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1 Ton Rack and Pinion Steering on a SFA rig...

Deuling said:
Thats just it. Why wouldnt it work? If its heavy duty enough for todays 1 ton trucks... Its got a pressure assisted gear box.... I think it could be something kinda different, and with some time ibto designing it right i dont see why we couldnt make it safe and work right:dunno:
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Have any ideas on how you would tackle how far ahead of a hypothetical link mount/frame side pivot point the steering column would be? Do you think you could mount a double cardinan u joint on the shaft and get it aiming nearly straight at the axle and then clock the rack to compensate?
 
Stomis said:
Have any ideas on how you would tackle how far ahead of a hypothetical link mount/frame side pivot point the steering column would be? Do you think you could mount a double cardinan u joint on the shaft and get it aiming nearly straight at the axle and then clock the rack to compensate?
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Is this sarcasm or are you really asking? I cant tell :dunno:


You need more smiley faces :haha:


But to keep the shaft in place on the more horizontal side, use a midshift bearing type thing bolted to something, then for the more vertical have some type of slip yoke :dunno:. And yes aim the rack as far back as possible for less angles was my thought.
 
A parallel 4link with a panhard and crossover will cure bump steer. Go look up lumpdog on pirate and the sas he did on his suburban.
 
Deuling said:
No hes dead set on triangulated 4 link. You guys gotta remember the 91 afs frames are way wider up front and the steering box is on the inside of the frame which may allow for running the steering column easier.
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Then he has no choice to deal with horrible bump steer or full hydro steering... 3 link is a lot easier to package too, triangulated trucks often wind up tall to clear the links.
 
Russell said:
Then he has no choice to deal with horrible bump steer or full hydro steering... 3 link is a lot easier to package too, triangulated trucks often wind up tall to clear the links.
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Your a dream killer Russ :haha:
 
Seriously I wouldn't try to reinvent the wheel on a budget.

Stock style steering with a box can be made to run with as little bump steer as possible.

I say link and crossover.

If stock push pull can be made to work well in dunes then crossover would be better.
 
I just know that heath said he wanted to do true 4 link but didnt want to run full hydro for the bumpsteer reason so he did the 3 link radius arm setup style with the panhard. It rides good, but the guys running full hydro and 4 link look like its just SOOOO much more smooth.
 
Deuling said:
Is this sarcasm or are you really asking? I cant tell :dunno:


You need more smiley faces :haha:


But to keep the shaft in place on the more horizontal side, use a midshift bearing type thing bolted to something, then for the more vertical have some type of slip yoke :dunno:. And yes aim the rack as far back as possible for less angles was my thought.
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No I was dead serious but I think we have two totally different ideas on how it could possibly be done.

Deuling said:
I just know that heath said he wanted to do true 4 link but didnt want to run full hydro for the bumpsteer reason so he did the 3 link radius arm setup style with the panhard. It rides good, but the guys running full hydro and 4 link look like its just SOOOO much more smooth.
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See now I think thats just a false observation. There really isnt a ride difference between a well setup 3 link and a well set up double tri 4 link. The difference is in the packaging and that a 3 link walks to the side a little under droop.
 
And just so you guys know. This isnt something we thought of to get out on the cheap. My buddy will pay whatever it needs to get his truck how he wants it. It just so happened that the entire rack and pinion setup only costs $230 or so.
 
Stomis said:
O christ dont go giving me undeserving titles now :thumb:

Im a ****ing minnow in the big pond packed with large mouths of fab. Ill see if I can paintify something...
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Oh shut it. We all know your a pretty damn good fabmaster. Your isuzu thread gives me headaches thinking of all the geometry :haha:
 
Deuling said:
And just so you guys know. This isnt something we thought of to get out on the cheap. My buddy will pay whatever it needs to get his truck how he wants it. It just so happened that the entire rack and pinion setup only costs $230 or so.
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Add a zero onto the rack number for a quality full hydro system. If I still had my shop, I would love to have him pay me to try and make that work.
 
****ing horrible pictures BUT if I did attempt such a feat it would look like this.

Green is your axle tube. Red is the column and steering wheel. Blue nub off axle would be the angle of the rack input. Orange would be a long travel style PTO drive shaft setup as the steering shaft for the appropriate expand and collapse for suspension setup.

I think you're biggest enemy here will be routing that solid steering shaft around your upper links.

O and Id imagine this would necessitate some sort of heim joint support at the end of the column so you'd probably have to extend the column with a small shot of steering shaft with a heim so your steering shaft isnt trying to tear on the column.

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ktmoutfront said:
Add a zero onto the rack number for a quality full hydro system. If I still had my shop, I would love to have him pay me to try and make that work.
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He was going to go full hydro till I told him how sketchy it is on the road.

"PLEASE DONT TURN THIS INTO ANOTHER FULL HYDRO IS GOOD/BAD ON THE ROAD BECAUSE...." thread. Thats not what its about.

It would be sweet if there was a way to use the stock steering box, run crossover with full hrydro, and be able to take the drag link off for dune use, and slap it back on for the trip home..... But it doesnt sound like it would work :dunno:
 
Stomis said:
****ing horrible pictures BUT if I did attempt such a feat it would look like this.

Green is your axle tube. Red is the column and steering wheel. Blue nub off axle would be the angle of the rack input. Orange would be a long travel style PTO drive shaft setup as the steering shaft for the appropriate expand and collapse for suspension setup.

I think you're biggest enemy here will be routing that solid steering shaft around your upper links.

O and Id imagine this would necessitate some sort of heim joint support at the end of the column so you'd probably have to extend the column with a small shot of steering shaft with a heim so your steering shaft isnt trying to tear on the column.
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No thats pretty much my thoughts I think. The "midshift bearing" idea was just something to keep the shaft from wanting to move side to side...
 
Deuling said:
He was going to go full hydro till I told him how sketchy it is on the road.

"PLEASE DONT TURN THIS INTO ANOTHER FULL HYDRO IS GOOD/BAD ON THE ROAD BECAUSE...." thread. Thats not what its about.

It would be sweet if there was a way to use the stock steering box, run crossover with full hrydro, and be able to take the drag link off for dune use, and slap it back on for the trip home..... But it doesnt sound like it would work :dunno:
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Wait why wouldnt that work? Im not full hydro/hydro assist expert but I dont see why a double ended ram couldnt have tabs welded to the DOM arm between the knuckle and the ram for a draglink.

That is unless the steering box wont work as a control valve without the resistance from the draglink working against it. That may be.
 
The geometry on the sketch looks like it will bind. And if you have a foot of travel, the middle of the shaft will need at least 6" of clearance.
 
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