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1 piece or 2 ?

Wes Harden

Wes Harden

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My k20 Burb with 4" lift, has a 2 piece rear drive shaft. I shortened/balanced the short fixed half after the 700r4 trans plant. I have adjusted the center support bearing by shimming it various heights. I have drive shaft vibrations at various speeds.
In the near future ( i hope) I will be installing 4" shackle flip and 56" stock rear springs. I know the slip yoke on rear half of the shaft is barely long enough for the lift w/o wheeling. I expect to have a new shaft made when I do the flip.
The question is 1 piece or stay with the 2 piece ? what is the longest 1 piece shaft advisable. I can and probably adjust pinion angle at same time. If I can do a 1 piece shaft should it be CV ?
What are the CC long beds using for a rear drive shaft?
 
Wes Harden said:
My k20 Burb with 4" lift, has a 2 piece rear drive shaft. I shortened/balanced the short fixed half after the 700r4 trans plant. I have adjusted the center support bearing by shimming it various heights. I have drive shaft vibrations at various speeds.
In the near future ( i hope) I will be installing 4" shackle flip and 56" stock rear springs. I know the slip yoke on rear half of the shaft is barely long enough for the lift w/o wheeling. I expect to have a new shaft made when I do the flip.
The question is 1 piece or stay with the 2 piece ? what is the longest 1 piece shaft advisable. I can and probably adjust pinion angle at same time. If I can do a 1 piece shaft should it be CV ?
What are the CC long beds using for a rear drive shaft?
Click to expand...
I’ve tried both in the k10, and went with the one piece due to the change in the angle of the intermediate shaft after the lift. I broke the first single, and put the old 2 piece back in. It was very clear that the one piece ran smoother

Right now I’m back to the single with a CV. From joint centerlines it is 58”. It’s running 13-50 and .1875” wall
 
I also used a one piece on my longbed. It’s a 1350 CV and around 65” IIRC.
 
I'd stay with one peice if I could...I had a one peice in both of my 79 longbeds, they are one peice from the factory. 131.5" wb, and burbs are 129"...iirc.
 
Wonder what year the factory changed driveshafts. Mine was a factory 2 piece on the longbed
 
In my opinion, it depends on what you are using the vehicle for. I have a 2 piece in the crew cab. I like it because I can move the support bearing to get the drive shaft angle I want. I moved my support bearing back so the drive shaft angle was steeper and so far it has gone longer without needing re-tubed.

If I wasn't worried about rock damage, I would be more open to a 1 piece shaft in a long bed or suburban. My 2 piece shaft has a 1410 CV at the support bearing. High Angle Driveline built it for me. I still need to work on the angles after doing the 4l80e/Magnum install they are a little wonky. It does pick up a slight vibration 48-53 mph.

I don't think 1 piece is even an option with a CCLWB. Maybe if you can afford aluminum or carbon fiber you could do it.
 
Thanks guys, I think the 1 piece with a cv at the tcase is best choice. I don't plan on any lvl 5 or higher trails for this truck. I an aiming for smooth soft ride as possible and still be able to some trails.
 
My suburban is a 1 piece, I'm also running a 4 inch shackle flip and stock 56's. It runs down the road fine, with the stock 2 joint drive shaft. I set the angle and burned in my perches after the lift.
 
I was under the burb today, and the 14bff pinion is pointed right at the out put shaft on the t case. So I am going to go with a cv 1 piece drive shaft. I need to switch from rear out put yoke to a flange.
Is this the correct flange for rear output np205 ( I believe my t case is a 72) https://www.offroaddesign.com/1350-...ft-2-pilot-for-aftermarket-cv-driveshaft.html
If it is, I will order it install measure and order my drive shaft.
 
Depends on what design head on the c/v .

Have you looked at ford superduty front shafts ? There 1350 and cheep used . Get one for like a 05-up newer . They tame a specific flange you can get from HAD / ORD / others .
 
I looked at them everyday before I retired. Not sure it will be long enough. I know I measured it once forgot to note it down. I'm having shaft made so pilot size will match.
 
cheeper to retube the shaft . but you choice i was just tossing out the idea . last one i got shipped from cali rust free was under 100 bucks .
 
I am looking at 63" with the current shaft. So what out put shaft flange would I use to put a retubed Super Duty shaft on the rear of my np205 ?
 
It mates to a flat flange. My 205 has the flat flange on both front and rear outputs with the 2 patterns, but is not stock.

Pic of front Super Duty shaft...

20210317_161308.jpg
 
yeah I have seen them in their native environment even r&r'd more than a few. Our fleet had at least 130 2011 f250 sd 4x4's probably another 100 f350 f450 and 50ish f550 .
I am mostly looking for flange info to fit the rear out put of a 1972 np205, 1 that will work with the SD shaft that will save me some money over a new complete custom shaft.
 
Still looking for a flange to use with the super duty shaft. The ORD flange has all threaded holes. The SD shaft flange has the threads so will need a flange with plain holes the correct spacing. I can't seem to find the pilot hole size or the bolt circle for the SD shaft. Torque king has some info, a lot actually, but not application specific.
any one know if this will work with sd front shaft ?

1DM3051-1310/1350/1410 - Flange 32 spline

Flange 1310/1350/1410 fit CV and non CV with 2" pilot
www.partsmike.com
 
If i recall the m1009 build i did in my sig line i picked jesse @ HIGH ANGLE DRIVELINE cause his flange can be used later for driveline ebrake option .
 
Yeah you did use HAD for the flange. I think PM flange is the same Paradise & Auburn are 20-30 minutes away from each other.
I guess I just get a SD shaft and measure be I order a flange
 
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