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1 bad lifter worth it?

MrSchaeferPants

MrSchaeferPants

1/2 ton status
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My #4 intake (IIRC) is groved or worn pretty good, should I buy a cam/lift kit or say screw it for a while? Or might as well since I have most of it apart already. Oh and a good ammount of the lifters have little knicks here and there on the outside ring edge.

Oh and some of my oil tubes have the rounded circle/ring thing on the tips, and some don't :dunno:

IMG_0480.jpg

IMG_0478.jpg


I think I'll check for timing chain wear, might be a determining factor.
 
Ya need a cam and lifter set my friend.

Change oil and filter as you would, and put a big ass magnet on new oil filter and change it to try and get as much metal out after its ran a bit

Edit, even after breaking in new cam run a magnet on oil filter after break-in oil and filter change
 
And whiles its out you may as well.... Buy a big block, roller cam, super charger, ummmm lemme think on this some more. :whistle:
 
Deuling said:
And whiles its out you may as well.... Buy a big block, roller cam, super charger, ummmm lemme think on this some more. :whistle:
Click to expand...

Ya I was thinking blown 572 :D

But back to the lifters and cam. I see numbers, duration, lift..etc. And my eyes glaze over a bit. Don't know what to get. Really I want stock, good drivability and mpg. I see others that state for low rpm, or off road/truck application, I guess it just puts my power band in lower rpm.

How do I figure out what I need. I need this up and running, so it'll prolly be whatever O'rileys has on hand. They have like edelbrock and comp cam kits, but I'm looking for cheaper/stock.

Since I wasn't exactly planning on $300 worth of work these last two days.
 
DONT forget the break in oil. And correct break in procedure, 2000rpms for 20-30 min. And assembly lube, but the lube should come with cam.
 
Right now you are killing your engine. Every revolution is putting more iron into your engine which is killing the bearings and piston skirts. I had a engine kill 3 cylinders in under 500 miles like that. Time to get at least a cam and lifters.
 
80' 427 said:
Right now you are killing your engine.
Click to expand...

To joke, this engine is indestructible, might run poorly, but it'll never die. :D
3 owners in 7 years, all of us are buddies, previous two wheeled the crap out of it (when it was in a 77 Jimmy), barely took care of it, had it sitting in water, don't know what oil changes are. When I put it in the CUCV, it started right up after sitting for 2 years, and fires first crank now.

It was called frakenbeast :waytogo: Well the Jimmy was.

But joking aside, yes I do need to do it. I just gotta figure out which one to get.
 
For a stock 350 I like a 204/214/ 420 443 lift cam (like the performer cam). Usually make good low end and nice power. Not wild but will lug right along.
 
Are you running TBI or Carb. Whats the main purpose of the Rig. I personally have found the Lunati Cam/lifter set LUN-60100LK to be a great all around cam that is computer friendly if running TBI. Duration 250/256, Lift .437/.454. Stock lift is .417-.430. I would not go over .500 unless you are going to replace vlave springs etc, because the springs will bind if stock. This is based on the year of the heads however and if they are stock or modified. This Lunati cam is a tad more aggresive than an "RV" cam but it will not cause a lope issue when rock-crawling etc. This recommendation is for a vehicle that you want idle-about 5000 rpm power, if the rig is used for different purposes this will change. The Lope intensity of the edlebrock series is 74/74, the Lunati is 43/43 thus making it act faster. The Lunati's design open the valves fast and closes them slower allowing a vacuum build up that helps with mixture and power.

On a side note what intake, carb/injection, heads are you running, it all comes into play when selecting a cam.
 
80' 427 said:
For a stock 350 I like a 204/214/ 420 443 lift cam
Click to expand...

This is where I glaze over. I understand the basics, how much lift, duration of valves opening, when. But only a vague understanding. One day I need to be schooled barney style until I fully understand.
 
If you are going to replace the lifters, cam, etc. you need to replace the push rods and rocker arms. Just go to Jegs or call them and get a standard Chevy setup. They usually come in a kit and won't kill you on price. I have built many engines (including race car engines for real race cars) and I have pulled 600hp out of a stock mid 70's 350. Yes I changed the cam and did alot of other work to the motor but I used the stock rockers, etc. and they held up. What let go were the pistons as the 350 was never designed to be a high rpm engine in the first place. But I did get alot of solid runs out of her before she went up to bowtie heaven. She definitely paid for herself in a time when I was in a pinch and couldn't afford the big name parts. Taught me alot and to really value the parts that Chevy puts out! Pre 80's they really put alot of good stuff out! I would say that Mopar is probably the only other brand that did this but only on their muscle cars. Chevy gave us all of these great parts for daily drivers! Chevy built these things to last as you have stated yourself.

When you start running into problems is when you start playing with all of this aftermarket stuff and don't know exactly how it works and how it effects the rest of the motor and vehicle. No one really has a solid handle on any of this stuff. It is just to big of a math problem to see it all. Believe me I have tried for over 20 years to come up with a solid fomula and I'm still working on it! If you don't believe me call any cam company and ask them some questions. Then call another one and ask them the same questions and see what you get. The only guys that really know their stuff is GM Performance and the other major car companies. They have invested millions into their computers and parts and have the experience to know what they are talking about. Other than using Holley products for my carbs and intakes I stick with GM performance parts if I'm going to bump anything up. You can tell a tech what you are doing and when you are done what they told you is what you get! You can bump up your cam a bit and go with headers but just remember that you are gaining one thing just to lose another. Your trans and rear axle have alot to do with how it will perform too. Torque to the ground equals real horsepower not a dyno run that says the motor can put out whatever horses. I have saw alot of guys build big expensive motors and not know one thing about how to deliver it to the ground and they just blow all that horsepower into the air and wasted their money.

A few preventive measures I would use are a cam stop to keep it from walking, a good bottle of engine start oil, an oil pump driver hooked up to your drill, and locker rocker arm nuts. If your valves are bad more than likely your heads are going to need machined. If the seats are okay you can use a trick we used to use on the track. Put your new valve in the head and apply a little valve compound, put the valve arm in your drill like you would a drill bit and slowly work the valve in the head. Make sure you keep the drill perfectly straight and don't get in a hurry and check your work often. If the heads are decent it will save you some coinage in this bad economy!

After you have the heads taken off soak them in a bucket of gas for a couple of days and then take a wire brush to them. Don't worry you won't hurt them if they are the old cast iron beasts. Make sure they are spotless and check for cracks with a light before you start any reassembly. Your going to need valve seals too so don't forget to ask Jegs about those. Before you slide your new cam in inspect your cam bearings and see if there are any scratches or copper showing through. If there are they will need to be replaced too. And be very careful when taking the cam out and reinstalling as it is easy to damage the bearings! The cam handle tool is another cheap insurance policy from Jegs. An upper rebuild isn't that bad and I am sure you will do fine. Just keep everything spotless and free of any dust, etc. and take your time! If you don't have the torque pattern for the intake just PM me and I'll draw it out (will be ugly and might shock you) but it will show you the sequence and how much to each until you are done. Just useless info. my mind has stored so might as well share it so it comes of some good I guess. And as always this is just my opinion and you can take it as you will.
 
Wow lots of replies, still trying to soak it all up.

So got the lifters and cam out this morning, it was #2 intake that the picture was taken, there's no lobe left on the cam for that one. Another was bad too, just not as bad. Had some metal 'strings' shavings on the cam when I pulled it out. I'm also dropping the pan, and cleaning that out, and pulling the oil strainer, cleaning it as well. There was a bunch of RTV coiled around the pushrods, I bet a chunk plugged a pushrod. Two owners ago, my buddy loved his RTV to say the least.

I was going to get 'stock' cam, lifters, gaskets and throw it back together since time sorta is an issue, but now I'm going to slow down, finish getting the pan off, clean everything up, and go from there.

Instead now I'll probably call jegs or someone and talk to what I should get. I'm not interested in performance, at least not for the next year. It's my DD, and play rig. I don't go crazy playing, so I want stock, reliable. I'll let my tires and gears dictate how hard I play.

77 350
4bbl q-jet (rebuilt 3-4 days ago) it runs good
th400
33x12.50xR15
gearing... still haven't checked. It's a CUCV, so no rpo sticker anywhere. Assuming 3.08-3.73 from what I've heard from other CUCV owners. Down the road this'll be a play rig only.

I'll re-read, try to answer questions, I'm forgetful. :D
 
mrschaeferpants said:
Wow lots of replies, still trying to soak it all up.

So got the lifters and cam out this morning, it was #2 intake that the picture was taken, there's no lobe left on the cam for that one. Another was bad too, just not as bad. Had some metal 'strings' shavings on the cam when I pulled it out. I'm also dropping the pan, and cleaning that out, and pulling the oil strainer, cleaning it as well. There was a bunch of RTV coiled around the pushrods, I bet a chunk plugged a pushrod. Two owners ago, my buddy loved his RTV to say the least.

I was going to get 'stock' cam, lifters, gaskets and throw it back together since time sorta is an issue, but now I'm going to slow down, finish getting the pan off, clean everything up, and go from there.

Instead now I'll probably call jegs or someone and talk to what I should get. I'm not interested in performance, at least not for the next year. It's my DD, and play rig. I don't go crazy playing, so I want stock, reliable. I'll let my tires and gears dictate how hard I play.

77 350
4bbl q-jet (rebuilt 3-4 days ago) it runs good
th400
33x12.50xR15
gearing... still haven't checked. It's a CUCV, so no rpo sticker anywhere. Assuming 3.08-3.73 from what I've heard from other CUCV owners. Down the road this'll be a play rig only.

I'll re-read, try to answer questions, I'm forgetful. :D
Click to expand...

The Lunati cam that I listed is a great DD cam, you wont loose vacuum like with a hotter cam, and it will still give you a bump in power without sacrificing drive-ability. Not to say people at Jegs summit etc do not know what they are talking about, but they are not always the best informed about parts and what works together. Remember many of them are getting their info off a computer that says parts work together, not necessarily matched together. There are other great cams out there aside from the Lunati, just happens to be the one I have had the best luck with in multiple applications. Not to say Edelbrocks aren't any good, they work well and I have one in my 70 FJ-40 cruiser, but If I had to do over I would have put the Lunati in that like I have in my CJ-5 and Blazer.
 
Way to go! Going stock is going to save you some big headaches! No clearance issues, special machining, etc. You don't need the Jegs tech guys to help you with the parts. Just tell them you want a stock setup and they will have all the numbers listed together. The reason I listed Jegs is that they are the most reliable source for quality parts that you can trust. I have had loads of trouble with Summit and many of the other companies. I have spent well up to and over 10k with Jegs and have always been happy with them. The small block chevy is one of the easiest motors to get stock parts for! If you want numbers I will gladly type them out for you on what you will need. If you are going with a bigger cam go with GM performance and tell them what you have in the Blazer (rear axle ratio, etc.) Don't let it over whelm you. It is really simple if you keep it simple! Too many guys out there read each month's issue of whatever car magazine (which are put out by the big parts manufacturers) and make their decisions based on what they have read. All they are doing is saving the guys money by testing out their parts for them, believe me I used to be one of those guys but learned my lessons the expensive way! I have been there and lived through all of the mistakes, blowups, failures, successes, sleepless nights, working two days straight without sleep to get a motor ready for the next day, beating my head against a wall over a simple mistake, and havind numerous satisfied customers. I built a stock 400 small block three years ago and called Jegs and told them I wanted all stock parts and gave them my bearing specs and all and they had my stuff to me within 3 business days and that motor went together without a hitch and still runs like it was new. The cams on the small block chevys were always prone to round off the cam. That's why you hear stories of guys complaining about carb issues and such and not knowing what is really wrong. The fact of the matter is the cam has flattened out and needs to be worked over. It would amaze you how many guys have argued with me about this and then thanked me after spending loads of money on a new carb, intake, etc. and finally changed out the cam and like magic she runs again!! Can anyone out there tell me what part won't interchange in the oiling system of one small block with the other small blocks? Just a quiz for the gear heads out there who build motors. Thought we could make this a little fun. No cheating and looking it up! I wish you luck with your build and hope you success no matter the road you choose! And as always this is just my opinion and take it as you will.
 
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#2 intake, completely worn down, there was another lobe worn fairly low too, but not as bad.

I'm looking at Lunati's BareBones cam kits 270/280 and 280/290. But don't know anything about it.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1991&gid=309
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2505&gid=309

Don't know anything about them. I'll call, or try tomorrow. This whole thing was at a bad time. Wife has her friend visiting for 2 weeks from Arkansas and the whole time is booked full of doing crap. So not only can I not drive my K5 with the top down (now that it's off), I also have no time to do all the work unless I bail on a day or two's activities.

I'ma go on GM performance's website too. Though I'm not sure if I'ma end up doing either, since I'll have to wait for shipping. Need it up and running. But when asking, stuff like gear ratio (I can get a rough guess) I don't know, and no idea what the stall on my TH400 is, especially since it WAS behind a 6.2.
 
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