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10b R&P change (tech)

readymix said:
Good job so far. 10 Bolt rear also.

Make setup bearings as I posted above. It will make you life much easier
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I'll address "set-up" brgs on Saturday.:D
Edit: Just figured it out, no need for set-up brgs on the 10b carrier. The shims are outboard of the brgs. The only place that could benefit from set-up brgs, on a 10b, is the large pinion. Its quicker to punch & press that brg., than to hone a set-up.
Boy, 10b is getting into that service-ablity range like spindle brgs.
There's the trade-off on the load rating.
 
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Here's an interesting TidBit; so I twisted-off one of the cap bolts. Its a clicker torque wrench so assume all four were stretched. Immediately go order four from local Chevy, on Monday. Tues. buy some industrial bolts from McMaster-Carr, just in case. I went to will call for the McMaster-Carr so shipping wasn't charged, if they were shipped, the individual cost would have been $1.50 (ea.). Official Chevy bolts are $10.11 ea. In the pic, black one is 1985, silver one is $10 2006, Zinc one is $1.50. They're all Grade 8.
I'm not even going to reuse any, torque once and if its removed, toss it.
I could have use a local hardware store bolt, but they typically don't carry 2.25 long 7/16X14 Grade 8 bolts.:D

bolts.jpg
 
OK Readymix, here they is. Its the three with the clean heel, 09:00 and 03:00.
So left clicky on the pic for close-up.

gear1.jpg

gear2.jpg
 
From all that I've read, there's a distinct torque rise to initate the cripple on the sleeve, even to the point of starting the cripple offline in a press.
Or is it just a matter of assemble all the pinion parts and wind-down the flange nut until the torque jumps, and then go slow until you reach 15 in. lbs.?
Now going to the rear R&P, I'll do a pattern check on that one before I disassemble it, just as a bit of info as to where the factory set it.:D
 
I just torque the pinion nut down until I get to the correct running torque. Then put on a "new" pinion nut and the pinion seal.
Be sure that you have gear oil on the pinion bearings when you set the pre-load, and the carrier removed.
 
Yeah, I figured out the answer to my question, and what you said. I may or may not get back to it today, but Fri. night at the latest.:D
 
readymix said:
Nope. It is a pull them and attack them with a dremel sanding disk type commodity.
I do know that some can be bought from RR&P but I always make my own out of the old ones from the diff.

It really does make the job easier.
Click to expand...
What my friend MISF did was use a small engine bore hone on the ID of the old bearing. Honed it to *just* slip over the pinion shaft.

BTW, I do believe that Hi-Lift jack bars are steel and not iron. I've had a pretty serious bend in one (7k lbs + angled ground = 10"+ arc) and it came right back.
 
:haha: I just came from the thread on regear in Garage:haha: I got my head up my rear end this weekend.:haha:
Edit; I looked. Yeah, the HiLift bar does look like "I" bar steel. My memory said cast.:crazy:
 
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Pinion nut torque is too much for the screw type hose clamp. I'll have a pic of plan "B" shortly. Stopped work on the front axle and switching to the rear. I can still DD while I finish the front. I'll upload pics at lunchtime.
 
For 185Km, not bad. There's shimming been done after factory, so I'll measure what was in there and match it to start. Shims in the kit are easier to handle. You can see metal on the magnet, probably from the "new" NoSlip installed ~2 years ago.

241.jpg

242.jpg
 
Here's an updated version of putting the HiLift bar to the companion flange. This is removal of the rear flange nut. Turns out it didn't need significant force at all, I did it by hand with the breaker bar.
I don't have a pic, but I'm putting in the large race for the pinion. Its a BIg iTCH.
Going back a few steps, the carrier didn't have any preload. The brg caps basically fell out without the bolts. The carrier did just plop down into the hsg.
I guess you could say I'm not cutting short any usefull life of this axle assy.:haha:

P6240427.JPG
 
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Looks like the pattern has walked around on the ring gear in the old rearend. Probably due to the lack of pre-load. That also makes it a weak set-up, Much more resistant to breakage when the carier is in there tight.

Also looks like the BL is too much with the pattern way off center like that.
 
Well, had to go attend to some other biz over the weekend. Got the front pinion preload. The pic shows the set-up that was finally robust enough to get the reqd. torque. Even that bends the HiLift bar a little.

P6260433.jpg
 
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