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‘83 C10 4spd Scottsdale-Gone but not forgotten. New replacement loading...

Mild restoration build to use as a truck should be used.
Overview Gallery Discussion
I’ll grab more pics in the morning, but the tank is in. Replaced one strap and had to fix the chopped wire for the fuel gauge. Other than that, no real issues. Grabbed a couple gas cans and dropped about 10 gallons in it. Runs and drives pretty decent for the cost of a fuel tank and other small stuff. Tomorrow morning it gets a bath and it’s maiden voyage to O’Reilly’s for some oil change stuff.

A little extra fuel hose made connecting the lines pretty simple.
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And flipped around in the driveway ready for some occasional DD duties.
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Just got done at the car wash and about a 10 mile trip. This thing runs perfect. Great oil pressure. Only running issue it has is a large exhaust leak and rusty exhaust. Needs tires and shocks and probably the front end checked. But overall I am super happy with this crusty cheap turd.

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Ok, so I have zero headlights. Like nothing at all. Messed with the headlight switch on the dash, and the dimmer switch on the floor. Nothing. Where should I start? The floor switch?
 
With the floor mounted dimmer switches, I usually get down and check the fuse, then unplug the dimmer switch and check for power at the plug. I have had the terminals or the switch die and not send the power through. I had a floor dimmer switch quit quickly one night.

Then if the power is good to there, I go to the headlight plugs and check for power and ground with a meter.
 
Yep, grounds. Any lighting issue I’ve ever had on one of these trucks was due to grounds or lack of. Your truck looks totally virgin too, IE no trailer park wiring harness butchery, so check fuses and if they ain’t blown, check grounds. Headlights are grounded to the core support should be very simple on your truck being a single headlight deal.

I love seeing these original beaters get resurrected. Good work so far! Single headlight with four on the floor that’s the s—t! Don’t care how rusty it is lol. Gotta get some matching rollers on her tho. Either rally’s all the way around, or dog dishes all around, or....:waytogo:
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Grounds
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6872xtc said:
With the floor mounted dimmer switches, I usually get down and check the fuse, then unplug the dimmer switch and check for power at the plug. I have had the terminals or the switch die and not send the power through. I had a floor dimmer switch quit quickly one night.

Then if the power is good to there, I go to the headlight plugs and check for power and ground with a meter.
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Sounds like grounds and fuse are the first thing to check.
benchseat4speed said:
Yep, grounds. Any lighting issue I’ve ever had on one of these trucks was due to grounds or lack of. Your truck looks totally virgin too, IE no trailer park wiring harness butchery, so check fuses and if they ain’t blown, check grounds. Headlights are grounded to the core support should be very simple on your truck being a single headlight deal.

I love seeing these original beaters get resurrected. Good work so far! Single headlight with four on the floor that’s the s—t! Don’t care how rusty it is lol. Gotta get some matching rollers on her tho. Either rally’s all the way around, or dog dishes all around, or....:waytogo:
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Yeah thanks man! It’s been fun resurrecting this crusty turd. It’s surprised me a few times with how good of shape some of the stuff has been once I cleaned it.

I have these set of rally’s and some new tires to throw on it. Those will get thrown on in the next week or so.

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I'll be checking the plug tonight I suppose. I also read something that there are a few fusible links, so I'll chase those down and check those along with the grounds.
 
There is a fusible link at the starter to binding post on firewall. There is a fusible link from alternator to starter.
There is a fusible link from binding post to main fuse block in cab. This information is from my 85 K5.
 
6872xtc said:
Sorry that I don't remember all of the different fuse panels that I have or deal with.

Did you unplug the dimmer switch and check for power while you were down there?
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I just did. I didn’t seem to get any power. It’s hot as balls and I look like a glazed donut, so I came inside to take a break. I’ll run back out there and double check myself.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I just did. I didn’t seem to get any power. It’s hot as balls and I look like a glazed donut, so I came inside to take a break. I’ll run back out there and double check myself.
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I didn't say it before, but you did have the light switch all the way out to the headlight position while checking for power, correct?
If you don't find power there, then it sounds like next is to check the fusible links as @frankin5 posted about.

I would go to them before heading to the headlight switch, just because I think that it's easier.
 
mrk5 said:
At first I thought you were talking about the wiring. I was trying to picture what a wire that looks like a glazed donut would actually look like.
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I honestly don’t know what to say here. Lol
6872xtc said:
I didn't say it before, but you did have the light switch all the way out to the headlight position while checking for power, correct?
If you don't find power there, then it sounds like next is to check the fusible links as @frankin5 posted about.

I would go to them before heading to the headlight switch, just because I think that it's easier.
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Yep, the switch wasn’t all the way out. I do have power down to the switch. I’ll pick up a new one tomorrow and see what happens.
 
frankin5 said:
Its part of the switch.
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He’s right. I’m a dumbass its not in the fuse block. That headlight switch has a contact inside that opens to protect the circuit when it gets hot, ie a short. I had that happen on one of my trucks a few years ago, headlights would turn off and come back on a couple seconds later. Over and over. Changed switches and problem went away.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Yep, the switch wasn’t all the way out. I do have power down to the switch. I’ll pick up a new one tomorrow and see what happens.
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Ok, if they are cheap, maybe no big deal if it isn't the problem. If you could probe into the back of the plug when it is on the dimmer switch, you should be able to find out if the power is making it through, as well a switching between high and low. I had an International loose connections in the terminals right at the dimmer. I had to cut the plug off and install new terminals. But a new switch may be needed anyway.
 
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