CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
10-bolt crush sleeve... 5/15/2008 - Update post #63
- Thread starter jonrpick
- Start date
Now I just gotta sift through all the debris on the garage floor and find the original one.
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
I have a big pipe wrench that I use to hold the yoke, and I have a 3/4" Snap-On ratchet with a cheater bar for tightening the nut. My impact isn't strong enough to crush a sleeve, and I wouldn't want to use it for that even if it would. I prefer the controllability of the big-a$$ed ratchet.
I like that idea.
Careful if you are using 1/2 inch drive stuff. I broke a breaker bar doing the crush sleeve on my 14b. I broke two of them doing my Kingpins.
I think anything 500 lb/ft and up is beyond 1/2 drive tools
I think anything 500 lb/ft and up is beyond 1/2 drive tools
Put some anti-seize on the threads of the pinion before you apply your medieval torque to it. I damaged the threads on a new factory pinion with a new nut trying to get a crush sleeve started. Now I always put a dab on before starting this beloved procedure and haven't had a problem since.
FWIW, I use the same equipment that Max uses. Much easier to "creep up" on the correct drag using this method.
FWIW, I use the same equipment that Max uses. Much easier to "creep up" on the correct drag using this method.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
The way I did mine in my 14FF was...
Clamp pinion carrier assembly in a vice (by the yoke), this will be harder on a diff in a vehicle.
Using 3/4" drive ratchet and old pinion nut tighten until you can go no more, then attach 4ft cheater bar and continue to tighten until you think you can not go anymore.
Put full 250# body weight and bounce on the end of the cheater bar hopeing the vice and work bench are secured properly and will not break off.
Just about the time you want to give up hit it one more time with your full body weight and you "should" feel it yeild. Once it starts to yeild the preload will jump up fast.
I replaced the old nut with the new pinion nut as soon as I felt the sleeve yeild and set my final bearing preload with the new nut.
I got to do it twice since I overcrushed the first sleeve I did
.
Dik
Clamp pinion carrier assembly in a vice (by the yoke), this will be harder on a diff in a vehicle.
Using 3/4" drive ratchet and old pinion nut tighten until you can go no more, then attach 4ft cheater bar and continue to tighten until you think you can not go anymore.
Put full 250# body weight and bounce on the end of the cheater bar hopeing the vice and work bench are secured properly and will not break off
.Just about the time you want to give up hit it one more time with your full body weight and you "should" feel it yeild. Once it starts to yeild the preload will jump up fast.
I replaced the old nut with the new pinion nut as soon as I felt the sleeve yeild and set my final bearing preload with the new nut.
I got to do it twice since I overcrushed the first sleeve I did
.Dik
Pookster
1/2 ton status
nothing to add about the pinion, but as for PSI...
if you are running 1/4th inch or 3/8th air tool lines and adapters, you probably will not get enough flow. Even if you have 140psi, the amount of air it can move is limited. Step up to 1/2" and you wont look back.
if you are running 1/4th inch or 3/8th air tool lines and adapters, you probably will not get enough flow. Even if you have 140psi, the amount of air it can move is limited. Step up to 1/2" and you wont look back.
This was 1/2" @ 140psi.
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
He means 1/2 inch air lines...mucho better flow
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Ya what he said.
the air lines themselves have a lot to do with the power output of your tool. Thats why they have the power rating as xxxcfm@90psi. Most home compressors cannot maintain that for more than a few seconds. You can get away with a 20 galloner running a half inch hose for a few seconds though, and low power items (air ratchets, nailers, etc) will be ok as well. But you cant go wrong with using the largest piping for the largest runs.
Ya what he said.
the air lines themselves have a lot to do with the power output of your tool. Thats why they have the power rating as xxxcfm@90psi. Most home compressors cannot maintain that for more than a few seconds. You can get away with a 20 galloner running a half inch hose for a few seconds though, and low power items (air ratchets, nailers, etc) will be ok as well. But you cant go wrong with using the largest piping for the largest runs.
Oh ok... I see what you're saying. That could definitely have been it. I was using the thin stuff that comes in a coil.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
the coil stuff? Like the yellow one you get at sears in a pack? THose are probably one of the most restrictive ones you can get!
You can acutally get some great goodyear ones from harbor freight for not that much money- just depends on the length you need to run. Just remember that the thicker hoses will also store a little bit more air (up to a gallon or two, depends on the length). Some regulators are only 3/8th, so you might have to upgrade that for best results.
I once tried increasing my hose length by using couplers- I ended up loosing so much power, it was rediculous. I thought my IR gun was getting old.
In a pinch, you can get these "high flow" adapters- since most are 1/4in, the high flow adapters allow the 3/8th lines to flow to their full capacity. However, they are not compatible with any other adapters.
You can acutally get some great goodyear ones from harbor freight for not that much money- just depends on the length you need to run. Just remember that the thicker hoses will also store a little bit more air (up to a gallon or two, depends on the length). Some regulators are only 3/8th, so you might have to upgrade that for best results.
I once tried increasing my hose length by using couplers- I ended up loosing so much power, it was rediculous. I thought my IR gun was getting old.
In a pinch, you can get these "high flow" adapters- since most are 1/4in, the high flow adapters allow the 3/8th lines to flow to their full capacity. However, they are not compatible with any other adapters.
Exactly that one... In fact, the compressor is a borrowed Craftsman, and that's the one that came with it.
Brodie
1/2 ton status
The big one weighs 91lbs. But I think 12,000 ft lbs would get the job done.
But I think 12,000 ft lbs would get the job done.
Ok... Make sure you read all this and take it all into account before answering.
I pulled out the pinion and crush sleeve. I measured it and the old one with the digital calipers. They spec out as follows:
Old: .591" New: .615"
So it needs to go about another .025" to be the same size as the original. That doesn't mean that it needs to go that far, or that that's far enough... just, that's the difference between the two.
It'll be hard to put that thing in the press and get just a few thousands of an inch crush on it... We're talking 2/3 of a millimeter here. (literally .66mm)
This is important...Now, as it was, it sure felt like I could move the whole pinion and yoke in and out more than .025". I could be wrong, probably should've put the dial indicator on there to see how much play I had, but oh well. The pinion nut was TIGHT by the way. I had to borrow another impact that didn't have as much power to get the nut back off.
I also noticed the design of the two sleeves. They are very different.
The original one is on the left, and the new one on the right.
Is it normal for them to be available with the "bead" either inward or outward?
Next question... The diameter of the pinion shaft is 1.317". The inside diameter of the "bead" on the new sleeve is 1.330". What if it starts to crush and the bead hits the pinion shaft, stopping it from moving any further?
So... Say that it needs to go further than .025" in order to be "right". Why can't I use the old one that has just a few thousand miles on it??? If the old wasn't crushed further than what I need with the new bearings, what would be the harm???
I pulled out the pinion and crush sleeve. I measured it and the old one with the digital calipers. They spec out as follows:
Old: .591" New: .615"
So it needs to go about another .025" to be the same size as the original. That doesn't mean that it needs to go that far, or that that's far enough... just, that's the difference between the two.
It'll be hard to put that thing in the press and get just a few thousands of an inch crush on it... We're talking 2/3 of a millimeter here. (literally .66mm)
This is important...Now, as it was, it sure felt like I could move the whole pinion and yoke in and out more than .025". I could be wrong, probably should've put the dial indicator on there to see how much play I had, but oh well. The pinion nut was TIGHT by the way. I had to borrow another impact that didn't have as much power to get the nut back off.
I also noticed the design of the two sleeves. They are very different.
The original one is on the left, and the new one on the right.
Is it normal for them to be available with the "bead" either inward or outward?
Next question... The diameter of the pinion shaft is 1.317". The inside diameter of the "bead" on the new sleeve is 1.330". What if it starts to crush and the bead hits the pinion shaft, stopping it from moving any further?
So... Say that it needs to go further than .025" in order to be "right". Why can't I use the old one that has just a few thousand miles on it??? If the old wasn't crushed further than what I need with the new bearings, what would be the harm???
Oh... and I just now realized how I can use the dial indicator on the press to determine how much I've crushed the sleeve...
Edit... WTF! 
What I did is, I put the crush sleeve between two arbor plates, and I'm pressing against the top one to exert even pressure across it. This is only a 12-ton press but that should be enough, right???!!!
With the dial indicator set on the top of the top arbor plate, I pulled down until the dial indicator showed I was going back up...???? I guess it was bending the plate!!!
Holy damnit... I torqued on the handle pretty hard, and I can't get that thing to budge.
After a few tries, I measured it again with the calipers. Not even .001 difference!!!!
Also... is it normal to hear popping noises from these cheap presses? I don't think I'm breaking it, it sounds like the paint is cracking from the thing being pushed so hard. Still, it makes me nervous. Could just be the paint on the arbor plates.
I can't BELIEVE this is taking so friggin' long...
Edit... WTF!
What I did is, I put the crush sleeve between two arbor plates, and I'm pressing against the top one to exert even pressure across it. This is only a 12-ton press but that should be enough, right???!!!
With the dial indicator set on the top of the top arbor plate, I pulled down until the dial indicator showed I was going back up...????
I guess it was bending the plate!!!Holy damnit... I torqued on the handle pretty hard, and I can't get that thing to budge.
After a few tries, I measured it again with the calipers. Not even .001 difference!!!!
Also... is it normal to hear popping noises from these cheap presses? I don't think I'm breaking it, it sounds like the paint is cracking from the thing being pushed so hard. Still, it makes me nervous. Could just be the paint on the arbor plates.
I can't BELIEVE this is taking so friggin' long...
Last edited:
Anyone....??? Bueller???
wasted wages
1 ton status
I dont think crushing it in a press is your answer,,if you installed new bearings and races the preload and caliper reading will be different from your old one.
I use the 3/4 breaker bar and pipe method mentioned above...once the sleeve begins to crush a small amount will make a big difference.
you are using an inch pound torquer to measure the preload right ???
BTW,,,I've never seen one that folds inward...that may be your problem...
I use the 3/4 breaker bar and pipe method mentioned above...once the sleeve begins to crush a small amount will make a big difference.
you are using an inch pound torquer to measure the preload right ???
BTW,,,I've never seen one that folds inward...that may be your problem...
