BILTIT
1/2 ton status
There must be because i had to grind down the stud head diameter, not sure if its only with DRW studs or not.
CK5
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14 bolt full floater question?
- Thread starter dominic
- Start date
dominic
1/2 ton status
now now guys dont start fighting,I have a 14bff in the shed and I'm not planning on installing it just yet,I want to explode the 10 bolt I got in the rear first,ahahah,but I am wondering what it takes to convert them drum brakes to disc brake,alot of you gave me some good advice and thanks by the way,some good first posts there conceptcustoms,you say you can get me everything I need to do the switch?what year rotors are needed,you say gm 3/4 ton front rotors?but what year?as for the brackets I dont want the weld on type,I want the ones that bolt on the end of the axle tubes.and if I do decide to buy parts to do the switch I would like to bye a kit that as everything I need in the kit to do the switch,if this exist,maybe it dont and you have to bey all the parts separate.I dont know you guys tell me
BILTIT
1/2 ton status
It is easy to do. I bought brackets online.
http://www.diy4x.com/brakes.htm
You then go down to your parts store and order rotors, calipers, studs, flex hoses.
You buy everything for a '77-'86 3/4Ton front diff.
Being in canada everything is more. I think i have about $600CAD into the swap.
Some tricks, if you have some old calipers you can turn them in and get the core charge back for the new ones.
http://www.diy4x.com/brakes.htm
You then go down to your parts store and order rotors, calipers, studs, flex hoses.
You buy everything for a '77-'86 3/4Ton front diff.
Being in canada everything is more. I think i have about $600CAD into the swap.
Some tricks, if you have some old calipers you can turn them in and get the core charge back for the new ones.
dominic
1/2 ton status
I like them brackets at diy4x.com,thanks for the info Biltit,oh ya thanks for telling me what year rotors and calipres I will need.so the rotor from front 3/4 ton with the old hub on the 14bff drum will mate together?
BILTIT
1/2 ton status
Yup.
ConceptCustoms
Registered Member
As Biltit said, yup...
just save yourself a few headaches, and have the hub turned (same machine that does the brakes) before trying to mount the rotor, and don't paint either before mounting, have the correct studs pressed in, then paint if desired for corrosion resistance. Reason for this, again is runout tolerance. Clean machined surfaces make for long life and low maintainance.
The OEM style replacement rotors have a recess that is smaller than the diameter of the stock wheel studs by about .065 inches, and yes, this is where I made the statement earlier that people are using the wrong studs (SRW and DRW both have the exact same head, knurl and knurl lenght dimensions, only the thread length and tang is different). Almost everywhere I have looked for rotors, the stud recess is very very close to OEM size. I'm not saying that no one makes anything different, there might be some small differences, but more than not, they are all mfg'd to the same spec. It very much appears that the stud has been pressed in all the way, but in fact it is not, and causes the wedge effect, therefore breaking the rotor after a few cycles of get pretty hot, then cool down, retorque lugnuts, heat and cool again.
At least Biltit had the foresight to grind the stud to fit correctly (hopefully you kept it cool during the grinding). Good job! If you don't have the studs already, go to NAPA, they will be able to find studs for you that actually fit without the grinding (not good to heat a Grade 8 treated metal) if they won't take the time, I will. Another point for you Dominic, anything from about 79-86 (K20) will work, I usually order 85, for some very slight mfg differences. Some earlier will work, but in these years you may see interchangeable D44's and GM 10Bolt, pay attention, and do your reasearch.
As mentioned earlier (and very good point to boot), there are 2 versions, pre 87 14bff, rotor behind hub, and then the rotor in front of hub (much easier to service), but these are not so common, because the studs and mtg hardware are metric during the later years, and finding a hub and rotor for the front gets a little harder to find, as these years, you start to see the IFS setups in the 2500's and up.
If you currently have the std caliper on the front, to make for an economy build, clean these up and use them for the rear. Like I said earlier, get the HD 3/4 ton calipers (they are much larger, but the same mounting dimensions) for the front so you don't have to mess with brake balance and proportion valve crap, the front brakes always have more stopping power.
Brackets are the cheap part, DIY, ORD, etc. are all just fine, I kinda like the ruffstuffspecialtiesdotcom brackets, they are the ones I use and would provide with my kits. Not to mention, Dan is happy to talk to you forever about anything, tell him I said Hi.. maybe thats why we get along so well.. anyway
You will need front 8 lug hub assy, and backing plate for the correct mounting, as the OD of the rotors are larger also.
just save yourself a few headaches, and have the hub turned (same machine that does the brakes) before trying to mount the rotor, and don't paint either before mounting, have the correct studs pressed in, then paint if desired for corrosion resistance. Reason for this, again is runout tolerance. Clean machined surfaces make for long life and low maintainance.
The OEM style replacement rotors have a recess that is smaller than the diameter of the stock wheel studs by about .065 inches, and yes, this is where I made the statement earlier that people are using the wrong studs (SRW and DRW both have the exact same head, knurl and knurl lenght dimensions, only the thread length and tang is different). Almost everywhere I have looked for rotors, the stud recess is very very close to OEM size. I'm not saying that no one makes anything different, there might be some small differences, but more than not, they are all mfg'd to the same spec. It very much appears that the stud has been pressed in all the way, but in fact it is not, and causes the wedge effect, therefore breaking the rotor after a few cycles of get pretty hot, then cool down, retorque lugnuts, heat and cool again.
At least Biltit had the foresight to grind the stud to fit correctly (hopefully you kept it cool during the grinding). Good job! If you don't have the studs already, go to NAPA, they will be able to find studs for you that actually fit without the grinding (not good to heat a Grade 8 treated metal) if they won't take the time, I will. Another point for you Dominic, anything from about 79-86 (K20) will work, I usually order 85, for some very slight mfg differences. Some earlier will work, but in these years you may see interchangeable D44's and GM 10Bolt, pay attention, and do your reasearch.
As mentioned earlier (and very good point to boot), there are 2 versions, pre 87 14bff, rotor behind hub, and then the rotor in front of hub (much easier to service), but these are not so common, because the studs and mtg hardware are metric during the later years, and finding a hub and rotor for the front gets a little harder to find, as these years, you start to see the IFS setups in the 2500's and up.
If you currently have the std caliper on the front, to make for an economy build, clean these up and use them for the rear. Like I said earlier, get the HD 3/4 ton calipers (they are much larger, but the same mounting dimensions) for the front so you don't have to mess with brake balance and proportion valve crap, the front brakes always have more stopping power.
Brackets are the cheap part, DIY, ORD, etc. are all just fine, I kinda like the ruffstuffspecialtiesdotcom brackets, they are the ones I use and would provide with my kits. Not to mention, Dan is happy to talk to you forever about anything, tell him I said Hi.. maybe thats why we get along so well.. anyway
You will need front 8 lug hub assy, and backing plate for the correct mounting, as the OD of the rotors are larger also.
Last edited by a moderator:
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I dunno, my rotors had plenty of visible gap around the head of the stud.
I have plenty of room around the heads of my studs too. D44HD rotors and calipers.
Before this goes any further Conceptcustoms, I'd like to mention a couple of things.
#1, if you're promoting your business here you need a vendor tag. Either be here as an individual and an enthusiast and leave out the email, ph #'s, and pricing for your products, or pony up like the rest.
#2 Lose the attitude, vendor or not if I continue to see the condescending attitude you'll soon find yourself playing with the banned.
Clearly there are quite a few variations in rotors and studs. I've been runing my rear disks for 7 years without trouble, my studs seat and my rotors run true. It's certainly an area that should be checked, but of the couple of thousand guys here running disks not one has had a catastrophic rotor failure. Rear disk kits have been sold by various vendors here since at least the last 8 years now.
Rene
Before this goes any further Conceptcustoms, I'd like to mention a couple of things.
#1, if you're promoting your business here you need a vendor tag. Either be here as an individual and an enthusiast and leave out the email, ph #'s, and pricing for your products, or pony up like the rest.
#2 Lose the attitude, vendor or not if I continue to see the condescending attitude you'll soon find yourself playing with the banned.
Clearly there are quite a few variations in rotors and studs. I've been runing my rear disks for 7 years without trouble, my studs seat and my rotors run true. It's certainly an area that should be checked, but of the couple of thousand guys here running disks not one has had a catastrophic rotor failure. Rear disk kits have been sold by various vendors here since at least the last 8 years now.
Rene
ConceptCustoms
Registered Member
Alrighty then, I'll just excuse myself from Dominic's post. No attitude intended, just information and safety.
Then you won't mind when I edit out all your ph numbers, email addy's and pricing then...
Rene
