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10-bolt crush sleeve... 5/15/2008 - Update post #63

jonrpick

jonrpick

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I can NOT get this thing to budge. I opened up the regulator all the way and ran the compressor until it wasn't building pressure anymore (around 140psi) and...

Nothing.

:(

Do I need to get/rent a bigger compressor?
 
I use my shop press to get them started, usually takes about 5 or 6 tons before thay even start to crush.
 
What are you using to hold the yoke still?
If you don;t have a big enough impact, then use a big breaker bar to get it started.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I use my shop press to get them started, usually takes about 5 or 6 tons before thay even start to crush.
Click to expand...


I take it a visual is needed to tell when it starts moving? How do you know when it starts moving or when to stop?
 
readymix said:
What are you using to hold the yoke still?
If you don;t have a big enough impact, then use a big breaker bar to get it started.
Click to expand...


I have a big piece of angle iron with 2 holes drilled in the end. I'm securing it to the yoke with 2 of the screws that hold the u-joints in.

My breaker bar almost broke trying to loosen this bastage up the 1st time.
 
It's easy to see when it starts to crush. Once it starts it will crush FAST so be ready to stop. Once you've done this then you can continue with it in the axle.
 
4X4HIGH said:
It's easy to see when it starts to crush. Once it starts it will crush FAST so be ready to stop. Once you've done this then you can continue with it in the axle.
Click to expand...

Ok... I figure I'll sandwich it between the two arbor plates and crush it that way... That should exert very even pressure across it.
 
I went with a crush sleeve eliminator from Randy's R&P on my 10b front. Takes a little longer to set up. Still got to be able to torque it around 250 ft lbs (I think). I was going to make one for my 14sf rear but got in a hurry and ended up using the crush sleeve.
 
85CUCV said:
I went with a crush sleeve eliminator from Randy's R&P on my 10b front. Takes a little longer to set up. Still got to be able to torque it around 250 ft lbs (I think). I was going to make one for my 14sf rear but got in a hurry and ended up using the crush sleeve.
Click to expand...


What is it? Just a spacer?
 
Spacer and a shim set. If you are using the old gear set you measure the old crush sleeve and add several thousandths. Torque and check preload. Remove shim and re-torque till you get the correct preload.

There is a huge difference in a impact wrenches. I got a cheap one at home and it wouldn't break loose my pinion bolt on my 14sf at 110 psi Went to the farm and got a better impact and took it off easily.
 
85CUCV said:
Spacer and a shim set. If you are using the old gear set you measure the old crush sleeve and add several thousandths. Torque and check preload. Remove shim and re-torque till you get the correct preload.

There is a huge difference in a impact wrenches. I got a cheap one at home and it wouldn't break loose my pinion bolt on my 14sf at 110 psi Went to the farm and got a better impact and took it off easily.
Click to expand...

I borrowed one from another CK5er, and this is the one he uses at the Chevy Dealership where he works. I didn't pay attention to what brand it was, but it was probably a pretty good one.

I was semi-expecting this though. I've heard those crush sleeves are a biotch to crush at first.
 
jonrpick said:
Is there a crush sleeve on the 14BFF?
Click to expand...

Yep.

BTW, a better impact will crush that crush sleeve. I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2" impact (run at 90 psi) and it has crushed every crush sleeve I've done (including a 14 bolt which is much harder to crush than the 10 bolt).
 
38377k5 said:
Yep.

BTW, a better impact will crush that crush sleeve. I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2" impact (run at 90 psi) and it has crushed every crush sleeve I've done (including a 14 bolt which is much harder to crush than the 10 bolt).
Click to expand...

This was a 1/2" running at 140psi. :confused:

I'll try to rent one this week. Maybe I'll try a 3/4" drive. I will try using the press first to get it started though.
 
jonrpick said:
This was a 1/2" running at 140psi. :confused:

I'll try to rent one this week. Maybe I'll try a 3/4" drive. I will try using the press first to get it started though.
Click to expand...

The torque that an impact can produce is largely based on its quality. Most 1/2" impacts are probably not up to the task. This one is pretty similar to the one I have.


I've done a few rearends without air tools and it sucks. When i set them up now I just hold the yoke with my hand and hit the nut with the impact.
 
38377k5 said:
The torque that an impact can produce is largely based on its quality. Most 1/2" impacts are probably not up to the task. This one is pretty similar to the one I have.


I've done a few rearends without air tools and it sucks. When i set them up now I just hold the yoke with my hand and hit the nut with the impact.
Click to expand...

I was holding the yoke by hand at first... After repeatedly hitting it with the impact for long durations, it started to hurt a bit... :doah: Now I feel like my hand is bruised. That's why I put the angle-iron on there (I'd previously used that to hold the pinion still when I pulled it off).

I just thought of something...

I wonder how close the original crush sleeve was. I mean, the distance between the inner and outer pinion bearings should be the same as before, even with new bearings as long as the housing hasn't changed, correct?

My point being, if it wasn't crushed all the way (meaning, I previously had too little preload on the bearings) could it be used?

Thought #2... I put the original crush sleeve in the press along side the new one. It wouldn't actually touch the top arbor plate, so I'd just use it as a visual guide to tell when the new one started crushing.
 
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