the material its made of is for exhaust . and its for the egr tube to exhaust manifold if you had one.
CK5
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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
That was my first guess but was thinking about it on the drive into work.
Cool
I don't have an EGR or anything going to the exhaust. The new oil pan already has that gasket replaced.
I don't have an EGR or anything going to the exhaust. The new oil pan already has that gasket replaced.
Cool build!
The guy I sure my shop with just bought a 72 to build just like you are doing.
He wants me to help him now that I did my K5.
If I can answer any question on the LS swap just ask.
The guy I sure my shop with just bought a 72 to build just like you are doing.
He wants me to help him now that I did my K5.
If I can answer any question on the LS swap just ask.
Which fitting on the trans is the pressure side for the cooler? Top or bottom?
Measuring for my lines and it makes a big difference if it's going to the top of the radiator or bottom. Got my fuel filter/regulator installed in a good place and measured for those lines. Doing everything in 6an braided hose.
Going for some lunch. Afterwords, if the lazy bug doesn't bite me, I'm gunna tackle the front brake lines and run my rear up front. Here's hoping the line I have is the right length otherwise I'll need to get more. I don't have a flare tool and nobody has them for rent.
Since there is actual weight over the front, I was finally able to install my front swap bar. I say "finally" because this stuff takes up a lot of room in my garage. The rear swaybar is waiting too, but without any weight on it, I can't tell where to drill the holes.
90* in the shade, which I would be happy with if I were working IN the shade
Measuring for my lines and it makes a big difference if it's going to the top of the radiator or bottom. Got my fuel filter/regulator installed in a good place and measured for those lines. Doing everything in 6an braided hose.
Going for some lunch. Afterwords, if the lazy bug doesn't bite me, I'm gunna tackle the front brake lines and run my rear up front. Here's hoping the line I have is the right length otherwise I'll need to get more. I don't have a flare tool and nobody has them for rent.
Since there is actual weight over the front, I was finally able to install my front swap bar. I say "finally" because this stuff takes up a lot of room in my garage. The rear swaybar is waiting too, but without any weight on it, I can't tell where to drill the holes.
90* in the shade, which I would be happy with if I were working IN the shade
I feel you pain, it's 110 degrees and I'm shopping for over priced portable swamp coolers on craigslist.
Looks great though.
Looks great though.
I always forget about Google-ing my question.
Seems (for future reference) the bottom port on a 4L60 is the pressure side. So, it will connect to the bottom of my radiator's trans cooler.
Seems (for future reference) the bottom port on a 4L60 is the pressure side. So, it will connect to the bottom of my radiator's trans cooler.
I hate when I see the bag of Subway cookies and reach for another, only to find out I ate them all already.
WOOT!!
BD Turnkey just finished my harness and computer. Paid for it just now, should be shipped out tomorrow.
Had the cruise control wired in, trans shift pressure increased 10%, E-fan ready, trans pattern stayed factory but for 3.73 gears with 28.8" tires, one wire switch for TOW mode in trans
EDIT: gunna put this here for safe keeping. It's the adapters I ran for the trans cooler line. Worked perfect. 6AN to 1/4 NPSM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640520
BD Turnkey just finished my harness and computer. Paid for it just now, should be shipped out tomorrow.
Had the cruise control wired in, trans shift pressure increased 10%, E-fan ready, trans pattern stayed factory but for 3.73 gears with 28.8" tires, one wire switch for TOW mode in trans
EDIT: gunna put this here for safe keeping. It's the adapters I ran for the trans cooler line. Worked perfect. 6AN to 1/4 NPSM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640520
This is my steering box. It uses a flare style end. I've never dealt with this before, the blazer has the O-ring style. I'm looking to run AN adapters for this but can get them locally when I get my other lines made. Anyone know what this is called?
inverted flare...
perfect
Dammit, could have gotten that from Summit with my last order. I hate forgetting things. Luckily I need some other stuff, of which I can get from a local hose maker. They have brass and steel stuff, which I like more than aluminum (if I have a choice)
Dammit, could have gotten that from Summit with my last order. I hate forgetting things. Luckily I need some other stuff, of which I can get from a local hose maker. They have brass and steel stuff, which I like more than aluminum (if I have a choice)
Yeah, in combination with a Vette servo and accumulator spring/plunger it will!!
But, I probably wont be doing that. My S10 is set up with those and it ROCKS. So maybe down the road, maybe.
But, I probably wont be doing that. My S10 is set up with those and it ROCKS. So maybe down the road, maybe.
Just remembered my engine came out if a hydroboost vehicle. So my pump has an extra nipple and my intake doesn't have a place for a vac line.
The pump fitting I can just cap off, right?
But where do I get my vacuum from for the booster? It's gotta have a spot let over front previous years. Ugg
And the brake lines were a complete fail. There are no directions for the line kit and really, just placing different lines up to see what fits yields nothing but confusion.
I'm beginning to hate CPP. I don't think I'll use them again for any other projects. They couldn't even get the rear line correct, never mind all the other little problems adding up to PITA.
The pump fitting I can just cap off, right?
But where do I get my vacuum from for the booster? It's gotta have a spot let over front previous years. Ugg
And the brake lines were a complete fail. There are no directions for the line kit and really, just placing different lines up to see what fits yields nothing but confusion.
I'm beginning to hate CPP. I don't think I'll use them again for any other projects. They couldn't even get the rear line correct, never mind all the other little problems adding up to PITA.
I trade you the brake booster plug for the vac port plug .
its on the top of the intake at the back .
and yes just cap off extra return port on p/s pump.
pic posted right side lower smaller reg cap is the port for vac brakes. the red cap was installed at junk yard . it will be a black nipple. or in your case a solid plug. and its a quick connect line nylon air lines use these days or shark bite house plumbing fittings . slide the red color back and the plug should come out fairly easy .
its on the top of the intake at the back .
and yes just cap off extra return port on p/s pump.
pic posted right side lower smaller reg cap is the port for vac brakes. the red cap was installed at junk yard . it will be a black nipple. or in your case a solid plug. and its a quick connect line nylon air lines use these days or shark bite house plumbing fittings . slide the red color back and the plug should come out fairly easy .
I did all AN fittings on my power steering set up, It is a PSC set up. They have all the fittings you would need even for the pump.
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Got it out.
Did I read that correctly? You wanna trade fittings? PM me an address if so
yep I did . pm sent. 
Found this bed locally. I've talked to the guy before about it and it sounded a bit rough. I don't remember what the problem was but I'm thinking of checking it out some time during the week.
Wondering however, if the bed floor support is supposed to be missing in the middle like this. Do the cross supports look correct here?
Wondering however, if the bed floor support is supposed to be missing in the middle like this. Do the cross supports look correct here?
