andyblack
Registered Loser
Sounds interesting. I'd like to see what you come up with.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
Can you tell me how far below the frame the bottom of the square tube is? I like your idea, I have a round tube traction bar crossmember from Kert that I wanted to do the same thing with (after buying a duplicate) but it doesn't hang low enough. The bolt heads on my tcase adapter are approx 3.5"-3.75" below the frame.
The square tube is right against the bottom of the frame. That puts the bottom of the square tube cross member exactly 2 1/8" down from the frame rail.
I should get more work done on it this weekend.
Thanks for the info. Looking forward to see how this works out.
The plan
On the table I have what will be the front (transmission) crossmember. I got some fab tabs,DOM sleeves and poly bushings from DIY4X to connect the 2 cross members together.
The skid plate will mount on 2 pieces of tubing that will connect the 2 crossmembers.
You might be wondering why I decided to go with poly bushings for the connection.
Well because I didn't get the short adapter when I had the chance I plan to incorporate the transmission mount into the 2 rails and the poly bushings will absorb the torque shock in lieu of the rubber bushings.
If all goes well I will be able to drop the transmission mount down about 1" and this should help improve my driveline angles.
That's the plan anyway. If It don't work I'll have to take it all apart and get the short adapter and mount it differently.
On the table I have what will be the front (transmission) crossmember. I got some fab tabs,DOM sleeves and poly bushings from DIY4X to connect the 2 cross members together.
The skid plate will mount on 2 pieces of tubing that will connect the 2 crossmembers.
You might be wondering why I decided to go with poly bushings for the connection.
Well because I didn't get the short adapter when I had the chance I plan to incorporate the transmission mount into the 2 rails and the poly bushings will absorb the torque shock in lieu of the rubber bushings.
If all goes well I will be able to drop the transmission mount down about 1" and this should help improve my driveline angles.
That's the plan anyway. If It don't work I'll have to take it all apart and get the short adapter and mount it differently.
Are your engine mounts poly? If not you should make them be.
They will be. I need to pull the engine for some maintence soon. When I do I will swap 'em out.
how ya diggin school?
Thanks for asking.
I was elected by my class to be Shop Foreman in a vote of 20/24 on day 2.That just means I help the instructor with various tasks and assign clean up duties to the rest of the students at the end of the day. I keep an eye out for safety concerns and serve as a mentor to the class.
I just finished my midterms of my intro class and have a GPA of 4.0. (Currently 99%).
I'm really into it and enjoy learning new things. Like you said before stepping out of your comfort zone is the hardest part.
This last week we started electrical and I learned about Ohm's law. We wired various parallel and series circuits and I'm learning a lot.
BTW If I need service on my vehicle I can have the students do it free of charge. I just need to pay for the parts. I also get a nice student discount from NAPA and there is a store on the campus.
I'm thinking about bringing the JIMMY in to have the engine gaskets changed. I noticed a few small leaks that need to be addressed.
sweet..... 
it's funny how you have much more of an appreciation for learning things once you get older...
I remember when I went to work for Winters/Hinckley when I was like 40.. I had NEVER been sent to any mechanical type school, mercruiser, abyc electrical, etc...
they asked me if I wanted to go, I laughed.. "I get paid to go learn new stuff? sign me up!"
glad it's going good!
it's funny how you have much more of an appreciation for learning things once you get older...
I remember when I went to work for Winters/Hinckley when I was like 40.. I had NEVER been sent to any mechanical type school, mercruiser, abyc electrical, etc...
they asked me if I wanted to go, I laughed.. "I get paid to go learn new stuff? sign me up!"
glad it's going good!
andyblack
Registered Loser
Ohm's law hmm.. Did they show you the little pie chart with the E/I/R and the P/I/E or whatever? That's actually quite useful.
After swapping to poly tranny mounts, I've noticed that I feel the drivetrain moving around more than when I had rubber ones. I think this is why everyone says to swap to poly engine mounts. Maybe they'll break since the drivetrain moves around a lot more than with the rubber mounts.
I actually liked the old rubber ones better, but my leaking t-case and engine turned them to mush and I didn't want to have to change them again for a long time.
After swapping to poly tranny mounts, I've noticed that I feel the drivetrain moving around more than when I had rubber ones. I think this is why everyone says to swap to poly engine mounts. Maybe they'll break since the drivetrain moves around a lot more than with the rubber mounts.
I actually liked the old rubber ones better, but my leaking t-case and engine turned them to mush and I didn't want to have to change them again for a long time.
Yes we went over the various Ohm's charts.
E=IR, I=E/R, R=E/I etc.
E= Volts
I= Amperes
R=Ohm's
I'm learning a lot.
E=IR, I=E/R, R=E/I etc.
E= Volts
I= Amperes
R=Ohm's
I'm learning a lot.
I started to layout where I want the front crossmember to go.. After laying on the ground and studying a while I zero' din on this spot.
Unfortunately the little parking brake holder thingy has to go. So I got to work cutting the rivets out and cleaning up the frame. I rerouted the cable inside the frame rails. I may decide to reuse the holder thingy when I get the crossmember mounted. We'll see...
This POV of the crossmember shows I left enough room to access the bolts to the tranny pan.
Here's a shot at the adapter. . If all goes well the adapter will sit on or just above the skid plate.
Now that I took a closer look the exhaust pipe on the driver side will not let the Tcase drop down anymore.
I may be able to make a little more room for it but with the reaction bar in place I can't slide it any closer to the frame rail. I'm not too what I'm going to do about it.
What bushings will you use?
The plan for the bushings is to use DIY4X's Fab tabs and DOM fab sleeves as shown sitting on the table. (Top bar)
I got (4) sleeves to connect (2) rails from the front crossmember to the back. The entire skid plate will be mounted to them and have some flexibility.
The adapter will be mounted to the skid plate. (Bottom bar)
Change of plan
I don't like this plan. I decided to go a different direction.
First of all I'm not too proud to say you told me so. You guys suggested to use the short adapter and I resisted but now I see you're right and I'm wrong.
I decided to go ahead and switch to the short adapter because this will give me a little more room to make a flat adapter mounting plate that will attach in front of the front crossmember using the '85 & up bushing kit from ORD.
I picked up this short adapter from The E bay for $30.
I bought the corresponding bushing kit from ORD.
Now I need to take everything back apart and start over. I think the end result will be much better.
I don't like this plan. I decided to go a different direction.
First of all I'm not too proud to say you told me so. You guys suggested to use the short adapter and I resisted but now I see you're right and I'm wrong.
I decided to go ahead and switch to the short adapter because this will give me a little more room to make a flat adapter mounting plate that will attach in front of the front crossmember using the '85 & up bushing kit from ORD.
I picked up this short adapter from The E bay for $30.
I bought the corresponding bushing kit from ORD.
Now I need to take everything back apart and start over. I think the end result will be much better.
I noticed the short adapter advantage on dirtroadoutlaws build, never occurred to me before that. My tall adapter puts the bolt heads almost 4" below the frame. 
andyblack
Registered Loser
I think you will like your new plan better. I used to have the short adapter when I had a TH700R4 but I used the long adapter and corresponding cross member when I went to a TH400. The short adapter setup has lots more clearance for the front driveshaft as well as more ground clearance. At least it did with my stock t-case angle. I don't know why it wouldn't provide the same with your clocked t-case.
Wasn't really going for an "I told you so" moment, just offering advice. I do think you'll like it better this way though. That being said, redoing work sucks.
Martin
Martin
I read dirtroadoutlaw's build yeaterday.I noticed the short adapter advantage on dirtroadoutlaws build, never occurred to me before that. My tall adapter puts the bolt heads almost 4" below the frame.
I was curious to see how he did his transmission mount. It was neat but mine is going to be a little different.
the Adapter does not raise in elevation by clocking the Tcase for the same reason the rear driveshaft doesn't. The center of the case remains the same as it rotates.
I didn't like the idea of having the adapter mounted where it would take a direct hit even if it was behind a skid. It would still break.
I always appreciate good advise. Thanks for posting. I drew some sketches yesterday and have it all figured out. It's going to be Simple, functional, and beef.
