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10 bolt anti wrap kits?

Bending center pins means you're not torquing and re-torquing the U-bolts properly. Axle wrap may very well be an issue, but if you can't get the right hardware in there and torque properly it will fail again with the anti-wrap installed. What U-bolts are you using and torque cycle?

The anti-wrap kits don't fit any particular axle exactly on purpose. If you have no fab ability, you have no business welding on your suspension.

This is OK because a rear 10-bolt with BBC and oversize tires will fail at some point and you can move the anti-wrap to the larger rear axle. Less work to swap the axle now, though.
 
Chickntrk said:
IMO something is wrong if you are bending this many center pins…are the spring really soft and allowing the rear to rotate? You could weld on a set of longer perches from a place like Barnes or Ruff stuff, that went a long way on stopping axle wrap for me…
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Yeah I think they are sorta soft when I got them 10 years ago they were softer or something to improve ride quality I believe. They were like called EZ ride or some crap. Also the transmission has pretty aggressive shifts it's a gearstar stage 3 I believe so it shifts like it means it
 
Blue85 said:
Bending center pins means you're not torquing and re-torquing the U-bolts properly. Axle wrap may very well be an issue, but if you can't get the right hardware in there and torque properly it will fail again with the anti-wrap installed. What U-bolts are you using and torque cycle?

The anti-wrap kits don't fit any particular axle exactly on purpose. If you have no fab ability, you have no business welding on your suspension.

This is OK because a rear 10-bolt with BBC and oversize tires will fail at some point and you can move the anti-wrap to the larger rear axle. Less work to swap the axle now, though.
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I can assure you the u bolts are torqued and re torqued. I have the tools I have the space to do it but the whole rear end shifting has something to do with this the springs don't even stay lined up they kinda poke out if you were looking down at them from above.
 
Blue85 said:
Bending center pins means you're not torquing and re-torquing the U-bolts properly. Axle wrap may very well be an issue, but if you can't get the right hardware in there and torque properly it will fail again with the anti-wrap installed. What U-bolts are you using and torque cycle?

The anti-wrap kits don't fit any particular axle exactly on purpose. If you have no fab ability, you have no business welding on your suspension.

This is OK because a rear 10-bolt with BBC and oversize tires will fail at some point and you can move the anti-wrap to the larger rear axle. Less work to swap the axle now, though.
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They are some 5/8th ones I got online font recall where tho
 
ruff stuff also has GOOD ubolts . i have them on my trucks . i think he is using L&H brand rod .

in all my years L&H rod has never done me wrong . but i have had problems with others even ones that come in lift kits .

do the new center bolt trick like i said before .
 
sweetk30 said:
ruff stuff also has GOOD ubolts . i have them on my trucks . i think he is using L&H brand rod .

in all my years L&H rod has never done me wrong . but i have had problems with others even ones that come in lift kits .

do the new center bolt trick like i said before .
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Good to know, and I definitely will I think that with everything else will be solid
 
@nmxhustla have you been re-using u-bolts when the center pins pop ?

u-bolts are more a 1 time use item and not best to be reused as that is were loose clamp force and or failure happens . . . i found this out early on in my 4x4 days and almost lost a dana 60 front on 38" swampers on the highway . lucky it was a poker run and 1 friend had some tools and snugged them up and finished and monday i went in the back and bent up 3 new u-bolts and tossed them others .
 
when i do them i just buzz them down in a 180* x pattern even and run them tight . only problems was a few cheep lift kit brand crap u-bolts .

and like i said clamping force is much better on 5/8" rod over the gm stock 9/16" rod size .
 
sweetk30 said:
when i do them i just buzz them down in a 180* x pattern even and run them tight . only problems was a few cheep lift kit brand crap u-bolts .

and like i said clamping force is much better on 5/8" rod over the gm stock 9/16" rod size .
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Haha yeah I didn't even realize they made em smaller than 5/8 because when I got the truck it had a shitty block lift and even then it still had the 5/8 u bolts
 
Is it possible the center pin can't fit all the way into the spring pad or the spring pad isn't flat? Plenty of applications go 100's of thousands of miles on stock center pins and U-bolts.
 
Blue85 said:
Is it possible the center pin can't fit all the way into the spring pad or the spring pad isn't flat? Plenty of applications go 100's of thousands of miles on stock center pins and U-bolts.
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Nah man I seen with my own eyes it going into that pad perch right into the little hole because I had a feeling that was the issue too. I 100% believe the combination of softish leafs and a lift and the torque of the 454 are the culprit
 
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