.
Next the second tube gets tacked in place too.
The actual length of the trac bar ended up being 32 1/2".
I took a page from the Book of Avery and added a small vertical tube in the back.
With everything tacked in place I took it all off and laid it on the table.
My welds started getting better.
Thanks going out to Kert at DIY4X, Cris at ORD, for parts, Ryoken for Welding advise, Deuling for several PM's, Martin for Trac Bar discussions thread, Avery for design ideas.
that looks like it will work well... good job!
Nice fab work, Paul. It came out looking pretty nice.
Props on getting better at glueing this stuff together, too. The welds look like they have nice penetration.
Props on getting better at glueing this stuff together, too. The welds look like they have nice penetration.
