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14 Bolt Ring Gear Code and Inspection Help Needed

Noooo!!!



The shore is overrated anyhow. :haha:

Just kidding, good luck with what you do! (y)
It was pointed out that I may run into issues with the new engine and 600hp BB and 600ftlb torque. Apparently I may run into Axle wrap and maybe a bent frame. The higher the gear the lower the chance of that happening. 4.10 is a low I'd go. May have to get traction bars regardless BUT I DON'T WANT THEM. It's always something... Cause = effect
 
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It was pointed out that I may run into issues with the new engine and 600hp BB and 600ftlb torque. Apparently I may run into Axle wrap and maybe a bent frame. The higher the gear the lower the chance of that happening. 4.10 is a low I'd go. May have to get traction bars regardless BUT I DON'T WANT THEM. It's always something... Cause = effect
The snowball is down hill and gaining speed, no stopping it now ,lol
 
What is the recommended way to get the Dana 60 King Pin torqued to 600ft lbs w/o actually buy a behemoth torque wrench??

There has to be another way...

Screenshot_20220509-161551_Firefox.jpg
 
I’ve heard some use a cutoff wheel around the shoulder of the kingpin to relieve the pressure on the threads.

if you Dont do a traction bar setup now, with that much power, your springs may suffer a quick demise.

I use the diy4x setup and it works great!
 
I’ve heard some use a cutoff wheel around the shoulder of the kingpin to relieve the pressure on the threads.
I can get them off... It's the 600ft lbs needed to reinstall...

Can you send me some pics of your traction bar set-up? I saw that setup on his website but was unclear on how it would be installed.
 
Just torque them really tight.

Or do the math, 100 lb pull on a 6 ft cheater bar would work, or 60 lbs on a 10 ft, etc...

Or you can buy a torque multiplier and use a smaller torque wrench.

I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a pipe on it. I didn't have a 3/4" drive 7/8" hex socket, so I cut off a short piece of 7/8" hex, stuck that in the king pin, and then used a regular socket. Be careful.
 
Just torque them really tight.

Or do the math, 100 lb pull on a 6 ft cheater bar would work, or 60 lbs on a 10 ft, etc...

Or you can buy a torque multiplier and use a smaller torque wrench.

I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a pipe on it. I didn't have a 3/4" drive 7/8" hex socket, so I cut off a short piece of 7/8" hex, stuck that in the king pin, and then used a regular socket. Be careful.
I have a 200ft lb CDI (Snap On) Torque wrench. Would it still click at 200lbs or would it click at 600lbs with the correct cheater bar?
 
No, to do that you would need a torque multiplier, which are expensive. They use planetary gears to multiply the torque from the torque wrench. Then you would multiply the ratio by the torque reading on the wrench to get output torque from the torque multiplier.

If you just put a cheater bar on a torque wrench it could overload it, don't do it.

Use a large breaker bar if you plan to put the 600 lb-ft on it. I would say at least 3/4" drive, you may have to check the tool rating.
 
Probably just get a 600lb torque wrench. I've seen torque ratings between 550 and 650 required. Not sure I can pull that hard on a 36" long wrench
 
Like this....


or this...

 
I have a 600 ft lbs torque wrench, it’s about 3 feet long and it takes all of me to get it to click at 600….I’d say a 3/4 bar with a piece of pipe would get there but I’d make sure it’s a good bar. I’d be willing to bet half the people that change upper king pins don’t torque them to half of 600….image.jpg
 
I brought a horror freight 3/4 bar, floor jack handle fits over it just right.
I use on vw stuff , for emergency trail repairs, @ half of what you need. But is does seem like a beefy bar
 
Like this....


or this...

Those are impressive and pricey. I was looking at picking up a $300 three-quarter inch torque wrench that could handle 600lbs. it should also come in handy when trying to torque down the Pinon nuts at 250 lbs each.
 
Sounds like a more cost effective approach.

I was just showing options since you mentioned alternatives to buying another torque wrench.

But when the alternatives are either free, or more than the torque wrench, the middle ground appears the way to go.
 
Sounds like a more cost effective approach.

I was just showing options since you mentioned alternatives to buying another torque wrench.

But when the alternatives are either free, or more than the torque wrench, the middle ground appears the way to go.
Don't stop throwing out options. I've found so many beneficial "options" on these threads that I stopped counting.
 
I just put my Allen wrench in it and beat it with a sledgehammer.
CEF47040-5E1F-49D4-A1E3-6F9F1702B3CD.png
 
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