What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

14 Bolt FF Stuck Drum

K

K5Pappi

Registered Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Posts
38
Reaction score
14
Location
Bonney Lake, WA
Hey Guys,

I just picked up a 14 Bolt FF rear end off of a square donor and the damn drum is stuck. I took out the axle, bearing keeper, and race but the damn thing seems to be stuck on the brake cylinder side. I'm assuming the brakes are seized. Any ideas on how to get this off? it I remove the brake cylinder bolt (see image) will that allow me to remove the drum?

drum-brake-jpg.3133132
 
that wont do it . . .

need to pop adjuster threw little hole ...... or bang out 8 studs and pull hub and then cut adjuster .

that BIG NUT is not going to help you let alone just come off easy at all .
 
The 2 things circled in green are the shoe hold down springs you could nip the heads off those and it would help a spring kit is cheap to replace if you can't get the adjuster to back off. Just and option.
 
mrgoodwrench said:
The 2 things circled in green are the shoe hold down springs you could nip the heads off those and it would help a spring kit is cheap to replace if you can't get the adjuster to back off. Just and option.
Click to expand...
32.jpg

I was able to remove the hold-down spring pins but no luck. My thought is that my e-brake cable is stuck. It looks like whoever cut the e-cable pinched it while the e-brake was set. I was able to knock the cylinder out of place but still no luck. Any other suggestions?
 
Hmm I guess I'd pull the big nut at the top and air hammer or hammer the stud through the last thing still holding should be the top piece and it should come off if you pull the nut and drive the stud through
 
mrgoodwrench said:
Hmm I guess I'd pull the big nut at the top and air hammer or hammer the stud through the last thing still holding should be the top piece and it should come off if you pull the nut and drive the stud through
Click to expand...
My exact thought. I'm soaking it with PB plaster overnight and I'll crack that nut with my air impact tomorrow and slam the stud through. Seems like the only thing holding it together at this point or attempt to cut the springs through the cylinder hole.
 
K5Pappi said:
My exact thought. I'm soaking it with PB plaster overnight and I'll crack that nut with my air impact tomorrow and slam the stud through. Seems like the only thing holding it together at this point or attempt to cut the springs through the cylinder hole.
Click to expand...
I looked it up, and if I'm not mistaken the large nut on the back is meant to hold the anchor pin from backing out. It will not do anything as @sweetk30 stated. I'll need to get some cutters through the cylinder hole and cut the springs or try and slip them over the anchor pin which sounds impossible without seeing what I'm doing.
 
Hmm guess I'm not sure what the big nut does then I've never removed it. I've had good luck going in through the adjuster hole backing off the adjuster and then if that's not enough prying the adjuster up and off the shoes with a big strong flat blade screw driver and once the adjuster comes off the shoes it's always come apart easily for me.
 
K5Pappi said:
I took out the axle, bearing keeper, and race but the damn thing seems to be stuck on the brake cylinder side.
Click to expand...
I've read this a couple times and just want to make sure I understand correctly. You took out the lock nut, the lock ring/washer and the adjusting nut?? Because on a full floater all the bearings/races come out the back. Just want to make sure you didn't miss the inner nut. Heres a cutaway. 1000031950.jpg
 
Have you soaked the adjuster down with penetrant and tried to adjust it in as small as it will go? I read and reread the thread and don't see where you have, but I could be blind.

In the diagram with the red brake parts it is labeled #9, accessible from the back side thru a slotted hole. In your pic in post #3 it is to the right of the green circle. Stick a big standard screwdriver or brake adjusting tool in there and rotate upward.
 
Take the p brake cable loose from the backing plate, since it is damage allready do what ever it takes to release the tension
 
Just a thought, but on my OEM k5 drums, teh pads had worn themselves down into the drums so bad that they would not allow the drum to slide over the pads and come off. I drilled off the retainer clips from the back side and unbolted the wheel cylinder. Then I spun the drum around and squirted penetrating oil EVERYWHERE inside. Then I started in on it with a 2lb hammer and some pry bars. It SUCKED!

Since the top of the shoes are held in behind the springs and retainer butterfly tab thing, you can't release them from the outside.
 
First, back off the auto adjuster. Two screwdrivers through the bottom slot. One to lift the arm, one to turn the adjuster off it isn't rusted solid.

Then, be sure you removed both lock nuts and retainer from the spindle.

If it won't budge after that, use a brass drift and/ or hammer to knock the studs out of the drum/ bearing hub so you can pull the bearing hub. Then you can get inside the drum with pry bars to free up the brake hardware.
 
mrgoodwrench said:
Hmm guess I'm not sure what the big nut does then I've never removed it. I've had good luck going in through the adjuster hole backing off the adjuster and then if that's not enough prying the adjuster up and off the shoes with a big strong flat blade screw driver and once the adjuster comes off the shoes it's always come apart easily for me.
Click to expand...
Sorry if this is a stupid question but it's been a long time since I've messed with drums. Do I turn the adjuster up or downward to loosen the shoes? I had the adjuster soaking in PB Blaster all night as well.
 
Polymath said:
Just a thought, but on my OEM k5 drums, teh pads had worn themselves down into the drums so bad that they would not allow the drum to slide over the pads and come off. I drilled off the retainer clips from the back side and unbolted the wheel cylinder. Then I spun the drum around and squirted penetrating oil EVERYWHERE inside. Then I started in on it with a 2lb hammer and some pry bars. It SUCKED!

Since the top of the shoes are held in behind the springs and retainer butterfly tab thing, you can't release them from the outside.
Click to expand...
I was able to remove the retaining spring pin so in theory the pads are only being held on by the anchor pin. The e-brake cable is sinched tight on that thing. I'm going to try and back off the adjuster and if I have no luck with that I'll try cutting the springs connected to the anchor pin.
 
Backing plates are replaceable

Have a torch or plasma? Cut the center out of the backing plate off the axle
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom