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1964 Nova Wagon “Plank”

Nova
Overview Gallery Discussion
Would it be helpful to ditch the steel line and jump straight from carb, over the valve cover, and to the fuel pump? Would the rubber line see less heat-soak?

Also going to add this. It’s the heat riser I want to weld closed. I don’t know what it looks like inside the exhaust yet, pulling the intake and exhaust is for another time. Until then, I want to force this closed. I assume, in this picture, it’s cold and the weight is horizontal. So I would want it vertical. Ideally, I would rather plate over the riser opening and run some heat tape between the intake and exhaust. (I imagine, never played with this and looking for headers) Shot of my anti theft/ battery drain combo…valve?

PS> Who the F thought let’s smash the intake and exhaust together, plus share bolts that will definitely work loose, and then run it past a group of “engineers” that also agree. No dammit

I think this is the original engine and trans. Got to be. Never worked on, never removed. Way too dirty to have been out before. Haven’t pulled the valve cover yet though.

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You want the heat riser open. Drop the head pipe and look. You just might be able to remove the butterfly blade.
Don't ever recall seeing a slotted head screw there. See the cast iron seem to cast aluminum that were they get loose. Get a short piece of fuel line slide it over the vent tube. This will keep fuel from spilling out on a steep hill or severe bounce, and flood out. There is a thicker base gasket available, I recommend will help with heat soak. You'll need to remove carb from intake to tighten base, so get the thicker base gasket, @ 1/4"- 3/8" make sure the current studs are long enough.
 
I’ll try to explain what I’ve done and give ya few pics…

The junction block in use bypasses all factory wiring…
1/0 cable from alt to junction block (red highlight)
1/0 battery cable from junction block to battery (red highlight)
#10 & 12 ga from junction block to electric fan control (yellow highlight)
#14 ga from junction block to battery tender plug (green highlight)

original wiring on horn relay as used from factory…
Bottom terminal w two red wires and one black w white stripe…one red from battery terminal on starter to horn relay, other red to ignition switch and several others, b/w to ammeter (inoperable with 1 wire alt).
Top terminal w two red wires…one wire from old alternator, other wire to voltage regulator (both wrapped and tucked away in wire loom for possible future restoration)
side terminal w black and dark green wires….black to horn button, dk grn to horns

voltage regulator removed and the wiring plug to it, wrapped in harness for future restoration

Also a pic of the voltage regulator and horn relay from the 64 C10 I have, and some wiring diagrams for the Vette (GM 1964 service manual)
Also some fuel line heat reflective wrap that works well for me.

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I managed to get the PS pulley off, with key, and swap to the new one. Got my alternator from Summit today. Went to put it in and realized it’s a one groove pulley. Borrowed a puller from AutoZone, made quick work of that. Taught myself how the brackets all go because someone forgot pictures. Went to pick up the PS pump off the floor and found a puddle. What in the heck is going on here. Killed my momentum. Did I miss something? Do these bolts need Teflon sealant or a copper washer? The bracket is wet. WHAT the WHAT?! haha

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Also, is there any reason to try and sell this heater/fan unit? Zero rust and wasn’t leaking.
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When I pulled the heater unit out, this giant hole appeared. I don’t notice air coming in (I taped the firewall hole for now) Where does this go? What happens to this area with a Vintage Air type system?
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Got the new pump in. Ended up with a mid 70s pump, swapped the valve and fitting with the old unit. Seems to work and no leaks (still leaks like a $2 whore at the linkage ram)

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Got the Alt installed and seems to be ok. Wired it best I could. Battery is at 14.5v all the time now, kinda wish it would just hang out around 13.x. Whatever. One thing is I lost my high beams. Right after finishing they stopped working. Haven’t dove into that yet. Only got driver side headlight working, probably should address that first. Oh, and front running lights lol.
 
400-500* for exhaust
~200* intake metal
~180* carb mounting flange
125* inside carb throat

So dumb. What the hell em I supposed to do about that!? :(

I did all I can for the fuel line. Went rubber from the pump and sleeved it. I’m thinking about pulling the exhaust and intake apart. Cutting the exhaust down so it’s not touching the intake and welding a plate over the hole. Looking at the way it all mounts, it’s real janky. I don’t like how it’s “bolted” (more like clamped) to the head. They sell tubular headers for these engine (truck only) but they run near $250. Regardless, they still “clamp” to the head.

Whats the difference between me separating the stock in/out manifolds VS. going to a tubular header? Still ends up hanging off the head the same :(

Also bumped the idle up. Was about 580, went to 700 and played with idle screw. We’ll see. Should help with the studder in the parking lots.
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Also running a convex stick on mirror for the passenger side. OMG what a difference. It doesn’t look out of place, people probably would never notice. I bought a second because I want to shave the glass down to fit INSIDE the mirror housing. Glue it in and it will look clean. (Right now it has a backside and double sided tape)

Anyone shave a mirror before? I’ve scribed and cut them before but I’m talking belt sander and small amounts off the sides :D

Also, side effect of doing the convex mirror. I was able to rotate the mirror head out, got it perfect, and BAM could open the wing window now :D

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K85 Octane said:
When I pulled the heater unit out, this giant hole appeared. I don’t notice air coming in (I taped the firewall hole for now) Where does this go? What happens to this area with a Vintage Air type system?
View attachment 456581
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That hole is the fresh air inlet from the cowl by the looks of it.

As far as the intake and exhaust manifolds go, there isn't much option to do it better. Tubular headers wouldn't retain as much heat for sure. Plus I think there is some stupid type of hot air business going on from the exhaust to the intake you'll eliminate with a tubular header.

However if you want to go down the rabbit hole for a better setup on a GM straight 6 for the intake and exhaust manifold search Wayne Head 302. Wayne was one of those creative types that came out of the war to make cool hot rod parts. The Wayne head is a crossflow design with intake and exhaust ports on opposite sides of the head. Though he only made them for the big 302 inch GMC 6 banger. The heads are super rare and expensive now.

Did the sleeved rubber hose make any difference on the vapor locking? If it did I don't know if I'd mess with the exhaust manifold. If not proceed.
 
I was cruising it on the street the other day and could feel it stumble so I kicked it into neutral when I wasn’t moving and kept it at a higher RPM. Did that at a few stop lights before driving a longer stretch. So I’m positive it’s the exhaust heating the intake. I’m sure the V8 fellas still have some issues but those manifolds are miles away from the exhaust comparatively.

Haven’t had it in stop and go much lately. Don’t mind “testing” so long as I’m near home and the wife can get me. Once it vapor locks, it’s done for hours, which I don’t understand.

And I’d rather not spring for tubular headers, rather just cut and create space between the two stock pieces. I see a benefit of the two pieces holding each other, then the bolts clamping them against the head. If they are separate, like the tube header, it sure feels like it’s going to fall off the head. (I realize tube headers don’t, just feels weird)
 
maybe the muffler is restricted and keeping more than normal heat. Did you get a thicker base gasket ?
Yes there cold weather heat stove is why the exhaust is bolted the manifold. supposed to help the choke open, and atomize the fuel better.
 
Does the truck 235 I6 run the same exhaust as my 230? Found a guy next city over with a set up for sale. $50. Thinking about modifying it and trying. I haven’t found tube headers for a nova yet :(

I’ll look at the link now, thanks
 
ZooMad75 said:
Check this link out: Some good info.

Heat Riser for 250 ci. Straight Six - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Heat Riser for 250 ci. Straight Six The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board
67-72chevytrucks.com
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Yes sir, mine is working exactly as it should. (Surprisingly) The choke seems to move right, though out of adjustment I think, and the heat riser is also working. The weight starts flat and rotates 90* when warm. Kinda cool actually. But the coldest it gets here is 50* and right now it’s 90*. Last week 100*+. I doubt all the degrees in between need the heat riser and I’m sure even in the “closed/warmed” position it’s still heating the intake. I’d honestly rather not have it. I think cutting it down still leaves the auto-choke in place and creates space between the manifolds.

I’m game to find out and I need the vaporlocking to stop. If it fails, pretty easy to find another manifold. @Wes Harden no, I haven’t done a thicker base gasket. Once I pull stuff off, I have new gaskets for it but I doubt it’s a thinker one. Once this comes off, I’m cutting! Hahaha

Next question. If I preheat a ton, will I be able to weld the cast with my MIG? :thinking: Or is this where my plan sucks cause I’ll need someone to TIG this with fancy rod?:haha::doah:
 
I tried running just a convex mirror on the crew cab and the problem I had was judging distance. I could see things, but it was hard to tell how close I was to them, especially in tight quarters.
 
First thing I did with the blazer was glue a convex piece I got from an auto parts store. That helped so much. Then I went to those newer mirrors on the tube doors.

Kinda hoping same thing with the Nova, minus the tube doors and mirrors :D
 
I’d like to thank @Capt Ron and @Wes Harden for helping get wheels to me. Test fitted, got an idea of tires needed, maxed out what current suspension and sheet metal allows. Also ended up finding the color I wanted to do, also OEM. Went with those, still have Ron’s grey ones. May end up powder coating 4 rear wheels in the future. Rears fit the front better with a 3/16” spacer. Maybe. Still thinking.
16x8 made in Japan wheels for late 80s Trans Am/ Firebird.
205/45 Fronts (front “fang” won’t allow any larger diameter. 225/50 are about 1” too tall)
225/50 Rears (these will rub lightly when turning and tilted, droop side. I’m good with it)

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