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14 bolt semi float

So the rims are waiting at the shop. Cost me $100 to send them back and order an 8 lug version.

I had already ordered everything to rebuild the front end.

From my understanding I need new different brakes for an 8 lug and a 3/4 ton spindle.

I’ll assume that the 1/2 ton spindle bearings and seals are different?

Appreciate everyone’s input with information. I’m learning a lot about these trucks.

For a street truck with 33’s I should be fine with the stock axles? I’m going to freshen up the rear end with new bearings and replace the yoke with a 10 bolt one. I have the 10 bolt u joints I just purchased also.
 
90GMCJim said:
So the rims are waiting at the shop. Cost me $100 to send them back and order an 8 lug version.

I had already ordered everything to rebuild the front end.

From my understanding I need new different brakes for an 8 lug and a 3/4 ton spindle.

I’ll assume that the 1/2 ton spindle bearings and seals are different?

Appreciate everyone’s input with information. I’m learning a lot about these trucks.

For a street truck with 33’s I should be fine with the stock axles? I’m going to freshen up the rear end with new bearings and replace the yoke with a 10 bolt one. I have the 10 bolt u joints I just purchased also.
Click to expand...
If you have a 10 bolt front, you can reuse the spindle. You just need to match it up with the large bearing, 8 lug stuff.

The minimum you need is a pair of backing plates, 8-lug bearing hubs, rotors, and 9/16 lug studs. Everything else is the same between 6 and 8-lug 10-bolt front axles.

You can tell the difference between small and large bearing 8-lug outers based on the type of locking hub that is used. The large bearing version uses the same locking hub as your 6-lug 10-bolt. The small bearing uses external bolts on an adapter between the locking hub and bearing hub.

With 33s, the stock axles are fine.
 
90GMCJim said:
So the rims are waiting at the shop. Cost me $100 to send them back and order an 8 lug version.
Click to expand...
Good for you. I did the exact conversion years ago, making an 8-lug a 6-lug because I thought I'd be in 15" alloy wheels till the end of time. :surepal:. What I should have done is go 8-lug then and there. Very few drawbacks and the brakes work better. I made rear disc brakes for it, welded the tubes to the center, dropped to 4:88 gears, added an anti-wrap bar and an e-locker, so it's not like I can just go grab another axle to replace it. Now I'm collecting parts to make everything 8-lug, like I should have done in the first place.

I think the hot tickets for these axles are the H2 axle, which comes with 4:10, an e-locker and disc brakes. You have to torch off all the suspension mount stuff, but you could swap the aforementioned goodies to a squarebody housing, if welding is out. The other is the late model "12-bolt", which is the old 14-bolt center section with a bunch of updates, including disc brakes, so it's probably the best 6-lug option.

fourwheelerjeff said:

rotor and hub with studs
Click to expand...
I searched for OEM 8-lug hubs after reading bad reviews on the Raybestos stuff, but I have no personal experience.

The front 8-lug swap is really easy, as you can keep the same spindles, locking hubs, wheel bearings and calipers. All you need are the hubs themselves (with wheel studs, of course), the rotors and the larger backing plate which mounts the caliper further out for the larger rotor. I think there is a difference in the banjo bolt between 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton calipers, but there's no reason to swap the calipers and hoses for the conversion if your parts are good.
 
Blue85 said:
Good for you. I did the exact conversion years ago, making an 8-lug a 6-lug because I thought I'd be in 15" alloy wheels till the end of time. :surepal:. What I should have done is go 8-lug then and there. Very few drawbacks and the brakes work better. I made rear disc brakes for it, welded the tubes to the center, dropped to 4:88 gears, added an anti-wrap bar and an e-locker, so it's not like I can just go grab another axle to replace it. Now I'm collecting parts to make everything 8-lug, like I should have done in the first place.

I think the hot tickets for these axles are the H2 axle, which comes with 4:10, an e-locker and disc brakes. You have to torch off all the suspension mount stuff, but you could swap the aforementioned goodies to a squarebody housing, if welding is out. The other is the late model "12-bolt", which is the old 14-bolt center section with a bunch of updates, including disc brakes, so it's probably the best 6-lug option.


I searched for OEM 8-lug hubs after reading bad reviews on the Raybestos stuff, but I have no personal experience.

The front 8-lug swap is really easy, as you can keep the same spindles, locking hubs, wheel bearings and calipers. All you need are the hubs themselves (with wheel studs, of course), the rotors and the larger backing plate which mounts the caliper further out for the larger rotor. I think there is a difference in the banjo bolt between 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton calipers, but there's no reason to swap the calipers and hoses for the conversion if your parts are good.
Click to expand...
I just looked online for some stock hubs 8 lug. Actually found some that would be free but he wants you to take everything Dana 44 incomplete with another incomplete 10 bolt. That drive would only be 1 hour .

Most of the rotors with hubs have 9/16 studs.
I want to keep the front and rear the same.

I thought about going with wilwood calipers in front. I’m in this deep with the front rebuild what’s another $400 on calipers

I’m going to strip the brakes off the 14 bolt and start cleaning it up. Since I will rebuild I’m debating if getting it powder coated will be better than just painting it myself.

I found some calipers brackets from horsepowersales llc. Brackets, rotors , hubs

Don’t know if this is a dumb question. I have, I’m assuming it’s an open diff in the front. I’m changing the gears to 4.56. Anything wrong with the stock open diff? Is there an aftermarket open diff option?

I’m at the point now where I want to do all of this once and not find out after I had options.

For a street truck are aftermarket front axles overkill?
 
Blue85 said:
I searched for OEM 8-lug hubs after reading bad reviews on the Raybestos stuff, but I have no personal experience.

The front 8-lug swap is really easy, as you can keep the same spindles, locking hubs, wheel bearings and calipers. All you need are the hubs themselves (with wheel studs, of course), the rotors and the larger backing plate which mounts the caliper further out for the larger rotor. I think there is a difference in the banjo bolt between 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton calipers, but there's no reason to swap the calipers and hoses for the conversion if your parts are good.
Click to expand...

that's disheartening; I figured Raybestos was a known brand and would have good stuff.

this is what I found on banjo bolts
10 bolt calipers used 10mm
dana 44 calipers used 7/16
dana 60 calipers used 10mm
 
90GMCJim said:
I just looked online for some stock hubs 8 lug. Actually found some that would be free but he wants you to take everything Dana 44 incomplete with another incomplete 10 bolt. That drive would only be 1 hour .

Most of the rotors with hubs have 9/16 studs.
I want to keep the front and rear the same.

I thought about going with wilwood calipers in front. I’m in this deep with the front rebuild what’s another $400 on calipers

I’m going to strip the brakes off the 14 bolt and start cleaning it up. Since I will rebuild I’m debating if getting it powder coated will be better than just painting it myself.

I found some calipers brackets from horsepowersales llc. Brackets, rotors , hubs

Don’t know if this is a dumb question. I have, I’m assuming it’s an open diff in the front. I’m changing the gears to 4.56. Anything wrong with the stock open diff? Is there an aftermarket open diff option?

I’m at the point now where I want to do all of this once and not find out after I had options.

For a street truck are aftermarket front axles overkill?
Click to expand...

I believe you said your 14SF rear was 8 lug; do you know what year it was originally out of? I have an 84 K20 with a 14SF and it has 9/16 studs.
for free I would grab both
it's your build but I don't think you need the Wilwood calipers; the stock stuff has been working for many years
nothing wrong with an open diff for the front; in fact, might even be preferable since this is just for street
aftermarket axles for your application would be overkill

all this is just my opinion
 
Backing plates are the harder/pricier parts around here. Sounds like you have that handled.

Axle housings take a bit of abuse, even on street trucks, from road debris and such. Powder coating may allow corrosion to start under chips and nicks. A good oil based implement paint is durable, cheap, and easily touched up. Just allow a couple days for it to dry well !
 
Front rotors and hubs for an 8 lug conversion come in @ 9/16-18. Is it better to just install 9/16-18 in the rear also or swap the front to 1/2-20 with the rear aswell?
 
90GMCJim said:
Front rotors and hubs for an 8 lug conversion come in @ 9/16-18. Is it better to just install 9/16-18 in the rear also or swap the front to 1/2-20 with the rear aswell?
Click to expand...

have you checked what studs are on the rear axle? if it is out of an 80s model it should have 9/16 studs.
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
have you checked?
Click to expand...
Haven’t had a chance to. My thread chaser only goes to 1/2.

Just order front hubs for the 8 lug conversion.

All the rear brake conversions come with studs. 9/16.

I’m debating on which backing plate to get.
Horsepowersales LLC. Is $500

eBay-$3-400

Bearings , studs , rotors.
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
that's disheartening; I figured Raybestos was a known brand and would have good stuff.

this is what I found on banjo bolts
10 bolt calipers used 10mm
dana 44 calipers used 7/16
dana 60 calipers used 10mm
Click to expand...

Iirc, that's depending on the year. They went metric in '79? maybe.
 
90GMCJim said:
Haven’t had a chance to. My thread chaser only goes to 1/2.

Just order front hubs for the 8 lug conversion.

All the rear brake conversions come with studs. 9/16.

I’m debating on which backing plate to get.
Horsepowersales LLC. Is $500

eBay-$3-400

Bearings , studs , rotors.
Click to expand...

dammit Jim; this is not the update I am looking for :D
 
90GMCJim said:
I’m debating on which backing plate to get.
Horsepowersales LLC. Is $500

eBay-$3-400
Click to expand...
Yeah, I've seen mostly crazy listings for the restomod/MMTB crowd. You can find a whole 8-lug front axle for those amounts. I'm not likely to pay the eBay prices anytime soon, but I'm still looking.
 
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