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14 Bolt SF 8 lug to 6 lug, easy to change?

thanks for the help. I found this utube video that explains things pretty good. Definitley glad I have someone to help get everything set up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh25DUyCWY8
I replaced mine with an eaton electric locker and 5.13 gears I thought it was pretty easy. You can find a prior post of mine documenting mine. I recommend renting this video. http://smartflix.com/store/video/1356/Differential-Rebuilding

Its a very detailed video that goes through the entire process with a lot of detail.

If you don't have a press you will need to be inventive on how you remove the old bearings. When I did the rear end I bought a bearing removal tool and a sledge hammer to get the bearings off the old pinion. I used some 2.5 inch plumbing pipe to pound the new one on. Save the old bearings and grind out the center so they slip on and off the new pinion. It makes setting up the new gears MUCH easier. All of this is explained in that video.

When I changed the gears in the front axle I just bought a press from harbor frieght for $80 it way easier.
 
I think I can sell my 10 bolt for at least $50-$100. Sweet deal....just hope everything works out now!
I had a hard time giving mine away. Ended up giving it away fro scrap. I saved the posi rear end and installed in a friends buggy.
 
Update:
Over this weekend I finally cleaned everything up and found out the backing plates were bent slightly. I went out to the junkyard and asked if I could go and swap them out for some straight ones and they said no problem. Well, after placing everything back together, I discover that the drum is barely rubbing onto the backing plate (but now quite evenly).

So after looking at Randy’s Ring and Pinion site on axle shafts, I see the 8 lug shaft are anywhere from 1/2” to 1-1/4” longer than the 6 lug shaft. So now, I think I may have to start over and find a complete 6 lug with the correct axle ratio……so frustrating after all that work!!

8 lug - 32-3/4"
8 lug - 32"
6 lug - 31-1/2"
 
Are you sure you can't make it work? Can the backing plate be trimmed a bit? Is it possible there is more than 1 kind of backing plate? Would it throw off the brake shoe alignment to put a small spacer between the axle flange and the drum? You could have the 4-bolt flange on the axle tube ground off and moved inward 1/4" or whatever you need.
 
Are you sure you can't make it work? Can the backing plate be trimmed a bit? Is it possible there is more than 1 kind of backing plate? Would it throw off the brake shoe alignment to put a small spacer between the axle flange and the drum? You could have the 4-bolt flange on the axle tube ground off and moved inward 1/4" or whatever you need.

I think the backing plates are the same. The original, bent ones were touching a little bit but I was contributing that to not being straight. After the new backing plates were installed, I could see that it was not touching (very slightly) all the way around now.

When I look at the axleshaft coming out of the housing right at the seal, it looks like I'm right about at the edge of the shaft before it starts necking out to the studs. Typically I can see where the shaft and outer seal met buy the polished shaft. Now, I don't see any polished shaft and it looks to be further in than what I would call typical.

I suppose a small plate between the hub and the drum would help but I don't think that's the correct way (long term) how to fix this.

Keep in mind, I'm only in $100 in this axle and I actually still have the 8 lug backing plates. Maybe I just get some 8 lug shafts and sell the thing off as a unit and then get a new, completely intacked 6 lug axle. :rolleyes:
 
Did you measure the distance of the backing plates or backing plate mounting points on the donor axle? This should change by the same amount as the axle shaft length change. If you have made the axle slightly narrower than the 6-lug donor, can't you put a thin spacer on the wheel studs between the axle hat and drum to correct this? It sounds like you just need 1/8" on each side?

From comparing axle shafts in the past, it looked to me like the length changes were primarily outside of the bearing/seal surface. Are you saying that different housings had different overall widths or just different WMS?
 
Did you measure the distance of the backing plates or backing plate mounting points on the donor axle? This should change by the same amount as the axle shaft length change. If you have made the axle slightly narrower than the 6-lug donor, can't you put a thin spacer on the wheel studs between the axle hat and drum to correct this? It sounds like you just need 1/8" on each side?

From comparing axle shafts in the past, it looked to me like the length changes were primarily outside of the bearing/seal surface. Are you saying that different housings had different overall widths or just different WMS?

When I get time, I'm going back out there to get some exact measurements. Unfortunately, the donor 6 lug is now gone so can't look at that one specifically. I will have to do some hunting around again.

I measured the axle housing distance only (backing plate mounting face to backing plate mounting face) = 54-1/2"

I think if I use some sort of spacer to kick the drum out a little, I end up losing some thread strength when I mount the wheels. I'm about 1/2" short on each side from what I can figure.

If I get some time tonight, I'll take a few shots to show where everything is at.
 
Tell me about it!!

I'm trying to at least let someone know from all my mistakes.....:waytogo:


Yah get all ur S*** figured out and then let me know how to do it haha. I bought an 8 lug with 4.10s that I want to swap 6 lug shafts and disks onto. Blue 85 did this btw.

You gonna buy that E-Locker? seems sweet but way to much for my broke college boy A$$ hahaha
 
Yah get all ur S*** figured out and then let me know how to do it haha. I bought an 8 lug with 4.10s that I want to swap 6 lug shafts and disks onto. Blue 85 did this btw.

You gonna buy that E-Locker? seems sweet but way to much for my broke college boy A$$ hahaha

Saw you got the 8 lug....I hope that works out for you man! I'll definitely keep screwing up so you can just do everything once! Glad I can help you out..... :thumb:

I don't know if I will get it yet but I did talk with him. Nice guy and it sure would be nice to have..... BUT, I think I got to get the axle thing figured out before buying "accessories". Heck, I still have to weld new perches on, etc so my "FUN" is definitely not over....:woot:


We sure are learning a lot, for sure. I'm also watching the FL guy do his SF swap too. Looks like he is sending it off to weld the new perches and shock tabs. Hope it works out for him too.
 
Yah I saw that thread. If I find a 6 lug I may just get it and redo perches. But this was $100 and 4.10s so i had to do it lol. Im not afraid to cut and weld however :waytogo:
 
Yah I saw that thread. If I find a 6 lug I may just get it and redo perches. But this was $100 and 4.10s so i had to do it lol. Im not afraid to cut and weld however :waytogo:

I can't weld to save my life...... but again, I don't even own a welder. :haha:
 
If you need some measurements I have a 9.5 you can look at It's burried under some other axles.

I had originally bought it for my wifes burban, but we are going to sell it and I may not need a 6 lug SF 14 anymore. I got it apart and it needed bearings, spiders, so I stopped the build.
 
Here is what I have....

DSC_0547-1.jpg


DSC_0548-1.jpg


DSC_0549-1.jpg


DSC_0550-1.jpg


DSC_0551-1.jpg


hub face surface to hub face surface:

DSC_0553-1.jpg


DSC_0557-1.jpg
 
Does it help if I take any measurements from mine? It was an 8-lug that I converted to 6. I can't help much with the alignment of the drums since I'm running disc.
 

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