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“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!

89 Jimmy 6.0/4l80e/MAGNUM 205/d60/14bolt
Uh-oh that layaway might be trouble lol.

And yeah you're right, I'm leaning towards stroker route. I have the same "might as well problem that you do...
 
Motor is at the machine shop! It's a 6 week minimum before I get it back, which is no big deal. I just need to find things to do in the mean time.

So the to-do list goes:
Clean up engine bay.
Paint inner side of fenders.
Got new inner fenders on the way.
Paint and reassemble core support.
Reassemble front clip.
Got a 32 spline input coming for TC, so swap that out and install SYE.
Clean a bunch of parts.
And start buying up engine parts :rotfl:

So what exactly would I need to do "go over" the trans? I don't have any intentions on rebuilding it right now, but would like to do a little refreshing.

Also, I am now newly commissioned to the Navy Reserves. Start drill in Sept. So my weekend garage time is going to get shortened. BUT, once the motor gets rebuilt it's really just a long list of little things left to do.
 
Does anyone have some pics of how the inner fenders are mounted? The new ones got here today and they just don't look right. I was dumb and trashed the old ones already. Needed the space :dunno:
 
I got about 3/4 of the body back on! Still gotta paint the other fender. SYE kit is done except for waiting on a flange from HAD. I might run their driveline e-brake one day. Thats about it. I guess all I have left to do is clean some engine parts for when I get the block back.

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Looks almost whole again.

So those are new inner fenders that I just shot some rattlecan bedliner on. Cleaned up the core, washed the lights and painted the headlight frames. Treated and painted the inside of the fenders with chassis black. Hung fender and door.

Now I'm trying to map out how I want to trim the fenders. Originally I just wanted to go with a fang chop, but I'm starting to want to cut about an 1" of the lip off the back. All the screw holes and such look like crap and like another place for it to start rusting out again.

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Nothing big. Just got this dude all cleaned up and resealed, I hope. I used some polyurethane roofing sealant :dunno: oughta do the trick. Dug out some old wiring and hooked it all back up. Hooked the wiper motor back up. All this I probably should've never taken off in the first place m but I didn't know how far I was going to go with the build at the time. New Rad and fan shroud are on the way. Need to order a new condenser for the AC. AC is a necessity in MS.

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Some how I missed labeling a couple electrical lines and one hose :dunno: :doah:. Can anyone help identify them? You should be able to see in the pics where these come off the firewall. There is one connection on the top of the firewall, by the junction block, that I did label but it got torn off.

Also, I am going to try to run the stock external oil cooler on the LQ4? Does anyone know what size the fittings are? Thanks!

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Sorry no help on the wiring but if you need factory type black crap for sealing around you a/c lines going into the evap housing and such this stuff is the one to use. I get it at NAPA.
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Sorry no help on the wiring but if you need factory type black crap for sealing around you a/c lines going into the evap housing and such this stuff is the one to use. I get it at NAPA.
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I looked for that, but I guess no one keeps it in stores. I have this common theme of not being able to find crap around here and always have to order stuff. This time I was too impatient to wait haha!

Thank you though. If my hack doesn't work I'll be getting some for sure.
 
I looked for that, but I guess no one keeps it in stores. I have this common theme of not being able to find crap around here and always have to order stuff. This time I was too impatient to wait haha!

Thank you though. If my hack doesn't work I'll be getting some for sure.
Yeah I have been lucky that I have lived within a day of a NAPA distribution center in SLC both here and in Utah and they can get everything overnight with no shipping. Usually I have to get them a part number cuz they can't find most crap themselves. My NAPA in Moab was awesome. They could get anything.
 
Yeah I have been lucky that I have lived within a day of a NAPA distribution center in SLC both here and in Utah and they can get everything overnight with no shipping. Usually I have to get them a part number cuz they can't find most crap themselves. My NAPA in Moab was awesome. They could get anything.

That must be nice. I have an o'reillys, advanced auto, autozone, tractor supply and Home Depot all with about 2 square miles and rarely will any of them have what I'm needing at the time. Amazon is my friend.
 
Talked some with Black Bear performance about a cam choices. They confirmed the BTR stage 1 to be a good choice but they also suggested the Comp XR265hr.

BTR: 206/212 .535/.534 114
Comp: 212/218 .522/.529 114
Pretty similar.

So when choosing a cam, duration has a bigger influence on power than lift, correct? If this is true then I may lean towards the comp. Any suggestions?
 
IMG_1879.JPG IMG_1872.JPG Well I decided to do my own harness mod for a couple reasons. First, I don't have a whole lot of things that I can do until I get the motor gets back, so I'm looking for stuff to do to stay busy with it. Second, it's cheaper.

So, I got started last night. Just went through and unpinned what wasn't needed. I'll atart tracking down wires tomorrow. And thanks to Tweeks , I'll probably be going with this fuse box.

http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/sa-2000-stand-alone-fuserelay-module/

This should be an interesting part of the build.
 
Well, another change in plans...again.

I finished the harness mod (wasn't too bad). It's just loosely together until I figure a few things out with the AC. AND thank goodness I decided to do that! I had decided to stick with a mechanical fan out of simplicity, but my old fan shroud was all beat up and barely hanging on, ordered an lmc truck shroud annnnd it doesn't fit. Go figure. So NOW I have to go back into the harness and add the pins back for some e-fans. I have to go add some AC stuff back in anyway but that's besides the point! Haha.

In other news, the machine shop called today. Motor needs a good bit of work, typical high mileage wear, but it's really nothing more than what he originally estimated. I didn't realize he would provide all the parts, which is really nice because it comes out to be cheaper than sourcing them myself.

I did manage to get a new condenser and the stock radiator back in....slow going right now
 
Has anyone done their own 4l80e rebuild?

Dilemma:
I bought my 6.0/4l80e as a combo for a decent deal. Only catch was that it’s a 2wd trans, but my research led me to believe they are easily converted depending on the output shaft.

Long story short, I have a long splined output shaft, tried cutting it off to 4wd length but it won’t work. The 4wd shaft is flush where it exits the trans and the 2wd is cone shaped which won’t allow the transfer case to bolt on without cutting more of the shaft. It’s only 2 7/8” long as it is.

So it needs a rebuild and I’m just wondering about tackling it myself. I got an ATSG manual coming and just want to do a basic stock rebuild.

The cheapest quote I’ve gotten was $1800 for a shop to do it. I might as well try to get a new reman for that I think.

Just wondering y’all thoughts or opinions. I know trans can be finicky and many times they mess up even after the “pros” dig into them.
 
It's no more difficult than a th400, 350 or whatnot. But it is significantly heavy.

Forgot to mention that I’ve never rebuilt one before. But If im doing something new then I’m pretty miticulous about taking pictures and such during the tear down.
 
I would be looking for a reputable trans guy to tear the trans down for inspection. You might find it's OK and just need to swap the output and maybe buy a new converter....

I'm fairly comfortable building an engine but auto transmissions are something I've always outsourced.
 
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