CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
10 bolt balljoints/ alignment
- Thread starter K5Chris
- Start date
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Hell if we AZ guys get 1 full year from a set of balljoints we are doing really well, or not offroading enough, one of the two. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
You do not need to remove the adjuster sleeve to get the knuckle loose from the axle. Remove the knuckle first then the sleeve. It makes life alot easier.
Harley
You do not need to remove the adjuster sleeve to get the knuckle loose from the axle. Remove the knuckle first then the sleeve. It makes life alot easier.
Harley
K5 NUTT
1/2 ton status
Not to throw my two cents in...to late. Lol.
The adjusters can be a pain to get out...been there before...but a good dose of blue wrenc will solve that rust or not...
As far as camber adjutment...there are two methods...the first one i do not like and az wheelin breaks them...a new sleeve is used that has an offset to gain the camber needed...they also use a tapered washer under the castle nut...which tends to break so i allwasy use method number two...
Method two uses a shim in between the spindle and the knuckle to get the desired camber...never had a problem with this method. I usually take the vehicle in to an alignment shop first....get a reading...order shims...replace balljoints and install shims since its apart anyways and why do things twice?.
But simply leaving the adjuster in place is not the way to do the job correctly....it will work in a pinch...if you lack the tools and ability to do it right...
DW
The adjusters can be a pain to get out...been there before...but a good dose of blue wrenc will solve that rust or not...
As far as camber adjutment...there are two methods...the first one i do not like and az wheelin breaks them...a new sleeve is used that has an offset to gain the camber needed...they also use a tapered washer under the castle nut...which tends to break so i allwasy use method number two...
Method two uses a shim in between the spindle and the knuckle to get the desired camber...never had a problem with this method. I usually take the vehicle in to an alignment shop first....get a reading...order shims...replace balljoints and install shims since its apart anyways and why do things twice?.
But simply leaving the adjuster in place is not the way to do the job correctly....it will work in a pinch...if you lack the tools and ability to do it right...
DW
az-k5
1/2 ton status
[ QUOTE ]
Hell if we AZ guys get 1 full year from a set of balljoints we are doing really well, or not offroading enough, one of the two. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
You do not need to remove the adjuster sleeve to get the knuckle loose from the axle. Remove the knuckle first then the sleeve. It makes life alot easier.
Harley
[/ QUOTE ]
I almost got 6 months out of my last set (3 months each the two sets before). Then again, I was in screw it I'm going kinng pin mode. Rob has had his in for nearly 6 months and only gets DW two or three times every few hundred feet or so /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Yes, get the tool (a small punch and a good feel are better than not messing with it at all) and adjust them as per the spec. Get good ones, Moog or Spicer (aka perfect circle) it will make a difference. Don't use ball joint shims if it is out. Use spindle shims (often either is unnecessary) if it is out beyon fixable. Lastly, try to remember how it is done, cause with moderate/heavy wheeling it will become routine maintanence.
Hell if we AZ guys get 1 full year from a set of balljoints we are doing really well, or not offroading enough, one of the two. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
You do not need to remove the adjuster sleeve to get the knuckle loose from the axle. Remove the knuckle first then the sleeve. It makes life alot easier.
Harley
[/ QUOTE ]
I almost got 6 months out of my last set (3 months each the two sets before). Then again, I was in screw it I'm going kinng pin mode. Rob has had his in for nearly 6 months and only gets DW two or three times every few hundred feet or so /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Yes, get the tool (a small punch and a good feel are better than not messing with it at all) and adjust them as per the spec. Get good ones, Moog or Spicer (aka perfect circle) it will make a difference. Don't use ball joint shims if it is out. Use spindle shims (often either is unnecessary) if it is out beyon fixable. Lastly, try to remember how it is done, cause with moderate/heavy wheeling it will become routine maintanence.
ntaj*ep
1/2 ton status
[ QUOTE ]
What would cause the camber to be off?
[/ QUOTE ]
Lots of things can cause camber issues on a straight axle truck. A slight bend in the tube itself, to knuckle imperfections.
What would cause the camber to be off?
[/ QUOTE ]
Lots of things can cause camber issues on a straight axle truck. A slight bend in the tube itself, to knuckle imperfections.
