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10b R&P change (tech)

No problem, I have done lots of R&P changes and locker installs. Here are a few things that will help in case you did not know them. They are just in a random order.

  • Use set-up bearings on the pinion until you get the depth correct, then put on new ones.
  • Don't use a crush sleeve while setting pinion depth.
  • The 10B carrier is easy to set-up since the shims go outside the carrier.
  • Proper pinion depth measurements can only be made when your BL is pretty close to right on. Be sure to set it everytime you run a pattern.
  • Tighten the carrier caps to spec before running a pattern.
  • Apply resistance to the carrier when you run a pattern.
  • Mix the gear marking compound with 80-90 to thin it out a little bit. It makes it easier to read the pattern.
  • Good luck holding all the carrier shims in place while trying to install them....it is easier with the help of a friend, or remove teh axle from the truck. BTW, Put the smaller shims inside the stack and the larger ones at the outside. That way you do dont bend the little .010 ones.
Post up if you run into any issues at all.
 
readymix said:
No problem, I have done lots of R&P changes and locker installs. Here are a few things that will help in case you did not know them. They are just in a random order.
  • Use set-up bearings on the pinion until you get the depth correct, then put on new ones.
  • Don't use a crush sleeve while setting pinion depth.
  • The 10B carrier is easy to set-up since the shims go outside the carrier.
  • Proper pinion depth measurements can only be made when your BL is pretty close to right on. Be sure to set it everytime you run a pattern.
  • Tighten the carrier caps to spec before running a pattern.
  • Apply resistance to the carrier when you run a pattern.
  • Mix the gear marking compound with 80-90 to thin it out a little bit. It makes it easier to read the pattern.
  • Good luck holding all the carrier shims in place while trying to install them....it is easier with the help of a friend, or remove teh axle from the truck. BTW, Put the smaller shims inside the stack and the larger ones at the outside. That way you do dont bend the little .010 ones.
Post up if you run into any issues at all.
Click to expand...
Looks like we are going to provide the pictorial "how-to" on 10b R&P and/or rebuild, right chere in CK5.
I have the factory manual also. Did you notice the pinion nut solution?
More tomorrow.:D
 
Everybody must get stoned

Heres one for anybody that may be following along. Do not skip this step, it really does make a difference. Stone the mating surfaces between the ring and the carrier.

ring.jpg

carrier.jpg
 
I just saw your setup for the pinion nut. I see how it works......good idea, but how does the left bar attach to the yoke?
 
smokkey1 said:
having fun :D I know I am........ let's see who get's finished first by sunday night....
Click to expand...
Justin, I'll claim on schedule with getting the front axle and rear brakes done by Sunday sack time. I think thats a relaxed schedule.:cool1:
 
readymix said:
I just saw your setup for the pinion nut. I see how it works......good idea, but how does the left bar attach to the yoke?
Click to expand...
The bar I used is the standard GM trunk bumper jack. I think I'm gonna cut off the tit and slide off the ratchet and use that as my shop lever, those things are very stout. HiLift bar might work, but I don't trust it for a bending moment like that, its cast iron as opposed to the bumper jack's bent sheet.
The only screw clamp I'd recommend is the IDEAL. This one is "3 1/2" so 12, 14 & D60 has to be larger.

yoke.jpg
 
I see now. I useally use a piece of angle stock and drill two holes in it. Then attach it to the yoke with bolts.
What I really need is one of these. Would be easy to make.
 
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That's a slick pinion tool.
Pic 1, Yeah I know thats outrageous I already had two 6" aluminum cubes laying around. About 1 1/2 hr. to get a good start on that interference fit.
Pic 2, Seems like no matter how many there are, left hand thread gets down to thinking about each one.:haha:

P6170398.JPG

P6170399.JPG
 
I had a machined bracket design in mind, realized it wasn't practical.
Enough lunchtime, time to press on (pinion next).
Justin and I are sort-of racing right now.:haha:
 
Turns out one of the sleeves from a suspension tool kit, is a perfect sloppy fit.:D
Well, ready to return to the axle hsg.
Time for a break now. I may stop today with loading the hsg, do the measuring tomorrow.

P6170401.JPG

P6170402.JPG
 
By "set-up" brgs do you mean the old ones(?) because thats whats going on. I'm just regearing the front axle with the old brgs. The rear axle will include all new brgs.
Also compared the new crushable with the one that came out; old one at .600, new at .650.
 
Nope. I mean a bearing with a slightly larger ID so that you can remove it by hand. It makes it easier to set the pinion depth since you do not need apress to change out the shims over and over again.
 
readymix said:
Nope. I mean a bearing with a slightly larger ID so that you can remove it by hand. It makes it easier to set the pinion depth since you do not need apress to change out the shims over and over again.
Click to expand...
My naim ees Manuel Labor.:haha:
I'll fit these and if its a mess, I'll get some Monday. Definetely before the rear axle, that will be all new.
Is that a NAPA type commodity?
 
Nope. It is a pull them and attack them with a dremel sanding disk type commodity.
I do know that some can be bought from RR&P but I always make my own out of the old ones from the diff.

It really does make the job easier.
 
I surfed real quick, there's a bunch a places that sell "kits". I'll look some more and find brgs individually (I think). I've chased down brgs before for work.
Would you say that having set-ups handy, cuts the labor by ~half?
 
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