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1964 Nova Wagon “Plank”

Nova
I understand your path/drive...even though I don't agree with it. Haha... Did you get the hidden fender bolts at the headlight buckets? There are two bolts from the bottom at the end of the core support (inner edge of fender). Those are typically the worst.

For this crazy job you will need an angle finder/digital level and should start at the trans mount. The trans mount (at proper 2" setback) will set your engine position and RH offset. From there, square the engine and set 6° tail drop angle. Then see what you need for engine mounts.

Ugh...I don't think I want to look...


Paul
 
Ugh...I don't think I want to look...
But this is the kinda stuff we do here at CK5. :haha:
And I haven't fabricated in a long while. Looking forward to it with the notes I've been given. Can't wait to bolt on the trans, headers, HEI, and starter and begin fitting.

New wiring to accompany EFI, pump, and gauges..... :zombie8:
 
This tail housing...
What's the through bolt holes for? I plan to run the regular transmission mount underneath but was curious what these optional mounts are for.
:D

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This tail housing...
What's the through bolt holes for? I plan to run the regular transmission mount underneath but was curious what these optional mounts are for.
:D

View attachment 504386
Is that a 700r4?
My diesel van had a bracket bolted on with a 3" thick multi layer disk on it, not sure what it was for but it was there.
 
Yep, 700r4 but the doner is unknown.
Wondering if it's an alternative point to mount the trans or some kind of torque arm. And if so, what vehicle so I can consider....
:D
 
Curious if I made a mistake.
When I installed the intake, I used RTV for the walls and FelPro on the heads. I did NOT use any sealant on the heads or water ports. Cleaned real good and bolted them together. Should I pull apart, replace the gaskets and put sealant around anything?

Thanks :)
 
Ok
I'll run it. Not terrible to pull off if I've got a leak.
Just wondering what my chances of leaking were and if I HAVE TO pull and reseal.

I measured a hundred times and adjusted the oil pump pick up but when priming the engine I can hear thumping or tapping on the pan. Was shooting for 3/16"
 
I wouldn't pull the intake now, I usually just put a smear around the water ports.
3/16” is a bit close for the oil pickup but probably ok. I just put a std. pump in my engine and it said .250-.500, but that is a deep sump and high rpm engine.
 
I saw 3/16 - 3/8" somewhere
When I put the Weiand pan and pick up on, it measured 1" or a smidge more, don't remember. So I turned the tube and kept one bolt in the pump. Assembled and primed with a tool. I'm going to try priming again with the top cap off the priming tool. For shigiggles.

If I still hear the noise, I'll pull the pan :(
 
Did you tack the pickup tube to the pump?
 
I saw 3/16 - 3/8" somewhere
When I put the Weiand pan and pick up on, it measured 1" or a smidge more, don't remember. So I turned the tube and kept one bolt in the pump. Assembled and primed with a tool. I'm going to try priming again with the top cap off the priming tool. For shigiggles.

If I still hear the noise, I'll pull the pan :(

Shoot for 1/2" pan clearance (min 3/8") with the pickup parallel to pan/pan rail. That pickup has a mounting tab to the pump to retain, right? Should never hear any pan bumping (priming or running!).

Paul
 
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Mounting tab, no tack needed.
It definitely has a low, muffled tapping sound that fluctuates with pump speed. I'll look into when I get a second :D
 
$60 aftermarket 2019 Kia Soul E-fan
Just trying what CK5 taught me. Don't need to buy the pricy fancy stuff, OE works pretty damn good. :waytogo: Hope it keeps the 400sb cool. This was never intended to be Plank's engine. This radiator would be perfect for an all aluminum 4 cylinder with boooost. (As @Babaganoosh would say)

Should fit well after some trimming, mounts and some kind of perimeter foam. Even has a bottle I was missing :D

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Mounting tab, no tack needed.
It definitely has a low, muffled tapping sound that fluctuates with pump speed. I'll look into when I get a second :D
So I pulled the pan and checked clearance. Still looks to be 3/16 with the gasket and all. I remounted it and have 3/4" now.

So here the discovery.

(Mind you, when the engine was in Bender, there was no funny sounds just before I pulled it out. I was directly under the engine while running also. )

With the dizzy out and no oil, I can rotate the priming tool smoothly. Once there oil and it gets prime, the funky starts. I pulled the priming tool out and turned it with a long screwdriver. It did not feel smooth and had a "hitch" in any position that could be the source of the noise. BTW: the pick up screen was super clean, now and in Bender. Also, it's a high volume Melling with steel collar.

I stabbed the engine in. I have to keep this train rolling. There is no crossmember under the pan so it's can be removed later. :(
 
New mini starter didn't clear at full upright. It has clocking holes but I'd rather the solenoid stay far away from the headers. Little light grinder work and clears well :D
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KIA fan installed on radiator. If the combo doesn't cool this engine, I'm blaming the radiator. As nice as it is, it's tiny compared to the Blazer's. Only thing it has going for it is HALF the weight as Bender and what...third the tire size? LOL

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And I've got about 5* down on the driveline and .75* down on the pinion. (Front is on stands, rear is on ramps) I ended up caving and found some used factory front engine mounts. Made my own trans crossmember (ran out of welding gas, not painted, so it's cameras shy tonight). At those kind of degrees, there's no fixing this with a simple mount so I tucked the trans up with some room left and made the crossmember. I'll have to shim the axle later but only after it's all on the ground.
 

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