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14 Bolt Ring Gear Code and Inspection Help Needed

folkenheath said:
I think it depends on what you prefer and how you plan to drive it.

Do you want steep gears for wheeling and racing, or highway gears for lower RPM on the freeway?

In OD your 4.88s will turn into 3.66 effectively. You also have the benefit with the 4L80E you can lock the converter.

Locking the converter keeps the trans temps down as the converter makes the most heat. The trans won't care what RPM your engine is at on the freeway, no concern there.

However, with just 35" tires and a 496 brodix head EFI big block, it surely don't need 4.88s to be fast.

I find for my needs the 4.10s work well as I can put it on 4 LO and then they are 8.04:1 gears in the sand and still hit 75 MPH in 3rd gear. Low range also keeps my trans temps down. If I had 4.88s I would hit the rev limiter before the race was over in low range. If I put it in high range I lose about a truck length in the short race.

I do want a 4L80E instead of the TH400 as my converter slips and I can't lock it up and no OD puts me approaching 3K at about 70MPH, which means I usually only go 65-68 on the freeway to keep the RPM down. A lockup TH400 is way to expensive so I will likely build a 4L80E for it in the near future, then got OD and lockup, but it weighs another 100 lbs.

As for the ARB locker. I actually prefer a Detroit for what I do. An ARB is either open, or a spool. Which means when its locked, its solid, and when you go to turn it will fight you somewhat. You can disengage it, but not while its already under load. This is magnified in the front axle as I have seen situations where people couldn't turn the steering wheel because the front axle was bound up, and its too late to disengage while its bound up. The detroit does not get bound up like that.

With a Detroit, think of it like a ratchet. Either wheel can go faster than the ring gear, but neither wheel can go slower. So when you turn the outside wheel will disengage and turn faster, and then reengage. I have Detroits front and back. And when I turn in 4WD off-roading it doesn't bind up and want to go straight. I don't like when people say their Detroit locker will "lock" when needed for traction. It's actually the other way around. Its pretty much always locked, and it only unlocks one tire to allow it to go faster, but neither can ever go slower. This also means when you are turning a curve, and you apply throttle, it will reengage the other tire if the inner tire spins at all. Also, if you let off the throttle on a curve, it will go from driving the inner tire to braking on the outer tire. But it's predictable, does it every time.

The downfall is they have a little slop which is required to be able to "reverse" the ratchet when you put it in reverse, but I don't mind it.

I would not drive your rig in winter unless you want it to turn to rust here in the rest belt. But then you do lose the enjoyment in the winter.

Does your carrier have 3 or 4 pins?

It looks like that ring gear is very thick, it might be a special 4.88 gear for a different carrier. Does a 14 bolt even have different carriers like a 10 or 12 bolt? I forgot the answer to that. I haven't opened my 14 bolt other than change the gear oil once since 2003 when I put the Detroit and new seals in it. Now that I said that I will probably brake something.
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My original thoughts, over a year ago, was to get a Detroit. It is also a little bit less expensive. I could get a Detroit for the front and rear for the price of the ARB. I'm also still thinking of dropping to 4.10 gears.
 
The detroit for a 14 bolt only fits in a stock open carrier. If its a "gov lock" it won't fit. Which is why I asked if the spider was a 3 or 4 pin unit. I have't seen enough to tell from your pictures yet. Its pretty easy to tell in person.
 
Thats a gov lock you have there so factor in a new carrier unless you're getting the arb. Id keep the 4.88s, 2500 on the highway is nothing, newer vehicles have everyone thinking they cant turn over 1500 RPM....I hate a lugging engine that's always downshifting.
 
Depends on what locker you want....if you want a Detroit then you'll need an open carrier. ARB is the complete carrier assembly. That ring gear looks thick to me...but I don't see a carrier break listed on that eaton page so Im not sure if theyd have needed a thick gear or not.
 
Is listed as 4.10 and down, also they have listed as street activity no off road. This is clutch type posi, and my understanding they don't do well on ice and snow.
I think the selectable locker is your best bet.

I run my truck all day long 2200-2700 on the hwy, even 3200-3600 for Hills and head winds. You'll be better than I am, mine 33's and .7 od your 35's and .75 od might be a wash.
I have 35's in my future
 
You're gonna need to change the carrier if you wanna go with a Detroit-style locker. Your other option would be an Eaton Tru-trac. It is a more aggressive posi-style unit, but it is helical gear driven with no clutches to wear out. Honestly this may be your best bet- it is a replacement carrier, and upgrade over what you have, will be good on ice/snow, awesome on the street, and very capable off-road if you decide to go that route.

How much lift are you running on the truck again? The only reason I ask is everyone thinks they are going to stick with 35's until the next time they have to buy tires.... and then they buy 37's haha
 
swettysblazer said:
You're gonna need to change the carrier if you wanna go with a Detroit-style locker. Your other option would be an Eaton Tru-trac. It is a more aggressive posi-style unit, but it is helical gear driven with no clutches to wear out. Honestly this may be your best bet- it is a replacement carrier, and upgrade over what you have, will be good on ice/snow, awesome on the street, and very capable off-road if you decide to go that route.

How much lift are you running on the truck again? The only reason I ask is everyone thinks they are going to stick with 35's until the next time they have to buy tires.... and then they buy 37's haha
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I have an ORD custom 4 inch lift
 
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If you end up going with different gears I would consider selling that axle complete for a decent chunk of cash and buying a later model 14 bolt FF with factory disk brakes.
 
I picked up my aam 10.5 with 4:10 gears, open diff, took my detroit from my old 14 bolt fyi, factory disc's with dual piston calipers. And an ebrake lol. All for $250 bucks.

Plus it is as wide as the front axle.
 
ZombieK5 said:
Opened the 14Bolt rearend. Fluid looked the wrong Color but no major metal shavings. There was a sparkle in the fluid but probably because it wasn't changed in awhile.
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Y'all know you can smell these pictures.
 
skunked said:
If you end up going with different gears I would consider selling that axle complete for a decent chunk of cash and buying a later model 14 bolt FF with factory disk brakes.
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Already have the full rear disc conversion ready to go on
 
ZombieK5 said:
Already have the full rear disc conversion ready to go on
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I would still consider selling what you have IF you decide to regear it or put a new carrier in it. You'll have a stronger/better axle with less cash out of pocket.

I like the 4.88's btw
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
I picked up my aam 10.5 with 4:10 gears, open diff, took my detroit from my old 14 bolt fyi, factory disc's with dual piston calipers. And an ebrake lol. All for $250 bucks.

Plus it is as wide as the front axle.
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What about this?

ATK Engines RAXP1957B: Remanufactured Rear Axle Assembly for 1999-2007 Chevy/GMC 2500 Pickup Truck - JEGS

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83ChevyK5Blazer said:
That's the one, mine came from a field tho.
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GM Has a NEW one for $2,969. That almost sounds good too but if the ATK comes with disc rear that would be good too.

Id need to move spring perches....

22888639 - Genuine GM Rear Axle Assembly

GMPartsGiant.com offers the great deal for genuine GM parts, 22888639. Rear Axle Assembly. All parts are backed by the GM's warranty.
www.gmpartsgiant.com www.gmpartsgiant.com
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
I picked up my aam 10.5 with 4:10 gears, open diff, took my detroit from my old 14 bolt fyi, factory disc's with dual piston calipers. And an ebrake lol. All for $250 bucks.

Plus it is as wide as the front axle.
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What yr models are same width as front axle? Mine is a Chevy Dana 60. Is there a GM part # on your casting?
 
If ATK builds axles like they do engines I wouldn’t go that route….one cylinder bored .010, the rest factory, mismatched pistons, etc
 
swettysblazer said:
If you can go that route they are nice. They add some complexity to the install, because then you need onboard air and all that.... another option would be a Yukon Zip Locker. Same kinda setup
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Alright, after talking with a few ppl I decided to keep the axle I have and the carrier.

Gonna swap the 4.88 out for 4.10 gears and replace all Bearings and Seals. I'll put disc brakes and parking brake calipers on the rear.

All the posts helped immeasurably and I appreciate it.
 
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