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“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!

89 Jimmy 6.0/4l80e/MAGNUM 205/d60/14bolt
:haha::haha::haha:

Well I knew that the advertised size was never true and then mounting, psi, wheel size all played a part in the true size, but I didn't expect this kind of difference. Looks like if I want to run a true 37 then I better order a 40. I'd probably end up with a tire that actually runs true and have the same "no fitty so well" problem. :doah: Haha
So I ended up buying through BBWHEELS online. The Nittos measured out at 37"s. I'm sure there are others out there, but some of the web sites do list measured height
 
Tire sizes all depend on the tire brand. You have to actually know someone with that size on the size and width of wheel you are going to run to get a true height measurement. Every one is different and I know swampers and stuff are way shorter than they say but a lot of the name brand radials like @bent72 found out are pretty tall.
 
Man, those front rear hanger bolts are a bitch. But they're out! Carbide sawzall blades are pretty legit. I wouldn't give it the "hot knife through butter" analogy, but they worked well. Once you wore the tips off the blade they became worthless though. Had more to do today but it's hot, got ribs on the smoker and beer to drink. 'Merica!

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I've been lucky with my blazer everything comes apart pretty nice. Just the other day at work I did some rear springs on an '07 super duty that had seized bolts in the rubber bushing in the shackle and I had to cut/burn them out with the plasma. Talk about a stinky/dirty mess.
 
I've been lucky with my blazer everything comes apart pretty nice. Just the other day at work I did some rear springs on an '07 super duty that had seized bolts in the rubber bushing in the shackle and I had to cut/burn them out with the plasma. Talk about a stinky/dirty mess.

I'm convinced rubber bushings are garbage. Glad I figured that out before putting the TC springs in with them.
 
On another note, ORD brake lines, paint and new stainless lines from inline tube will be her Wednesday. :saweet::waytogo: Might be able to get that big beast of a rear axle hanging by next weekend.
 
Sub'd. Looks awesome!

If you don't mind me asking, how much is a set of ORD/Alcan springs running now?
 
Sub'd. Looks awesome!

If you don't mind me asking, how much is a set of ORD/Alcan springs running now?[

Thanks!

I think they were around $650. Don't remember exactly. I haven't read a single complaint on them so I figured they'd be worth ponying up the extra money. Especially if you're doing any kind of engine swap, running big bumpers, winches, stuff like that. They will ask about it all and take it into account.

So just for more info about the earlier pic. Those are some of the stainless inline tube brake lines and a 50/50 disc brake prop valve. The brake lines look awesome! Hope the prop valve works ok.

Edit: $650ish for fronts. Rears run a little more, due to the length I assume.
 
What other tires are on your list?
I recently got a set of Geolandar MTs in a 38/13.50R17 and like how they ride.
 
Considering anything really.

Edit: Those G003s are mean looking! The regular MT look like some huge military tires. Both are pretty sweet. :waytogo:
 
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Not much to report, but finally got the rear suspension in. Around the 4th I got a bug and had fever. Kept me out of the garage for a good solid week.

Anyway, shackle flip and springs are in. I'm not digging the axle location or shackle angle. I'm hoping those will settle back some ones it gets some weight on it. (In one pic the blue tape is the center of the wheel well).

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Adding the vehicle weight and torquing down the u-bolts will flatten the springs out, dont fully judge it until you have it sitting on all 4 tires. They will move a fair amount from where they are right now. Once you have the final stance set, set pinion angle and final weld the perches. May have to simulate some weight (fuel tank, interior, gear), but I would recommend the engine/trans/tcase be installed before making the final decision.

Also: make sure you have multiple centerpin holes on your spring perches. Allows you to easily move an axle forward/backward 1" or 1.5" DIY4X or Ruffstuff both have this style, or you can just drill additional holes in some style factory mounts (not the cast ones). Moving the rear axle back 1" looks a lot better than factory when a shackle flip is involved. I have my front axle 1" forward and my rear 1" back.
 
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I had more than enough lift from the DIY flip kit, so centering my diff in the wheel opening was not gonna happen with a 1" EZ-inch, or Zero rate. I drilled a second hole in my spring perches to push the diff back 3/4". This got my tires centered perfectly...
 
I was hoping the axle would still be fairly close to center, then I was going to move it back about 1" with my spring perches. if it's still too far forward once it's in the ground then I may be drilling a second hole.

On a different subject, what is everyone doing with the overload spring? I flipped it, as you can see, but I'm contemplating taking it off all together. With 6" shackles my lift is about an 1" taller than I want it to be so I'm not worryied about losing some height.
 
I'm on call this weekend so I just did a bunch of odd and end stuff. First, started installing the brake lines and found they they do not include the union for the rear line. :dunno: Who knew. Well O'reillys had to order it so it will be her Monday.

Next I started on tapping the 14bolt vent. The only tap I had that fit was an m12x1.75 :confused:, Whatever. ACE didn't have a barb fitting for that, so amazon is sending those next week.

And finally I swapped the diff covers on the 14 bolt and realized I painted my Spartan upside down :doah: YES! Win win win. (Vent is by my right foot in the pic)

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