CK5
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14B disk swap/I'm P!ssed

I am not real concerned with it, i was able to get considerably more than 750 miles out of mine, but it still suprised me that they worn down as quickly as they did.

The trucks stopps pretty goot for it's stance, and the rears will usually only lock up if i am hard braking and trying to slam it around a tighe turn/corner, which i shouldn't be doing anyways :crazy: .

I am quite happy with my setup. :D
 
broc944 said:
Both very good ideas which I will do, I do have a stock prop valve in place, I like the idea of mounting a after market one inside of the cab so I can adjust it on the fly.


Dooood, thats your prob... Thats why I asked that originally...

think about it... How much more pressure you think it takes to operate a wheel cylinder drum setup than calipers? I'd guess stock p-valve percentage is probably 60% rear, 40% front... and when all disc, those #'s should be reversed... First rule of disc brake swap is you need to change the p-valve or add the adjustable...
 
even if I had no front braking what so ever, there is no way the rear would wear out this fast, something else has caused this, I agree with the prop valve issue,but more is goijg on here then that.
 
Seriously I doubt it... Maybe some cheap pads and that is the prob, but I bet your truck would fail a skid test miserably for equalization right now... Backs have gotta be working way harder than the fronts.. Take that thing out and skid test it on clean pavement... I wouldn't put highend pads on it till the p-valve is changed... I'd bet the farm thats the majority of the issue...
 
Thats my game plan, going with some cheap pads, going to ace the stock P valve, ordering a wildwood tonight, play around with the settings and see what happens. Time will tell. But thanks for the time/concern with this, it is greatly appreciated.
 
Yeah, didn't mean to sound harsh or anything... Just pretty convinced thats the prob....

I'll probably go with just adding the wilwood myself.. Quite of few have had good luck with replacing the main one up front with a disc/disc one but I like the idea of some tuning to it if nescessary.... Eventually just having a quality adjustable up front would be best.. maybe if I decide to redo my lines at some point or something...

Just glad I decided to go with the 205 in the garage with my 700, then a driveline e-brake.. I don't care if its more money, I dig the engineering factor and will not have e-brake cables running down there... Actually the price probably breaks pretty even with not having to get the caddy calipers...
 
rear brakes

why is there little springs that pull the factory brake shoes back in to place when you let off the brakes??? because there is always pressure on drum brakes. the fluid will slowly push the calipers to prematurely wear out your rear disk brake pads. get a cadillac 4 wheel disk brake master cylinder i think its of off a 77-79 eldorado. i could be mistaken on application but it will cure your problems and the check valve is built in to the master cylinder :D so no more wear out rear pads
 

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